The trouble with modern dive watches is that most of them tend to look…well, Rolexy. While the stringent requirements of what constitutes a dive watch certainly contribute to similarities across the board, there’s no denying the sheer volume of timepieces that resemble Submariner knock-offs, albeit with different branding. The Crown itself boldly — but accurately — refers to the Submariner as “the reference among divers’ watches.” So, it’s always nice when something new enters the chat.

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The Breitling SuperOcean isn’t new new; it’s been around since 1957. However, the Swiss brand has been on a roll resurrecting old classics, from the Navitimer to the Super AVI, with each reimagined timepiece exuding retro appeal with a modern spin. With the skies taken care of, Breitling has turned to the sea. 

The early Brietling SuperOcean strove to eliminate superfluous design, introducing a high-contrast ring to the minutes scale and swapping delicate indices for chunky luminescent batons to increase legibility. Most notably of all, they did away with the seconds hand altogether (on the basis that divers didn’t really need it), creating a minutes-based chronograph termed the ‘Slow Motion’ as it took an hour to make a full rotation of the dial.

Now, the new Breitling SuperOcean harks back to the simplified tool watch philosophy of the Slow Motion. Though the seconds hand has returned, there are several key design details that nod to the original.

 “There’s a certain sameness to the look of most dive watches, but the Slow Motion always stood out from the crowd,” said Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “We’re so pleased to introduce our modern take on this classic, the all-new SuperOcean.”

And stand out it does. Available in four case sizes, 36mm, 42mm, 44mm, and 46mm, each SuperOcean takes on a colourful dial. This is no small release, with a slew of dials in black, navy, aquamarine, green, brown, white, and orange coupled with the range of sizes released ensuring there’s a SuperOcean for everyone. Cases are rendered in steel, steel-gold, and bronze, with the latter developing a charming patina over time while being resistant to corrosion. 

Water resistant to 300m, the revamped SuperOcean features broad hands and indexes, with the Slow Motion’s distinctive square minute hand making a comeback. The dial is framed by a minute track in a complementary colour (either white or bronze), while the bezel is executed in scatchproof ceramic. The bezel is unidirectional on the smaller sizes, with a bidirectional version on the 46mm. Each watch comes with either a sporty rubber strap or three link metal strap, each with a folding clasp that allows for microadjustments of up to 15mm to account for wear over rashies and dive suits. 

Each Breitling SuperOcean is fitted with the Breitling Calibre 17 movement, which comes with a 38-hour power reserve. With a generous array of styles available, it’s sure to be a hit with those looking for a dive watch with a difference. 

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Words by John Deckard