Retinol has attained almost legendary status in the skincare world, with the skincare staple being recommended for anti-ageing, acne, and fine line prevention. Whilst retinol is a powerful tool to have in your skincare arsenal, it can cause irritation to the skin, or even be ineffective if used incorrectly.
To ensure you get the most out of your retinol, we’ve broken it down for you.
You’ll also enjoy:
Why Your Skincare Routine Needs To Include Vitamin C
Is This The Secret To Glass Skin? Everything You Need To Know About Facial Essence
The Best Men’s Aftershaves to Soothe Your Post-shave Skin
How does retinol work?
A modified form of vitamin A, retinol converts to retinoic acid when applied to the skin. This retinoic acid then binds to receptors in our skin’s cells and activates the cell maturation process in the skin, allowing for faster turnover of skin cells, enhanced collagen production, and lightening of pigmentation and scarring.
Retinol or retinoid?
Retinol refers to the over the counter derivative of vitamin A (prescription formulas typically contain retinoic acid), whilst retinoid is the umbrella term for all vitamin A products. All retinol products are retinoids, however, not all retinoids are necessarily retinols.
How does retinol benefit the skin?
With consistent use over time, retinol (and other retinoids) can improve skin texture and appearance by reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, acne scarring, and brown spots. Retinoids also boost collagen production (which typically starts to decline around age 25) and have even been shown to prevent the rise of collagenase – the enzyme that breaks down collagen – in the skin.
When should you start using retinol?
While there are no set guidelines on when you should start using retinoid products, most dermatologists advise introducing them during your mid-twenties as this is when collagen production begins to decline. Those with hyperpigmentation or breakout-prone skin may benefit from using retinol earlier than this.
How to select the retinol that’s right for you
To avoid the initial side effects that many come with retinol use, such as peeling, sun sensitivity, and redness, beginners should start with a retinol product in the 0.2-0.5% range, before progressing to 1% after continued use for three months, by which time your skin has built up a tolerance to the active.
How to use retinol in your skincare routine
Retinol should be used three to four times a week (every second night works well). In the evening, apply a retinol serum to dry skin after cleansing and toning, and follow up with moisturiser or facial oil. For particularly sensitive skin, retinol can be mixed with moisturiser and applied every second night. When using retinol or retinoid products, it’s essential to wear a good quality SPF (30+ or higher is recommended) during the day.
Natural retinoid alternatives
Those who find retinols too irritating may prefer bakuchiol, a natural alternative to retinoids derived from the leaves of the babchi plant. Bakuchiol has been used for centuries in Traditional Chinese and Indian Ayurvedic medicine to heal and soothe the skin. Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol doesn’t cause any dryness or redness and actually works to hydrate the skin while promoting cell turnover and skin cell regeneration. As it’s a gentle product, bakuchiol can be used daily in the morning or at night.
The best retinoid products to buy right now
1. Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10
For effective, professional formulas, you can’t go past Medik8. The Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10 is formulated with retinaldehyde, a stable vitamin A derivative that works up to 11 times faster than retinol. Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and vitamin E join retinal to create a cream-based formula that hydrates skin while working to even skin tone and reduce wrinkles and fine lines. For those new to vitamin A, try the Crystal Retinal 1, 3, or 6 formulas.
2. Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil
This cult favourite is a lightweight product, formulated with soothing blue tansy and German chamomile oil to minimise redness and other retinol related skin irritation.
3. RAWKANVAS The Foundation
Brightening vitamin C and age-defying retinol meet in this antioxidant-rich cream that works to boost cell turnover for a brighter complexion, plumper looking skin, and a reduction in signs of ageing.
4. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream
Drunk Elephant’s formula combines vegan-friendly retinol derived from passionfruit with skin-barrier supporting vitamin K to improve skin structure and tone and provide anti-inflammatory action.
5. Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask
While many retinoids can cause initial irritation, this gentle formula from Glow Recipe is formulated specifically for your delicate eye area. This soothing mask combines encapsulated retinol with avocado and coffeeberry which work as you sleep, so you can wake up with firm and de-puffed under eyes.
6. Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum
This overnight serum combines retinol, ferulic acid, and niacinamide which work to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and fine lines, and skin elasticity and texture.
Words by Arabella Johnson
