Sublimating the often complicated world of horology back to its component parts, the latest Grand Seiko release pays tribute to the history of Japanese watchmaking. Marking 110 years since the release of the first Japanese wristwatch — the Seiko Laurel, created by the manufacturer’s founder Kintaro Hattori in 1913 — the Grand Seiko SBGW295 is elegant in its restraint.
The well-proportioned 38mm case combines vintage aesthetics with contemporary materials, with the case taking form in brilliant hard titanium while recreating the profile of the first Grand Seiko timepiece, released in 1960. Emblematic of the Japanese approach to craftsmanship, the Grand Seiko SBGW295 features a deep black urushi lacquer dial, achieved through the addition of iron. A traditional Japanese craft, urushi can be traced back to Japan’s Jomon Period (13,100 BCE-400 BCE) and was originally used for its antiseptic and preservative qualities; today, it’s employed for its understated yet refined aesthetic.
The black lacquer dial is complemented by maki-e hour markers, brought to life by urushi master Isshu Tamura. The markers and Grand Seiko name are built up layer by layer through the application of lacquer, resulting in a three-dimensional profile. Then, 24-karat gold powder is applied and polished with extreme precision using artisanal tools.
As a recreation of the first Grand Seiko timepiece, the Grand Seiko SBGW295 features a curved dial and Grand Seiko lettering that remain faithful to the 1960 iteration. In line with the vintage appeal is a manually wound movement, the calibre 9S64 which has a power reserve of 72 hours and is visible through the exhibition caseback.
Presented on a black leather strap, the Grand Seiko SBGW295 is limited to just 500 pieces. Priced at $19,950AUD, it’s available via the Grand Seiko webstore and physical boutiques.
Words by John Deckard