While endless stacks of dainty jewellery have reigned supreme for the better half of the past decade, the tides are turning in favour of chunky statement jewellery. Formerly exclusively chattel of the upper class, signet rings have been liberated from their class origins and have become part of contemporary mainstream fashion. Worn on the pinky, the signet ring is a gender neutral jewellery item, working equally as well on men (the original wearers of the style) as it does on women.
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While it’s sported on the littlest finger, the signet ring arguably offers the most opportunity for self expression; in ancient times they were emblazoned with the wearer’s coat of arms and used to sign letters and documents by pressing the ring onto wax seals—hence the name, the etymology of which stems from Latin word signum, meaning signature. Today, many members of the upper class with aristocratic heritage still sport signet rings to showcase their lineage, while others use them as a canvas to display their star sign.
The democratisation of signet rings means you needn’t have a family crest or insignia to wear one — though if you do, might we suggest looking to yesteryear and sealing your bills with stamped wax seals? There’s a certain charm to wearing a signet ring, with the piece not only adding a touch of style and flair to your look, but also revealing a touch of nuance about its wearer.
The best signet rings to buy in 2024
Due to their inherently personal nature, signet rings were originally made bespoke for their wearer by a jeweller. If you’re looking to create a one-of-a-kind heirloom piece to be passed down through generations, you may wish to do the same. However, for those devoid of family crests and fraternal ties, there are many viable ready to wear options. And not being bespoke doesn’t preclude a signet ring from being personal — several jewellery brands offer signet rings with star sign constellations, birthstones, and custom engraving. Plus, the more you wear a piece of jewellery, the more you feel connected to it.
Herewith, our favourite signet rings for men and women.
1. Pascal Prism Chroma Artdeco Signet Ring
Pairing coloured enamel with gold vermeil on sterling silver and featuring faceted coloured glass accented by lab-grown diamonds, this Art Deco-inspired signet ring speaks to the art of adornment.
Price: $151AUD
2. Cece Skeleton Lovers Ring
Drawing upon folklore and fairytales, Cece designs see precious metals adorned with diamonds and champlevé enamel. The Skeleton Lovers Ring is the ideal gift to a loved one, symbolising a bond that not even death can sever.
Price: $5957AUD
3. Miansai Divini Ring
Symbolic of the ongoing search for divinity, the Miansai Divini Ring pairs sterling silver with engraved blue enamel.
Price: $265AUD
4. Bernard James GSR-01 Signet Ring
Simple yet impactful, the Bernard James GSR-01 Signet Ring can be made in a stone of your choice (emerald, ruby, or blue sapphire), with its sleek silhouette and brushed finish working to keep the gemstone the centre of attention.
Price: $8367AUD
5. Cleopatra’s Bling Alfonso Ring
Adapting eastern aesthetics for western tastes, Melbourne-based jewellery brand Cleopatra’s Bling has several pieces that take on a traditional aesthetic, with their hammered finish bestowing them with an ancient effect. Prices span from the low three figures to four figures (depending on whether you opt for gold-plated, gold vermeil, or solid gold). The Cleopatra’s Bling Alfonso Ring is a chunky style that features an engraving of a dog in a naîve art style, set with green hybrid stones.
Price: $209AUD
6. Monica Vinader Signature Signet Ring
Customise this handcrafted gold vermeil signet ring with a meaningful engraving (or even your initials!) to make it more special.
Price: $175AUD
7. Seb Brown Pink Spazio Ring
Australian unisex jewellery brand Seb Brown is known for its ‘undone’ gem placement, with the Pink Spazio Ring encapsulating the brand’s style. Each piece is unique, with bespoke options available; this one sees pink sapphires, rubies, and white diamonds set in recycled yellow gold.
Price: $3250AUD
8. 42 Suns White Gold Pink Sapphire Signet Ring
Crafted from white gold, this chunky signet ring is an undeniable statement piece. Adorned with a striking emerald-cut pink sapphire surrounded by a bevelled edge, it’s a contemporary heirloom in the making.
Price: approx. $7018AUD
9. Arms Of Eve Amira Gold & Pearl Ring
A feminine take on the traditionally masculine style, the Arms Of Eve Amira Gold & Pearl Ring is a minimalist style that sees a gold-plated ring accented with an oval mother-of-pearl.
Price: $95AUD
10. Sarah & Sebastian Azure Signet Ring
A dozen blue marquise topaz stones envelop one side of this gold signet ring by Australian jewellery brand Sarah & Sebastian. One for those who aren’t afraid of a little embellishment, this statement piece adds gravitas to even the most pared-back looks.
Price: $1795AUD
11. Natalie Marie Jewellery Aine Signet Ring
Available in rose, yellow, or white gold, the Natalie Marie Jewellery Aine Signet Ring offers a contemporary take on the heritage style. The clean silhouette features six precious coloured gemstones and represents a more streamlined interpretation of the historically chunky ring.
Price: $2300AUD
History of the signet ring
Signet rings may be trending now but they’re far from new, having been worn since 3500 BC. The earliest signet rings were evolutions of seals, which were used by the kings and pharaohs of Mesopotamia to sign and authenticate legal documents and came out of taking miniaturised versions of the cylindrical seal and fastening it to a wire to wear around the finger for portability and ease of use.
While they were still primarily used as seals, the Hellenistic period in Greece and the Early Roman Republic saw signet rings take on a more decorative tone, with jewellers crating rings that were not only functional but beautiful, working to symbolist the wealth and power of their wearers.
By the Middle Ages, signet rings were commonplace for the nobility. In Britain, it was King Edward II who was seminal in popularising the piece for men. In the fourteenth century, he decreed that all official documents must be signed with the King’s signet ring, with most of the rings from these periods destroyed upon the death of their owners to prevent forged documents.
As signatures began to surpass signet ring stamping as the primary method of verifying and authenticating documents, the aestheticism of signet rings increased in proportion to the decline of their functionality. Ornate, bejewelled signet rings became popular during the Victorian era, with many of the designs of this time setting the tone for the signet rings of today. While several designs still featured a family’s coat of arms, signet rings engraved with initials or monograms were also becoming popular.
During the 20th century, signet rings remained popular with not only the British upper class, but upwardly mobile men desirous of fitting into high society. They were also often used by certain clubs, fraternities, and institutions as a token of membership or a gift upon a certain achievement, something that’s carried through to the present day.
How to wear a signet ring
A signet ring is typically worn on the pinky finger of your non-dominant hand. However, some people choose to wear it on the pinky finger of their right hand, to avoid it potentially clashing with their wedding ring. Traditionalists will say the pinky is the only viable finger to wear a signet ring on, however most will concede that the rules have relaxed, opening up the ring and middle fingers for consideration (particularly if you have more slender fingers and find it difficult to find styles that fit your littlest finger). We’d still advice against wearing a signet ring on your index finger or thumb though.
When it comes to signet rings, less is more. While daintier styles lend themselves to stacking, avoid wearing any other rings on the same finger as your signet ring. When selecting a signet ring, choose one that matches the proportion of your hands. Smaller hands are better suited to oval or circular bezels, while larger hands can pull off more chunky pieces with squared-off bezels.
Signet rings in popular culture
Their upper class connotations have made signet rings a popular subtle wealth signifier on the silver screen. Much like Connell Waldron’s chain in Normal People created a frenzy around the humble silver neck adornment, the recently released television remake of One Day has seen the signet ring propelled to similar status. Dexter, portrayed by Leo Woodall, sports a silver signet ring on his pinky finger — an apt embellishment given how his upper class upbringing influences the plotline.
On the other hand, Farleigh in Saltburn has a more tenuous relationship with the upper echelons, relying on the benevolence of his more aristocratic relatives. His signet ring may perhaps represent a desire to fit in with his fellow students at Oxford University. In The Talented Mr. Ripley, the eponymous character admires the signet ring worn by rich playboy Dickie Greenleaf.
Words by Theo Rosen
