When it comes to menswear, staid rules have long wavered and given way to methods of dressing suited to our times. However, there is one sartorial stalwart that has remained steadfast. A great oxford shirt is a necessity in any well-dressed man’s wardrobe, whether it be worn in the classic style — buttoned up and tucked into trousers — or dressed down by being worn unbuttoned over a t-shirt. While the oxford shirt never truly lost its place, its essential nature is solidified by the gradual shift away from streetwear and towards classic dressing that the menswear category is experiencing. The OCBD — short for oxford cloth button-down — has a storied history, with its roots in polo and Ivy League schools. But while its origins are distinctly old money, the oxford shirt is the ultimate style equaliser, making it easy for any man to dress well.
What is an oxford shirt?
An oxford shirt, or oxford cloth button down, is defined by its signature basket weave fabric, wherein an equal amount of weft threads are crossed over an equal amount of warp threads. This results in a fabric that is sturdy and durable, yet soft enough to allow for mobility during sports (not that it’s worn while playing sports nowadays). The basket weave also results in a subtle yet distinguishable crosshatch texture.
Naturally, the oxford cloth button-down requires button-secured collar points, with these lending the shirt its louche collar roll. Other oxford shirt details are somewhat negotiable. A chest pocket can be handy but makes the overall appearance of the shirt more casual, while a box pleat at the back ensures a full range of motion. Pleated sleeves also lend the piece a sense of old-school charm.
History of the oxford shirt
Despite its name, the oxford shirt did not, in fact, originate in Oxford, England. The oxford shirt has its roots in Scotland in the early 19th century, with oxford cloth one of four university-named fabrics, along with Harvard, Yale, and Cambridge. The nomenclature was a way for Scottish mills to add a level of prestige and elegance to their fabrics by naming them after esteemed universities.
Polo players of the British Raj were among the first to wear the oxford shirt and were responsible for its iconic button-down collar. To prevent their collars from flapping in the wind mid-match, polo players would sew buttons to the body of the shirt to keep their collars securely pinned down.
The oxford cloth button-down was adopted by American Ivy League students around the 1920s, with the classic preppy all-American look pairing the shirt with penny loafers, striped or plaid blazers, and cable knit sweaters. A few decades later, the preppy look spread outside the hallowed halls of Harvard, Yale, Stanford, and the like, becoming popular with young men wishing to align themselves with the upper-class lifestyle. The ubiquitous nature of the oxford shirt also saw it adopted by stylish celebrities and cultural icons like Paul Newman, Rudolph Valentino, Alain Delon, Robert Redford, John F Kennedy, and Miles Davis. The staple then made its way back to the UK, becoming popular with middle-class professionals.
The best oxford cloth button-down shirts
When it comes to price points, oxford shirts run the gamut. From affordable options ideal for buying multiples to one-and-done investment pieces, these are the best oxford shirts on the market.
1. Proper Cloth American Pima Heavy Oxford
For a truly customised fit, opt for Proper Cloth’s made-to-measure service. Offering made-to-order menswear at reasonable prices, every facet of the Proper Cloth American Pima White Heavy Oxford can be customised to suit you, from the fit to the fabric and design details like the collar, cuffs, and pockets.
Price: $196AUD
2. Drake’s Cotton Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirt
When it comes to menswear icons, visit a menswear icon. Founded in 1977 as a tie manufacturer, Drake’s underwent a change of hands in 2010 and has since cemented itself as a go-to brand for timeless menswear staples, including the OCBD. Featuring a sturdy, pronounced collar roll and a box pleat at the back, the Drake’s Cotton Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirt epitomises the platonic ideal of OCBDs. Its hardwearing cotton construction only gets better with time, slightly softening when washed.
Price: $421AUD
3. Asket The Oxford Shirt
The Asket The Oxford Shirt is a straight fit iteration cut from brushed cotton with a modest collar roll and Mother of Pearl buttons. Boasting the elegant, pared-back appeal emblematic of Scandinavian pieces, it’s equally at home paired with a suit as it is with denim. Asket’s approach to sizing means that in addition to standard sizes (XS to XL), there’s the option to select short, regular, or long lengths, ensuring everyone gets the perfect fit.
Price: $180AUD
4. Uniqlo Oxford Slim Fit Long Sleeve Shirt
The best oxford cloth button down at this price point, the Uniqlo Oxford Slim Fit Long Sleeve Shirt is cut from finely textured woven cotton and has all the hallmarks of an OCBD, albiet with a slightly shorter collar roll. With a slightly slimmer fit, it takes on a sleek appearance and can be worn tucked in or left loose over a tank top or t-shirt. It comes in off-white, grey, pink, baby blue, and navy — at $40AUD a pop, we say get all five.
Price: $40AUD
5. Ami de Cœur-Logo Cotton-Oxford Shirt
A more contemporary take on the OCBD. The Ami de Cœur-Logo Cotton-Oxford Shirt has a slightly shorter length and is cut close to the body; most notably, it comes without pockets which gives it a slightly more formal appearance when paired with dress trousers or suiting separates. The red Ami de Cœur logo adds a hint of edge.
Price: $199AUD
6. Todd Snyder Classic Fit Favorite Oxford Long-Sleeve Shirt
An oversized take on the class oxford shirt, this iteration is cut from beathable cotton, with the blue wash lending it a relaxed, lived-in feel. Style with cream linen pants for the ultimate polished summer outfit.
Price: $224AUD
7. Polo Ralph Lauren Slim Fit Oxford Shirt
You can’t mention prep without thinking of Ralph Lauren. The Oxford shirt was one of the first pieces the American fashion house introduced when it was founded in 1967, going on to become a quintessential part of the ‘Ralph Lauren look’. This slim-fit iteration comes without a pocket and bears the iconic embroidered pony logo on the chest.
Price: $169AUD
8. P. Johnson Oxford Shirt
This blue and white striped oxford cloth button down by Australian tailor and clothier P. Johnson takes a relaxed approach to the classic piece. The colour palette and wide stripe evoke an elevated pyjama dressing feel. The collar roll is slightly less pronounced than ideal, however, it’s still a good casual option. The P. Johnson take is also available in a plethora of shades including white, baby blue, green stripes, pale yellow, and pastel pink.
Price: $235AUD
9. Spier & Mackay Garment Dyed Casual Oxford
The Spier & Mackay Garment Dyed Casual Oxford is a supremely casual iteration, specifically designed to be worn untucked. The garment dyeing process occurs after the shirt has been cut and sewn, resulting in a more lived-in look. Unlike traditional OCBDs, the Spier & Mackay Garment Dyed Casual Oxford has a cleaner, more contemporary appearance and doesn’t feature darting or pleats at the back.
Price: $68USD
10. Brooks Brothers Stretch Regent Regular-Fit Sport Shirt
One of the original purveyors of OCDBs. While Brooks Brothers is the reason the oxford shirt is as ubiquitous as it is today, their take on the staple often veers on the billowy side. However, the Brooks Brothers Stretch Regent Regular-Fit Sport Shirt has a slimmer fit than the brand’s traditional styles and comes in a wide range of checked, plaid, striped, and plain versions.
Price: from $59.10USD
Words by Theo Rosen
