If you’re on TikTok, you’ve already heard of skin cycling. If you’re not on TikTok, you’ve still likely heard of skin cycling, as the insidious nature of the social media platform means pretty much every fleeting trend makes its way into the mainstream news cycle. But, I digress.
The latest trend to go viral, ‘skin cycling’ is a term coined by dermatologist New York-based Dr. Whitney Bowe, who developed a four-night skincare schedule that sees you rotate your active skincare ingredients. Each four-night cycle entails one night of exfoliation followed by one night of retinol and two recovery nights. The thing is, if you’re using active skincare products and have a decent skincare routine, you’re likely already skin cycling in some form (perhaps without terming it as such) — nobody wants to burn their face off with hardcore exfoliation and retinol on a single night.
However, the structured nature of skin cycling certainly makes it easier to implement a consistent skincare routine and can be beneficial for those who are new to using active ingredients. Here’s how to skin cycle.
Every morning & night: Cleanse
As skin cycling encompasses active ingredients in the form of exfoliating acids and retinoids, it’s best to stick to a gentle cleanser. Avoid cleansers with AHAs or BHA and opt for gentle, non-foaming formulas. Generally, oil, cream, balm, or lotion formulas are gentler on the skin than gel iterations, however, there are exceptions to the rule. Notable soothing gel cleansers include the Fresh Soy Face Cleanser and Alpha-H Triple Action Cleanser. For those who enjoy creamier formulas, the Vela Days Oil-to-Milk Face Cleanser and CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser are good options.
Night 1: Exfoliation
The first night of skin cycling entails exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation is recommended over physical exfoliation. AHAs like glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid work to slough off dead skin cells, promoting smoother skin texture and a radiant glow over time. Effective leave-on exfoliants include the much-loved Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment, Alpha-H Liquid Gold, and the newly reformulated Youth To The People Kombucha + 10% AHA Power Exfoliant. For those who enjoy a wash-off peel, the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel is the way to go.
For acne-prone skin, using salicylic acid is a good option; an oil-soluble acid, salicylic acid is able to penetrate the skin more deeply and dissolve the oil and debris that leads to clogged pores. Try the cult-fave Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant or the Medik8 Press & Clear — both are formulated with 2% BHA to effectively decongest the skin. Alternatively, the SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum is a potent exfoliant designed specifically for mature, breakout-prone skin.
Night 2: Retinoids
Incorporating a retinoid — an umbrella term for vitamin A derivatives which includes retinol — into your skincare routine is one of the best steps you can take to prevent the formation or deepening of wrinkles and fine lines. Retinoids work to promote skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, resulting in healthier skin over time. As a potentially irritating ingredient, it’s typically recommended that retinoids are introduced a few times a week or every second day until the skin gets accustomed to them; the skin cycling routine dictates they be used once every four days.
Apply a moisturiser or eye cream to the undereye area, corners of the mouth, and the sides of the nose (these are the areas where the skin is thinnest and most sensitive) to act as a protective barrier before applying your retinoid of choice to the rest of your face.
Retinals are a less irritating form of retinoid, making them suitable for newbies and seasoned veterans alike. Try the Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum, Medik8 Crystal Retinal, or Trinny London Overnight Sensation.
Nights 3 & 4: Recovery
These nights act as an opportunity for your skin to recover from the chemical exfoliation and retinoids used. Allowing your skin to take a break from potentially irritating active ingredients prevents your skin barrier from becoming impaired. On nights three and four, focus on hydrating and moisturising ingredients that work to promote a healthy skin barrier, such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides, and peptides.
Every night: Moisturiser
Whether it’s an exfoliation, retinoid, or recovery night, after cleansing and applying the applicable treatment for the night, you should seal in moisture with a moisturiser. This can be in the form of a rich night cream or sleeping mask. If you think your skin is in need of a little extra nourishment, apply a face oil prior to your moisturiser.
Every morning: Vitamin C & SPF
Although skin cycling is primarily focused on the nighttime element of your skincare routine, it’s essential to apply SPF during the day to prevent sun damage. Keep your morning routine streamlined with a gentle cleanser, vitamin C serum, moisturiser, and SPF.
Words by Esmé Duggan
Feature image courtesy of Marc Shaw
