Brewed like a beer and served like a wine, saké occupies a unique space in the world of liquor. Often termed a rice wine, saké is native to Japan and is an important part of the culture of the rising sun; often used in ceremonies and for special occasions. Despite often being lumped into a single category and stripped of its nuance outside of Japan, saké is a complex beverage with multivarious flavour palates. Here, we delve into the world of saké; from what it actually is to the best bottles to try.
What is saké?
Saké is a rice wine native to Japan. Within the country, it is also known as ‘seishu’, ‘osake’, and ‘nihonshu’. While it’s considered a rice wine, the alcohol content in saké is higher than traditional wine, sitting at about 16-18% ABV.
How is saké made?
Saké is traditionally made with water, rice, yeast, and koji; the latter being a type of mould used to ferment soybeans and make alcohol. The rice used is Sakamai, a large grain white rice with a higher starch content than traditional white rice and less protein and fat. The starch content is mostly located in the centre of the rice grain, with the fats and proteins sitting around it.
A process known as polishing sees the outer surface of the rice milled down to expose the central starchy content. The Sakamai rice is usually polished between 30% to 50%, however higher quality saké can see the rice reduced to just a tenth of its starting size. The percentage the rice is milled off is known as ‘seimaibuai’, with the term used to distinguish the grade of the saké. A seimaibuai of 55% means that 45% of the rice has been milled away; so, seimaibuai is the amount of rice remaining after milling. The lower the seimaibuai rate (i.e. the higher the amount of rice milled off), the more delicate, light, and fragrant the resultant saké will be.
After polishing, the rice is washed to remove any powder left behind before being steeped in water. The more the rice has been milled, the faster it will absorb water; so the time it’s steeped depends on the degree the rice has been polished. This can be anywhere from a minute to several hours. Then, the rice is steamed before the bulk of it is cooled to 5°C for use in the fermentation process. The remaining rice is used for making koji rice.
Koji rice is made with yellow koji (Aspergillus oryzae), a mould used in not only saké production, but also to make shōchū and to ferment soybeans to make soy sauce and miso. Yellow koji spores are sprinkled over the steamed rice in a cedar-lined room with high heat and humidity. The koji is kneaded and closely monitored with the process taking 36-28 hours. The resultant sweet and white koji will comprise 25-30% of the rice used in the production of the saké.
Once the koji is ready yeast is added and the mixture is transferred to a tank with chilled spring water and some steamed rice. Some brewers add lactic acid to adjust the acidity, however many traditional tōji (brewmasters) eschew this in favour of older techniques that use bacteria to create lactic acid; this results in saké with more depth of flavour. This yeasty mash is called ‘moto’ which becomes ‘matured moto’ thanks to the koji and yeast which convert the rice starch into glucose and the glucose into alcohol.
The matured moto is transferred to a larger fermentation tank where batches of water, rice, and koji are gradually added before being fermented for three to four weeks. This brew is known as ‘moromi’ and is mixed by hand on a daily basis to promote consistent fermentation.
Once the moromi reaches the desired level of fermentation, neutral alcohol may be added. Higher quality sakés will use only small amounts of neutral alcohol, which can help enhance the flavour and fragrance of the saké. In contrast, cheaper sakés may contain more neutral alcohol than moromi in the final bottling.
The moroni is then filtered through charcoal to separate the liquid from the lees (dead yeast and solid rice particles). The saké is then pasteurised at 60°C (to kill any remaining yeast or bacteria and denature enzymes) — performed by passing through the pipes of a heat exchanger or by immersing the bottles into hot water. Unpasteurised saké has a lighter, fresher, more fragrance profile than its pasteurised counterpart, but is more unstable and must be kept chilled from production to consumption.
At this point, the would have an ABV of over 20%, this is usually watered down to 16-18%.
Grades of saké
As mentioned, the seimaibuai rate of a saké determines its grade.
The lowest grade (i.e. table saké) is ‘Futsushu’ which has a seimaibuai of over 70% (less than 30% of the rice grain removed). This accounts for 75% of saké produced.
‘Tokutei meishoshu’ is premium grade saké with a seimaibuai of under 70%; and accounts for the remaining 25% of saké produced. This category is further divided according to the degree of milling and whether slow fermentation techniques are used.
- Honjozo: seimaibuai of 70-60%. While the lowest grade of tokutei meishoshu, honjozo sakés are light and earthy, with flavours that are delicate yet savoury rather than sweet.
- Ginjo: seimaibuai of 60-51%. Ginjo sakés are brewed slowly at low temperatures to produce aromatic sakés with delicate fruity and floral notes.
- Daiginjo: seimaibuai of 50% or less. The high level of milling results in very fragrant and delicate sakés.
Other saké terms to know
- The ‘junmai’ designation indicates that the saké has no added neutral alcohol, and has been brewed using only rice, water, yeast, and koji. Sakés without this term on the label will have had neutral alcohol added during production.
- ‘Namazake’ refers to saké that has not been pasteurised after fermentation; these sakés tend to be lighter with fresher aromas and are best served (and stored) chilled.
How to serve and drink saké
There are no strict rules surrounding whether to drink your saké chilled, hot, or at room temperature. Typically, cheaper sakés (usually futsushu sakés) are served hot, as heating aids in rounding out the flavour and helping it taste better. That said, even premium sakés can be enjoyed hot should you so please.
However, high-grade saké such as ginjo and daiginjo (and especially Junmai Daiginjo) can be enjoyed chilled thanks to their delicate and fragrant character.
The best bottles of saké to try in 2024
1. Onigoroshi Demon Slayer Junmai
This colourfully named saké has a clean and fruity yet dry character and is made without the addition of any neutral alcohol (hence the ‘junmai’ designation).
Price: $26.40AUD
2. Kizakura S Junmai Daiginjo
With a seimaibuai of 50%, this pure rice saké sits within the premium daiginjo category. Made exclusively from Yamada Nishiki rice, it’s best served chilled to bring out the fruity notes of apple and banana on the palate.
Price: $35.50AUD
3. Honda Shoten Tatsuriki Komenosasayaki Daiginjo YK40/50
This full-bodied saké has a rich mouthfeel with a sweet, fruity palate of ripe melon, with a touch of acidity on the finish.
Price: $123.40AUD
4. Dassai 23 Junmai Daiginjo
A decidedly premium expression, the Dassai 23 Junmai Daiginjo is at the apotheosis of saké brewing. It’s made from Yamada Nishiki polished down to just 23% of its original size and as a result boasts a bouquet of peonies and irises on the nose, with a complex palate of praline, vanilla, and caramel tempered by crisp pear and white florals. With a lengthy finish akin to wine, it’s a saké worth savouring.
Price: $132AUD
5. Ranman Ginjo Reiryo
This ginjo saké comes courtesy of one of the largest saké breweries in Akita. Made from Miyamanishiki rice, it has a fresh, juicy nose of ripe melons and cucumbers with a delicate sweet palate and a dry finish.
Price: $48AUD
6. Kizakura Konteki Junmai Daiginjo
In contrast, the Kizakura Konteki Junmai Daiginjo comes from one of the nation’s smallest breweries and is bottled completely unadulterated. It’s made with Yamada Nishiki rice and boasts a vibrant floral aroma with a palate of crisp honeydew melon and lemon, with a touch of the sweet, herbal character of licorice.
Price: $62.99AUD
7. Hakkaisan Tokubetsu Junmai
Brewed near the Mount Hakkai mountain from which it derives its name, the Hakkaisan Tokubetsu Junmai is a pure and clean expression with crisp, sweet notes that appeal to novices and seasoned saké drinkers alike.
Price: $34.10AUD
8. Isojiman Junmai Daiginjo
Tempering sweet notes of melon, cherry, pear, oatmeal, and apple pie with a welcome hit of umami, the Isojiman Junmai Daiginjo is a bold, nuanced expression that holds its own when paired with more robust fare.
Price: $87AUD
Words by Henry Blake
