Ah, the cocktail dress code. No longer limited to cocktail parties, cocktail attire has become par for the course for everything from office parties, luncheons, and weddings to trackside events and corporate mixers. The cocktail dress code is so ubiquitous that often those setting it don’t even know how to define it.
While cocktail attire for men is not as complicated as it can be for women, it’s still accompanied by a fair few questions. Do I need a suit? How about a tux? Are sneakers ok?? (spoiler alert: they’re not).
To make the murky waters of appropriate event dressing a little clearer, we’ve put together the ultimate guide to the cocktail dress code for men.
Related: Cocktail Hour; A Guide To Nailing The Cocktail Dress Code For Women
History of cocktail attire for men
The cocktail dress code for men emerged during the 1920s and ‘30s. A time of great social upheaval, the 1920s saw women take on greater roles in the public sphere, taking up positions in society and commerce. This also coincided with advocacy groups like the Women’s Organization for National Prohibition Reform, with this newly liberated ‘Drinking Woman’ shunning ‘old-fashioned’ Edwardian functions in favour of intimate cocktail parties and gatherings. In turn, the confining corsetry and endless layers of Edwardian garments were dually shed, replaced by flapper and sheath dresses.
Now, you may be wondering what women have to do with the cocktail dress code for men. Ah, but everything, mon chéri. The Wall Street Crash of 1929 and the resultant Great Depression in the decade that followed resulted a decline in more ostentatious gatherings (think larger dinners, galas, and balls); in their place was ‘cocktail hour’, with women typically hosting small pre-dinner events between 6pm and 8pm.
Prior to this, men were required to change out of their work clothes before dinner or late evening events. As cocktail hour was straight after work, this was no longer possible, resulting in the emergence of a new form of dressing — more formal than smart casual but less formal than black tie.
So, what is cocktail attire for men today?
At its roots, cocktail attire for men is an outfit that can travel from office to cocktail hour with the mere addition of a pocket square. However, that’s the formal office wear of last century; not your tech startup fit of jeans and a t-shirt with sneakers. Today, cocktail attire offers men the ability to take a little more stylistic license with their outfits, thanks to a less rigid dress code than formal or black tie.
Sitting in the space between smart casual casual and black tie, cocktail attire for men can be simplified into a formulaic art. While you technically can’t go wrong with a two-piece suit, cocktail attire plays best in the realm of separates. Confused? Allow us to illustrate.
1. Choose a non-boring sports coat
While black tie dressing exists within rather narrow parameters and often results in the male contingent of any one event looking like they’re wearing a uniform, cocktail attire for men is an opportunity for self-expression. As the cocktail dress code stipulates a specific degree of formality rather than specific garments of clothing (as opposed to black and white tie dress codes), it provides wearers with more leeway. Steer away from sports coats in solid colours like black, brown, grey, and charcoal which can read as too buttoned up and opt for something with a pattern like houndstooth, windowpane checks, or herringbone. Alternatively, add interest through unexpected fabrics such as velvet or corduroy.
For those who want to make a strong sartorial statement, a double-breasted jacket is the way to go. It’s an easy way to stand out from the crowd without incorporating loud patterns or eccentric fabrics.
2. Don’t choose trousers that look like half a suit
Choosing the right trousers isn’t as simple as reaching for the bottom half of one of your pre-existing suits. Instead, look for tailored slacks or odd trousers that are designed to be worn on their own; they’ll typically be composed of a more weightier wool than suiting trousers (which tend to look peculiar worn on their own). Grey is a versatile—if a little old-fashioned—choice, while brown, camel, olive green, and cream are infallible options. Look for slim fit for or straight leg trousers with little to no break (i.e. they shouldn’t be extending over your shoes). For a more contemporary look, you can also opt for trousers with a cuffed hem. While some newfangled menswear sites might suggest jeans are appropriate, this is a hard no.
Related: Essential Odd Trousers Every Man Needs In His Wardrobe
3. When it comes to shirting, don’t play it safe
Look. A crisp cotton dress shirt in white or light blue will always be correct, but it’s not right. Remember what we said about self-expression? Consider shirts in a louche fabric like silk or opt for something with a funky print (paisley, kaleidoscopic, nature-inspired, tie-dye…the world is your oyster). This is all the more important if you do end up opting for a suit over separates.
Alternatively, deviate from standard silhouettes by opting for a knit polo shirt or a roll neck. The former is good if you’re reticent to avoid the dandy look that a silk shirt inevitably brings about (or for the warmer months where short sleeves simply make sense), while the latter allows for a more clean, slimline silhouette than conventional shirting.
4. If you must wear a suit, make it interesting
Hey, sometimes a full suit is the easiest option. Just steer away from standard navy, charcoal, or black options to avoid looking like an off-duty banker. Choose a bold colour like rust, cabernet, or forest green, and perhaps opt for an interesting fabric like velvet. If, despite our advice, you’ve left it till the last minute and are reaching for one of your work suits — ditch the tie, opt for a rollneck in a non-neutral colour, and reach for the accessories (a pocket square is a must here).
That said, sometimes playing it safe is a good thing. If you’re dressing for a daytime event in the warmer months (think a spring or summer wedding), a linen or seersucker suit in a light neutral shade like beige, cream, or light camel paired with a solid-colour shirt and patterned tie is a safe bet.
5. When it comes to shoes, think outside the oxford
Let’s get this out of the way: no, you cannot wear sneakers. Even minimalist ones.
Dress shoes are a must for cocktail attire for men, however you can go more casual than oxfords (which are still a viable option, by the way). Consider brogues, derbies, loafers, monk strap shoes, or even a pair of leather Chelsea boots. While black and brown are always on the table, oxblood and burgundy also work well.
Related: How To Wear Chelsea Boots For Men
A pair of patterned loafers can also be a good way to inject a fun element into your outfit, with many loafers acting as a canvas for artistic licence. If you’re feeling preppy, two-tone black-and-white penny loafers are a fun option.
Related: How To Style Men’s Loafers For (Almost) Any Occasion
6. It’s a crime not to accessorise
Accessories are a necessity. Taking things from good to great, the right accessories help an outfit feel complete. Bow ties are often recommended for cocktail attire for men, however they can be a bit stuffy; we’d recommend ditching the bow tie and saving it for black tie occasions.
If you’ve opted for traditional pieces like a standard cotton shirt and tweed sports coat or a suit in a neutral tone, this is a good time to add textural interest to your outfit in the form of a patterned silk tie and a pocket square.
If you’ve already kept things interesting in the suiting and shirting department (think silk shirting, colourful suiting), you can opt to play it safe here by simply finishing off with a belt and perhaps a pocket square. Note: never wear a silk tie over a silk shirt; these look best sans tie.
A watch is also a must-have; here, we’ve put together our favourite dress watches to wear.
Cocktail attire for men outfit formulas
Yes, dressing can be an art, but it’s also a science. If you’re stuck for ideas, here are some outfit formula thought-starters to nail the cocktail dress code for men.
- Velvet suit + contrasting roll neck + loafers
- Brown tweed herringbone blazer + cream trousers + baby pink cotton shirt + tie + brown brogues or derbies
- Dark brown suit + rust silk shirt + brown Chelsea boots
- Burgundy suit + striped cotton shirt + patterned pocket square + brown horsebit loafers
- Beige linen suit + white or olive cotton knit polo + pocket square + brown loafers, brogues, or derbies
- Navy double-breasted blazer + cream trousers + neutral-toned merino roll neck + pocket square + brown brogues or derbies (or even monk straps!)
Words by Theo Rosen
