Despite its choke hold over the watch world—and the luxury market at large—for many, the conversation around Patek Philippe begins and ends at the Nautilus. However, it would be remiss to overlook the Swiss manufacture’s high horology pieces. For close to two centuries, Patek Philippe has been bringing haute complications to the table with a robust range of world timers, grand sonneries, and calendar watches under its belt. For Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe is primarily iterating on its storied rather than creating; bringing back a collector’s favourite and updating key references. Herewith, every new release from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2024.
World Time Date 5330G-001
- The Patek Philippe World Time Date 5330G-001 is the first watch to synchronise the date display with local time
- Other watches equipped with a date display require the date to be independently adjusted when changing time zones; this release couples the date display with the local time, meaning the date will automatically be adjusted when the date advances to the following day as well as when crossing the International Date Line
- The date mechanism is able to function both backwards and forwards without damaging the movement
- The new World Time Date 5330G-001 has a blue-grey opaline dial with a carbon motif in the centre and is presented on a blue leather strap embossed with a denim motif
Model: World Time Date (5330G-001)
Case size: 40mm
Movement: 240 HU C (automatic)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, local time and home time; world time with date synchronised to local time
Power reserve: 38-48 hours
Golden Ellipse 5738/1R-001
- First launched in 1968, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse was available on a chain or link bracelet until the early 1980s
- The new Golden Ellipse 5738/1R-001 revives this tradition, with the timepiece presented on a chain-style rose gold bracelet
- The rose gold case and chain bracelet are complemented by the sunburst black dial
- It’s powered by the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 and is the slimmest watch in the core Patek Philippe collection
Model: Golden Ellipse (5738/1R-001)
Case size: 49.5mm x 34.5mm
Movement: 240 (automatic)
Functions: hours and minutes
Power reserve: 48
Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts 5160/500R
- This is the second watch inspired by the Ref. 91975, which was released in 1925 and was the world’s first perpetual calendar wrist watch
- The Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts 5160/500R is crafted from rose gold, with the 38mm case covered in intricate engraved floral motifs
- The floral decals on the case are echoed on the silver opaline dial, which features applied Breguet numerals in blackened white gold and pear-shaped hands in black-oxidised yellow gold
Model: Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts (5160/500R)
Case size: 38mm
Movement: 26-330 S QR (automatic)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar, moonphase, retrograde date
Power reserve: 35-45 hours
Grand Complications Alarm Travel Time 5520RG
- This vintage-inspired travel watch unites the Travel Time system (which displays a second time zone) with a 24-hour alarm mechanism which a hammer striking a classic gong. It’s powered by the self-winding calibre AL 30-660 S C FUS which has four patents
- A rose gold case houses a two-tone dial that pairs sunburst grey with charcoal grey, complemented by off-white Arabic numerals
Model: Grand Complications Alarm Travel Time (5520RG)
Case size: 42.2mm
Movement: AL 30-660 S C FUS (automatic)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, 24-hour alarm with gong, alarm on/off indicator, alarm day/night indicator, dual time display, local and home time day/night indicators, date coupled to local time
Power reserve: 42-52 hours
Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar 5236P
- This sleek perpetual calendar displays information in a clean, easy-to-read format
- The apetures showcase the day, date, and month on the top half of the day, while a day/night indicator, leap year status, and moonphase are on the lower half
- The 41.3mm case is crafted from platinum and is teamed with a salmon dial
- It’s powered by the self-winding 31-260 PS QL which is visible through the exhibition caseback
Model: Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar (5236P)
Case size: 41.3mm
Movement: 31-260 PS QL (automatic)
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar
Power reserve: 38-48 hours
Complications Annual Calendar 5396G-017
- The Patek Philippe Complications Annual Calendar 5396G sees a fan-favourite model updated in white gold with a blue sunburst fumé dial with baguette-cut diamond hour markers
- It’s powered by the self-winding calibre 26-330 S QA LU 24H which requires an adjustment once a year at the end of February
Model: Complications Annual Calendar (5396G-017)
Case size: 38.5mm
Movement: 26-330 S QA LU 24H (automatic)
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, annual calendar, 24-hour indicator, moonphase
Power reserve: 35-45 hours
Nautilus Chronograph 5980/60G
- Patek Philippe discontinued its Nautilus Chronograph 5980R in rose gold earlier this year, making this release all the more exciting
- The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/60G is crafted from white gold and has a blue-grey opaline dial with rounded baton hands and baton hour indices in white gold with a luminescent coating
- All information is grouped together on a monocounter at 6 o’clock
- The flyback chronograph function is operated using the pushers at 2 and 5 o’clock
- It’s presented with two straps; a leather strap with an embossed denim motif and a blue-grey fabric strap with white contrast stitching
Model: Nautilus Chronograph (5980/60G)
Case size: 40.5mm
Movement: CH 28-520 C (automatic)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph with 60-minute and 12-hour monocounter
Power reserve: 45-55 hours
Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G-001
- The sporty Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G is the first of its kind to be crafted from white gold, paired with the blue-grey opaline dial that has dominated the manufacture’s Watches & Wonders 2024 releases
- The self-winding calibre 26-330 S C FUS makes it easy to set a second time zone, which is operable by using the pushers in on the left side of the case to advance or move back the local-hour hand in one-hour increments
- The date indication on the subdial at 6 o’clock is paired to the local time
Model: Aquanaut Travel Time (5164G-001)
Case size: 40.8mm
Movement: 26-330 S C FUS (automatic)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, dual time display, day/night indication for home and local times, local date
Power reserve: 35-45 hours
Aquanaut Travel Time 5269R-001
- Replacing the previous gem-set quartz Aquanaut Travel Time, the rose gold case and blue-grey opaline dial lend this timepiece unisex appeal
- Arabic numerals in rose gold are set over the deep embossed Aquanaut pattern
- The quartz movement boasts two time zones with a day/night indication for home time
Model: Aquanaut Travel Time (5269R-001)
Case size: 38.8mm
Movement: E 23-250 S FUS 24H (quartz)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, dual time display, day/night indication for home time
Power reserve: N/A; duration of battery life
Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie 5268/461G
- The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie 5268/461G is a vibrant display of high jewellery prowess
- Crafted from white gold it features baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires forming a checkerboard pattern on the dial that echoes the Aquanaut collection’s signature pattern
- The chapter ring alternates between baguette-cut blue sapphire hour-markers and snow-set brilliant-cut diamonds, while the bezel features baguette-cut sapphires in a subtle gradient from light to dark blue
Model: Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie (5268/461G)
Case size: 38.8mm
Movement: 26‑330 S (automatic)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 45 hours
Twenty-4 4910/1201R
- The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 collection made its debut in 1999, marking the first dedicated women’s collection by the Swiss manufacture. It usually pairs a rectilinear case with a ‘manchette’ (cuff-style) bracelet
- The collection celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, with the Twenty-4 2910/1201R teaming a rose gold case and bracelet with a purple dial adorned with a wavy guilloché pattern
- The bezel is embellished with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds
Model: Twenty-4 (4910/1201R)
Case size: 30mm x 25.1mm
Movement: E 15 (quartz)
Functions: hours, minutes
Power reserve: N/A; duration of battery life
Albert Review will be covering Watches & Wonders 2024 as it unfolds. For more novelties, horological news, and new releases, check out our Watches & Wonders coverage here.
Words by Henry Blake
