The Rugby Shirt Is The Ideal Transseasonal Wardrobe Staple

The archetypal rugby shirt is reflective of the duality of man. Reconciling the rugged, often somewhat violent nature of rugby with its preppy, upper class origins, the rugby shirt is hardwearing enough to withstand 80 minutes of scrapping yet, thanks to its collar and ribbed cuffs, doesn’t look out of place worn under a blazer. 

Prior to the 20th century, dedicated sporting clothing was exclusively chattel for the upper class. While sport as a whole was not restricted to a singular class, most people who wanted to engage in outdoor activities or team sports would simply wear their old clothes. The variant of football we now know as rugby was thought to have emerged at the Rugby School in the East Midlands of England around 1845. 

In the early days of the sport, players would wear flannel shirts, caps, and trousers, with some participants even donning monocles. However, it was quickly discovered that these articles were not well equipped for the rough nature of the sport, with the flannel shirts later replaced with collared wool sweaters. In turn, players found that wool sweaters were too hot and itchy to wear for the duration of the game; in the early 20th century, rugby jumpers were cut from thick cotton which was able to withstand the inevitable tackles and scrums of the sport. 

These jumpers featured a rigid collar and placket rubber buttons, with the cotton fabrication making it easier for teams to select coloured jumpers. As the sport grew in popularity, more rugby clubs emerged which made it difficult for teams to find original colours. As a result, several rugby clubs introduced two-tone shirts which featured horizontal stripes (known as ‘hoops’) of alternating colours. With the rise of preppy style during the mid 20th century, rugby shirts became a sartorial staple off the field, initially worn by British private school and university students to show support for their home team before trickling over to the United States and further abroad. Today, the rugby shirt has more connotations with Americana than Britannia, thanks to heritage brands like Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, and L.L.Bean making the style a core part of their offerings. 

While it’s of the same preppy ilk as the polo shirt, the rugby shirt has a decidedly tougher, edgier feel which can perhaps be equally attributed to its sturdier make as the physical contact element of the sport that led to its creation. And while actual rugby players now sport lightweight short-sleeved jerseys made of synthetic blends, the quintessential rugby shirt retains its appeal.

Its heavyweight cotton fabrication and long sleeves make it the ideal autumnal wardrobe staple, while its collar allows it to be dressed up or down. Pair with dark denim and sneakers for something casual or go rogue and throw it under a suit and round off the look with a pair of loafers for a relaxed take on smart casual attire. 

Keen to enter the scrum? These are the best rugby shirts to sport this autumn. 

1. Brooks Brothers Cotton Colour-Block Rugby

2. Drake’s Cotton Rugby Shirt

3. Gazman Multi Stripe Rugby Jumper

4. Rowing Blazers Croquet Stripe Rugby

5. Todd Snyder x Champion Relaxed Fleece Rugby

6. J. Crew Rugby Shirt

7. Ralph Lauren Classic Fit Striped Jersey Rugby Shirt

8. Carhartt WIP Cord Rugby Shirt

9. Gant Shield Barstripe Heavy Rugger

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Feature image courtesy of Drake’s
Words by John Deckard