The Chanel SS22 Haute Couture show got off to a galloping start, with Chanel brand ambassador and longtime muse Charlotte Casiraghi opening the show on horseback, clad in riding boots (how practical!) and a black tweed jacket adorned with sequins.
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“The idea for the show’s décor came from a longstanding desire to work with Xavier Veilhan. His references to constructivism remind me of those of Karl Lagerfeld,” said Virginie Viard, creative director at Chanel. “I like this similarity of spirit between us, now and across time. In addition to creating the show décor with its references to the avant-gardes of the 1920s and 1930s, Xavier wanted to work with Charlotte Casiraghi. His artistic universe is full of horses and Charlotte is a skilled rider.”
A collaborative effort between Viard and French artist Xavier Veilhan, the set for Chanel SS22 Haute Couture reimagined a show jumping course through a surreal, geometric installation piece created by Veilhan. “These geometric shapes made me want contrasts, a great lightness and a lot of freshness,” explained Viard. “Ethereal dresses that float as if suspended. Lots of flounces, fringes, macramé, bright lace, iridescent tweeds, colourful jewelled buttons.”
Viard takes on Chanel codes from key eras, with two-toned Mary Janes from the 1980s and 1920s drop-waist dresses. Delicate gowns are enhanced by Chanel icons like the camellia flower print, while the French fashion house’s signature boucle features heavily, shown almost exclusively for the first third of the show. Geometric embroidery was woven across eveningwear, with tweed jackets paired with sheer embroidered gowns and shimmery brassieres laced with glittery sequins that extended out into sheer bustiers.
While Chanel SS22 Haute Couture was naturally infused with touches of late creative director Karl Lagerfeld, it also felt unmistakably Gabrielle Chanel. By utilising defining silhouettes and key house codes, the French fashion house returns to what makes Chanel, well…Chanel.
Words by Arabella Johnson
