Whether it’s leftover from the remains of acne that once was or the result of unprotected sun exposure, hyperpigmentation is something most of us will experience at some point in our lives. A broad term used to describe darkened patches of the skin as the result of an increase in melanin, hyperpigmentation can be caused by a multitude of factors including inflammation as a result of pimples or acne, sun exposure, and hormonal changes. Hyperpigmentation can manifest as red, brown or even purple discolouration depending on your skin tone, with those with darker – i.e. more melanated skin – more prone to hyperpigmentation.
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What causes hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is caused by excess melanin production, which can occur for several reasons. The three most common types of hyperpigmentation are melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Melasma: attributed to hormonal changes like pregnancy and oral contraceptive pill usage, melasma typically appears as dark, discoloured patches on the skin (usually on the face and stomach). Though it’s far more common in women, men can also experience melasma.
Sunspots: as the name indicates, sunspots are the result of unprotected exposure to ultraviolet rays from the sun over time. These tend to appear in areas that are more exposed to the sun, like the face, hands, and neck.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): following inflammation as a result of trauma to the skin (like acne, eczema, and dermatitis), the skin cells produce extra pigment during the healing process, resulting in discolouration. These dark marks tend to be red or brown and sit where acne or other skin conditions once were.
How to treat hyperpigmentation?
When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation, prevention is key. While hyperpigmentation can be difficult to treat and some types (like melasma and sunspots) may be impossible to completely cure, it can be managed. The single most important factor in preventing and improving existing hyperpigmentation is diligent sunscreen application; ideally a zinc-based physical sunblock of at least SPF 30 that has broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection.
As well as daily sunscreen use, hyperpigmentation is often treated with hydroquinone. Hydroquinone can be an effective treatment for multiple types of hyperpigmentation, however, prolonged consistent use of hydroquinone can actually result in darkening of the skin due to a condition called ochronosis, making it essential to take breaks from using the ingredient. Other effective topical hyperpigmentation treatments include retinoids to promote skin cell turnover; exfoliating acids like AHAs, BHA, and PHAs to exfoliate surface layers of the skin; vitamin C which brightens the skin and can help safe dark spots by inhibiting melanin production; and other complementary ingredients like kojic acid, azelaic acid, and tranexamic acid.
The best serums and treatments for hyperpigmentation
Targeted serums and treatments can be an effective way to tackle hyperpigmentation. From vitamin C serums in the morning to retinol at night and everything in between, these are the best serums and treatments for hyperpigmentation.
1. Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum is designed to be mixed by you prior to your first use, ensuring optimal freshness. This potent serum combines 15% vitamin C with ferulic acid and vitamin E, both of which enhance the antioxidant benefits of vitamin C, as well as a slew of plant-based antioxidants and fruit acids that enzymatically dissolve dead skin cells to help the serum penetrate better. Ideal for treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sunspots.
2. HoliFrog Sunnyside C Glow Serum
This silky smooth serum combines 15% vitamin C with 3% tranexamic acid, a derivative of the amino acid lycine. Tranexamic acid works by blocking the pathways between keratinocytes and melanocytes, effectively blocking the pathway that leads to UV-induced melanin synthesis. Plus, it plays nicely with brightening vitamin C, working in tandem to treat dark marks and discolouration. Throw in a cocktail of niacinamide, hydrating and anti-inflammatory mushrooms, and nourishing emollients and you have a moisturising brightening serum that’s a delight to use.
3. SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF
The oft-overlooked sister of the famous C E Ferulic, the SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF combines 10% vitamin C with phloretin and ferulic acid. The three-pronged approach works to target damage caused by pollution and UV exposure, improve discolouration and overall skin tone, and brighten the skin.
4. Clinique Smart Night Clinical MD Multi-Dimensional Repair Treatment Retinol
Ideal for those making their first foray into the world of retinoids, this serum (despite its unwieldy name) is simple and easy to use for beginners, with its creamy, moisturising formula mitigating the irritation often associated with retinoid use. Peptides, vitamin C, and niacinamide join retinol in this serum to speed up cell turnover while strengthening and brightening the skin. Plus, hyaluronic acid keeps skin hydrated while the retinol does its work.
5. John Plunkett’s SuperFade Face Treatment Cream
Often considered the gold standard in hyperpigmentation treatment, hydroquinone meets salicylic acid in this face cream, which works to treat hyperpigmentation at the source. Hydroquinone prevents the formation of excess melanin by disabling the melanocyte at its source and can be used to treat melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Salicylic acid breaks down and removes dead skin cells and excess oil, allowing the hydroquinone to better penetrate the skin. The John Plunkett’s SuperFade Face Treatment Cream is best directly to the discoloured areas, and used for at least six weeks but no longer than six months.
6. Skinstitut EXPERT Refine AHA Glycolic Toner
AHAs can help lift pigmentation caused by long-term sun exposure while brightening dull skin. The Skinstitut EXPERT Refine AHA Glycolic Toner utilises powerful AHA glycolic acid in conjunction with calming aloe vera, green tea, and witch hazel to fade uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation.
7. Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
A powerful retinol serum, the Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum is an effective way to fade dark spots while addressing key signs of ageing. In addition to two types of retinol, this serum features CoQ10, which works to improve the appearance of age spots and sunspots, promoting a more even skin tone.
8. Dr Naomi Skin Pore Relation
Working to remove sunspots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks over time, the Dr Naomi Skin Pore Relation is an exfoliating toner that resurfaces and clarifies skin. Fruit-derived AHAs and BHA meet skin barrier supporting probiotics and soothing ingredients like bio honey and willowherb extract, to exfoliate the skin and speed up skin cell turnover. Plus, the formula contains Dr Naomi’s signature brightening cocktail, which features 12 brightening ingredients designed to even out skin tone and fade dark spots through multi-level melanogenesis inhibition.
9. NIOD RE: Pigment
A lightweight emollient serum, the NIOD RE: Pigment utilises innovative technology to fade dark marks. Gallic acid brights, shiitake ferment targets dark spots, an azelaic acid derivative reduces redness, and red evodia fruit derivatives work to improve skin tone and overall radiance. Ideal for those who tend to find actives like retinol and vitamin C irritating, or want a hydroquinone alternative.
Words by AR Staff
