Stealth wealth is far from a new concept, with its prevalence directly proportional to the state of the economy. During the last global financial crisis in 2008, excessive displays of wealth fell out of style, with Birken-buyers resorting to concealing their signature orange Hermès carry bags within innocuous brown paper bags. A response to the overt logomania of the early 2000s — think monogrammed Louis Vuitton bags and velour Juicy Couture tracksuits —, minimalist style emerged as an antidote to excess, with Pheobe Philo’s Céline and Jil Sander helming the pack.
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While minimalism has enjoyed a long run over the past decade, as the economy picked up, so did our penchants towards displays of excess. Logo-laden attire and loud prints from the likes of Gucci, Versace, and Fendi made their way back to the forefront, with brands embracing over-the-top design. Now, with much of the world preparing to enter the great recession of the 21st century, it may just be time for stealth wealth to shine (or rather, not shine) again.
Founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in 2006, The Row has carved out a space for itself for its quiet approach to luxury, becoming the millennial answer to old money icons Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piano. The American fashion label first delved into menswear in 2018, with The Row Spring 2023 defined by the brand’s signature approach to contemporary minimalism.
Strikingly understated, there’s an emphasis on tailored workwear and everyday essentials. Pared-back imagery depicts models roaming the streets of Paris clad in knit short sleeve shirts and impeccably pressed pleated pants; lightweight overcoats and leather trench coats; white t-shirts peeking out from behind button-down shirts; oversized suiting; and cosy cable-knit sweaters. Carefully considered fabrics and design elements contribute to a collection that is simultaneously elegant enough to wear to a formal workplace yet wouldn’t feel out of place at your local cafe.
A rejection of logomania and fleeting trends, The Row’s approach to essentialism just might form the basis for the uniform of the next decade. Even if most of us can’t afford the pieces they’re selling.
Words by Theo Rosen
