Earlier this month, Central Saint Martins graduate Nensi Dojaka was awarded the 2021 LVMH Prize for Young Designers. Now, the London-based Albanian designer has made her solo runway debut for London Fashion Week. With a fresh take on dressing that seems apt for the times, Nensi Dojaka Spring 2022 artfully showcases the female form through an elevated take on exposure and concealment.
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“I love female bodies, collarbones, the back,” Dojaka told the LVMH jury. “That’s why I do it.” Though Dojaka’s sheer bodysuits and little black dresses have become infamous thanks to the likes of Bella Hadid and fellow Albanians Rita Ora and Dua Lipa, Nensi Dojaka Spring 2022 recognised the designer’s vision in full force, taking a sophisticated approach to the skin-baring season we’re all rearing to get into post-lockdown. Rouleau straps as dainty as spider webs string together teeny geometric bra cups; touches of georgette delicately expose the skin; high waisted tapered trousers are balanced out with crops tops; and tailored jackets get the deconstructed treatment, with sleeves tied on with ribbons.
Seamlessly merging a lingerie aesthetic with ready-to-wear, the Nensi Dojaka Spring 2022 saw the designer introduce a little colour to her signature black hues. Shades of pink, red, and sandstone feature throughout, adding a welcome sense of fragility that balances out the overt sexiness of the collection. While her distinctive tailoring and finely executed gossamer-thin straps speak to Dojaka’s attention to detail, it’s perhaps most evident in her hosiery; both the opening and penultimate looks of the collection took an asymmetrical turn, with one stockinged leg featuring a cut out inhabited by a three-petaled flower. Wolford could never.
Words by Esmé Duggan