In a time where it is restricted and almost impossible, the Saint Laurent SS21 womenswear collection is dedicated to the freedom of movement.
Having departed from the traditional fashion calendar for 2020, the Saint Laurent SS21 womenswear collection took place amongst an infinite desert landscape; a sandy sea of nothingness providing the perfect backdrop for a collection that celebrates the innate desire to dress for oneself.
“I wanted to focus on the essence of things. I think it’s a sign of the times. But I didn’t want anything bleak or heavy. The desert, to me, symbolizes that yearn for serenity, open space, a slower rhythm,” said Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello. “The clothes are also softer, the spirit of the collection is more gentle, stripped back.”
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Dubbed an “invitation for escapism” by Vaccarello, the collection celebrates the female form without constricting it. Everything is cyclical, with the uncertainty of today mirroring the uncertainty of the late ‘60s. Similarly, Saint Laurent SS21 womenswear derives sartorial cues from the era; thick jersey material from the Yves Saint Laurent archives provided a malleable base fabric by which to craft feather-trimmed catsuits, mod dresses that would make Twiggy proud, midi dresses, and zip-up jumpsuits.
Meanwhile, the biker short continued to reign supreme, with a ribbed iteration (featuring a tiny YSL logo) of the comfortable-chic piece worn under leather jackets, with slinky silk shirts and pussybow blouses, and under tweed jackets.
In a sartorial nod to the sign of the times, several looks were pants-free, dressing the Zoom-visible body parts in relaxed shirts and suiting while leaving the bottom half free to luxuriate in lacy, silky intimates styled over sheer tights.
Traditional suiting made way for comfortable tunics and trousers in the aforementioned jersey material, while a distinctly 2020 take on the YSL Le Smoking emerged in the form of waistcoats cut above the belly button and worn alone and cropped tuxedo jackets.
Accompanied by statement making jewellery designed by Claude Lalanne, Saint Laurent SS21 womenswear succeeds in providing a visual escape from our time, while introducing some very wearable new silhouettes and dressing cues.
Watch the Saint Laurent SS21 womenswear show below.
Words by Theo Rosen
