Joyfully unconventional, Schiaparelli Fall/Winter Haute Couture 22/23 is all in the detail.
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“All of us who work in fashion know that much of the rest of the world thinks that what we do is silly,” writes Daniel Roseberry, creative director of Schiaparelli. “It’s a boring criticism, and we all argue otherwise, but if you think about it, fashion is silly at times. It’s also provocative, upending, challenging, and meaningful. It’s breathtaking. It’s beautiful.”
Shunning self-seriousness and political statements in favour of ‘creative innocence’, Roseberry taps into what makes fashion hopeful and beautiful for Schiaparelli Fall/Winter Haute Couture 22/23. “I always talk about trying to achieve that state of creative innocence,” says Roseberry, “of fighting to stay close to that person who fell in love with fashion and its possibilities, of not succumbing to cynicism or world-weariness.”
Proposing the idea that beauty itself is laden with meaning, Schiaparelli Fall/Winter Haute Couture 22/23 is partially influenced by the way founder and visionary Elsa Schiaparelli dressed. Rigorous tailoring is employed to create avant-garde pieces. Taking on a body-conscious tone, necklines plunge past the navel while corsets and bodices cinch and secure waistlines. Garments are built around bodices, though for some pieces, breast coverage is deemed wholly unnecessary.
Wide-brimmed hats by milliner Stephen Jones subtly sheath the top half of models’ faces. Simple yet meticulous in their construction, they’re beautiful enough to elicit tears, paired with some of the more skin-exposing outfits to create sartorial harmony.
Words by AR Staff
