Cica In Skincare; The Soothing Eastern Ingredient That’s Here To Stay

Much like turmeric, bakuchiol, and oil pulling, every so often we see a traditional eastern ingredient make its way into western vernacular. Centella asiatica is one such ingredient. Known affectionately as ‘cica’ in the beauty community, the medicinal plant centella asiatica has been found in K-beauty serums, toners, balms, and creams for years, with the western beauty industry now embracing the plant. 

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But what exactly does cica do? And is it worth adopting into your skincare routine? Here’s everything you need to know about centella asiatica. 

What is cica?

Cica is a nickname for centella asiatica, a medicinal plant that predominantly grows in regions of Asia. Centella asiatica goes by several names, including gotu kola, brahmi, Indian pennywort, and tiger grass. The latter is partly what prompted the use of cica on skin, with tigers in India rubbing their wounds against the plant to help their skin heal.

It’s been used in Indian Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine for centuries, with the former likening centella asiatica to ‘a pharmacy in one herb’ for its purported ability to improve cognitive function and decrease stress and anxiety.

While cica is rooted in traditional eastern medicine (and the activities of large felines), it’s also backed up by modern research, with a study undertaken in 2012 finding that centella asiatica extract aids the healing of burns, incicions, and wounds.

Cica, or centella asiatica contains four primary constituents (active ingredients); asiatic acid, madecassic acid, maddecassoside, and asiaticoside, with these constituents possessing anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. Plus, cica is also rich in zinc, selenium, copper, amino acids, fatty acids, and vitamins C, A, B1, and B2.

Benefits of cica or centella asiatica for skin

The beauty of cica is its versatility, with almost everyone being able to benefit from using it. 

At its heart, centella asiatica is a healing plant. Its anti-inflammatory properties work to soothe and heal damaged or impaired skin, particularly in those with eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis. Cica is also high in amino acids, which helps maintain your skin’s hydration levels and reduce water loss. 

Centella asiatica also has some pretty impressive anti-ageing properties, with its high nutrient content working to stimulate collagen production, brighten skin, and improve the appearance of wrinkles and sun spots. 

How to use cica in your skincare routine

Centella asiatica is best used as an adjunctive product, meaning that it complements the rest of your skincare routine. Cica balms and creams can be beneficial when your skin is compromised or feeling particularly sensitive, while cica serums can be used alongside your other serums (think hyaluronic acid and vitamin C) to reduce any redness and strengthen the skin barrier. 

To get the most benefit out of incorporating cica into your skincare routine, look for products that are designed to be left on. Think serums and creams over rinse-off masks and cleansers. 

The best skincare products with centella asiatica 

1. Elizabeth Arden Visible Brightening CicaGlow Concentrate

centella asiatica beauty skincare cica elizabeth arden

The Elizabeth Arden Visible Brightening CicaGlow Concentrate combines centella asiatica with niacinamide, chestnut extract, and vitamin C, making for a triple-action formula that works to lightly exfoliate, brighten, and soothe the skin. This multifaceted formula is the ideal pre-serum product for anyone looking to reduce the appearance of dark spots, improve skin texture, or achieve a radiant complexion.

2. Philosophy Nature In A Jar Cica Complex Recovery Moisturizer

centella asiatica beauty skincare cica complex philosophy

A restoring cream that utilises centella asiatica in conjunction with antioxidant-rich prickly pear and agave extracts as well as moisturising shea butter to restore the skin’s moisture barrier and soothe dryness.

3. Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Serum

centella asiatica beauty skincare cica tiger grass dr jart

Dr. Jart+ is known for its trademark Cicapair complex, which works to provide relief from redness and irritation. A little of this potent serum goes a long way, working to swiftly soothe sensitised skin and repair the skin barrier with consistent use.

4. Kiehl’s Centella Sensitive Cica-Cream 

centella asiatica beauty skincare cica elizabeth arden

Ideal for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin, the Kiehl’s Centella Sensitive Cica-Cream is a fragrance and alcohol-free formula that utilises hydrating panthenol and centella asiatica to soothe inflammation, repair the skin’s moisture barrier, and strengthen the skin.

5. Paula’s Choice Defence Antioxidant Pore Purifier 

centella asiatica beauty skincare paula's choice

This antioxidant-rich protective formula uses centella asiatica in combination with skin-loving ingredients like liquorice, white tea, honeysuckle, niacinamide, and vitamin C, as well as exfoliating salicylic acid to refine pores and defend against daily damage from free radicals.

6. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5

centella asiatica beauty skincare elizabeth arden

A French classic, the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 is a thick balm formula that contains the constituent madecassoside from centella asiatica; an antioxidant that works to protect and revitalise the skin’s surface. Paired with nourishing shea butter, glycerin, panthenol, and La Roche-Posay’s signature thermal spring water, this balm works to repair and restore dry, damaged skin.


Words by T. Angel