Despite some contemporary sartorialists extolling the virtues of the sneaker, here at Albert Review we believe there’s a time and place for everything. Luxury trainers may continue to reign over the street style set, however, there’s no denying that a good suit needs a pair of proper dress shoes. Though we may have taken a step back from the tightlaced nature of corporate dressing, there are still occasions that exude a certain gravitas, requiring you to don a pair of smart dress shoes; weddings and funerals, for example. Plus, much like chunky sneakers can make a formal outfit appear relaxed, classic dress shoes possess the ability to elevate your more casual gear into smart casual territory.
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Unlike oft-hyped sneakers, investing in quality dress shoes will last you several years (or even decades if you really level up) rather than months, and set you up for any occasion. To help you invest wisely, these are the 6 key men’s dress shoe styles you need to know about.
1. Oxfords
The pièce de résistance to any dress shoe wardrobe, if you only buy one pair of dress shoes in your life, let them be oxfords. The most formal dress shoe style, oxford shoes are pretty much the only shoe style that is traditionally acceptable with a tux. Oxfords are characterised by their closed lacing system; wherein the vamp is stitched over the quarters, making for a cleaner, and thereby more formal appearance. Their sleek appearance makes for the pinnacle in formal wear, however, if you want to tone it down a little, opt for a cap toe variety.
2. Derbies
A step down on the formal spectrum from oxfords, a good pair of derbies are a versatile addition to your dress shoe arsenal. Derbies can be differentiated from their more formal cousin – the oxford – by their open lacing system, with the leather on the quarters sewn onto the vamp and thus visible outside the shoe. Their slightly heftier silhouette makes derbies suitable for wear with jeans and trousers as well as more formal tailoring (just not a tux!).
3. Brogues
Unlike its predecessors in this article, the term brogues refers to the detailed perforations adorning a shoe, rather than the silhouette itself. Born out of a functional necessity to let water drain out of the shoes when traversing through wet environments, the perforations on brogues are now purely decorative. While brogueing can technically be done on any shoe style, brogues are typically found on closed shoe styles like oxfords, derbies, monk straps, and occasionally boots. Applying the concept that the cleanness of the silhouette directly corresponds with the formality of a shoe (i.e. oxfords as the pinnacle of formality), the more brogueing a shoe has, the less dressy it is.
4. Loafers
Gone are the days when loafers were considered too casual to pair with tailoring. Distinguished by their lack of laces or buckles, slip-on application, and moc-toe construction, loafers can be either casual or dressy. To sit neatly in the formal category, opt for loafers in darker colours (think black and chocolate brown) and opt for plain, penny, or horsebit loafer variations. Oh, and never go sockless.
5. Monk straps
While religious devotees may not be a typical source of sartorial inspiration (although the Heavenly Bodies Met Gala may have changed that), monk strap shoes are a tasteful addition to any men’s dress shoe collection. More statement-making than oxfords or derbies but less louche than loafers, monk strap shoes are a lace-free style closed by a leather strap and metal buckle sitting on the upper section of the shoe. Monk shoes come in one, two, and three-strapped varieties, with the double monk being an AR favourite.
6. Dress boots
Put the chunky hiking and combat styles away, they’re not welcome here. While the aforementioned styles provide an interesting utilitarian contrast to suiting, a good pair of dress boots slips seamlessly into your formalwear roster, making for a slightly more relaxed alternative to oxfords or derbies. When pairing boots with a suit, stick to streamlined silhouettes without too much detailing, opt for leather in darker shades, and place an increased emphasis on quality construction and craftsmanship.
Words by John Deckard
