Achieve Smooth, Glowing Skin With AHA Exfoliation

If you’re looking to achieve smooth, supple, radiant skin, exfoliating should form part of your skincare routine. Though your skin naturally sheds dead skin cells every thirty days or so, this process slows down over time, resulting in dry, dull, congested skin, as well as the appearance of enlarged pores, poor skin texture, and uneven skin tone. Exfoliation gives your skin a helping hand, removing the buildup of dead skin cells and revealing smoother, softer, more hydrated skin. For best results, steer clear of granular formulas involving harsh ingredients like walnut shells and microbeads which can damage the skin’s barrier and turn to chemical exfoliation instead; alpha hydroxy acid – or AHA – is a chemical exfoliant which can be utilised by almost any skin type.

Read on for everything you need to know about using AHA in your skincare routine.

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What is AHA?

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid, which are acids derived from sugar cane or other fruit sources (like corn starch, orange, lemon, and beets). Alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid, with the first two being the most commonly used in skincare products. 

“AHAs are water soluble so only work on the skin’s surface. They are generally preferred for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin, due to their ability to enhance natural moisturising factors within skin,” says Desiree Stordahl, Paula’s Choice Senior Research & Education Manager. “AHAs have also been proven effective in reducing the visible signs of sun damage, including crepe-y skin and wrinkles.”

What are the benefits of AHAs?

On the whole, AHAs work to exfoliate, hydrate, and brighten the skin. By exfoliating the skin, AHAs loosen and remove dead skin cells, preventing buildup that causes the appearance of dull skin. This exfoliation process also aids in evening out skin tone, promoting skin cell turnover, reducing pigmentation, stimulating collagen production, and improving the appearance of fine lines. AHAs can also work to shrink the appearance of pores and reduce acne and congestion. 

Which skin types do AHAs suit?

AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid are hydrating, allowing them to be used by all skin types. 

Can you use AHA with retinol and other skincare actives?

“You can absolutely use an AHA alongside retinol; they don’t deactivate one another,” says Desiree Stordahl, adding that “if anything, AHAs actually help retinol work better by removing dead skin, so you get optimal penetration. The same goes for other acids like azelaic acid or ascorbic acid (a.k.a. vitamin C).”

As for BHAs like salicylic acid, Desiree says that “while most people do well with sticking to just one AHA or BHA exfoliant, some people find alternating between both works that much better to reveal [the] skin’s optimal smoothness and healthy tone. If you want to use both, all you need to do is alternate application [using] one in the morning and the other at night, or rotate days.” Alternatively, she suggests using “a product that properly combines AHA and BHA together in one formula.”

How to incorporate AHAs into your skincare routine

Leave-on alpha hydroxy acids should be used after cleansing and toning, before applying any other serums. Additionally, AHAs can cause the skin to be more sensitive to the sun, making it essential to wear a broad spectrum SPF during the day.

The 8 best products with AHA

Try chemical exfoliation with one of these alpha hydroxy acid products.

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Words by Arabella Johnson
Feature image courtesy of Jan Welters for Elle France