Reviving Sydney’s dwindling dining scene is no mean feat, but it looks like SETA Sydney is up for the task. Ensconced within the former Savings Bank, a heritage site on Barrack Street in the Sydney CBD, SETA encapsulates old-world glamour, combining a rich material palette with architectural grandeur. However, a beautiful facade isn’t enough; fortunately, the food matches its lofty surroundings.
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‘Seta’ is the Italian word for silk, which is also an apt way to describe the SETA Sydney experience. From the veritable army of capable wait staff who deliver unimposing service while simultaneously preventing your glass from emptying for a mere moment to the culinary journey seamlessly mapped out by executive chef Giovanni Astolfoni, everything at SETA is positively…silky.
Boasting a meticulously-crafted, contemporary Italian menu, the food at SETA is unlike any other Italian restaurant in Sydney. Showcasing the multifaceted culinary offerings of Italy, SETA marries traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine with complex techniques and premium Australian produce.
An important, yet often overlooked, facet of any Italian restaurant is their bread. At SETA, a basket comes overflowing with golden focaccia (a specialty of Astolfoni’s), two types of sourdough, and slender breadsticks, all served alongside three types of butter (including a particularly delectable truffle variety) and a saucer of olive oil and dipping salts. And thus, the unofficial bread test is passed with flying colours.
To whet the appetite, cicchetti comes in the form of an egg containing stracciatella, burnt onion, and pecorino foam whirled together. Closely following is a kingfish sashimi; delicately sliced and enhanced with a fragrant citrus mix of grapefruit and lemon as well as black garlic, and topped with baby turnip, it’s quite possibly one of the best in Sydney, with each bite delivering a nuanced flavour palette.
At SETA, pasta is an unmissable event, with the undoubtable star of the menu being the tortelli cacio e pepe. Lightweight, hand-rolled dough encases a filling of parmigiano and pecorino, enlivened by a hint of black pepper. A topping of apple and a hint of horseradish add an element of sweetness, with each morsel bursting in your mouth.
A cime di rapa risotto emerges in all its vibrant verdant glory, adorned with black garlic and bubbles of grapefruit gel that remain intact until you bite into them. Risotto is often done but rarely done right, however SETA strikes the right balance between creaminess and a gentle acidity, with rice that’s tender and glossy yet still retains its bite.
Dessert is a contemporary take on a tiramisu; break open a paper-thin sheet of wafer to find a sponge infused with three flavours of roast coffee beans, surrounded by mascarpone and chocolate cream.
Elegant, opulent, and glamorous, SETA Sydney successfully delivers a luxurious escape from the quotidian, making for the ideal long lunch spot (though we guarantee you won’t want to return to the office afterwards!).
Words by AR Staff
