If you’re the recipient of any number of event invitations—whether they be launch parties, networking mixers, holiday gatherings, trackside drinks, or after-work mixers—there’s a good chance you’ve come across the ‘cocktail dress code’ directive. Existing within the liminal space between smart casual and formal, the cocktail dress code is the most ill-defined and widely interpreted dress code in contemporary society.
While cocktail hour is evocative of a certain vibe, the accompanying dress code is a little more vague. Its ambiguity means there’s often confusion around what actually constitutes cocktail attire; while most event attendees are correct in striving for a balance between elegance and practicality, it can be difficult to know whether you’re doing too much or too little.
To help simplify things and reduce decision fatigue come event season, we’ve put together a foolproof guide on navigating cocktail attire for women.
History of cocktail attire
Understanding the past is crucial to nailing the present — so first, a brief primer on how cocktail attire came to be. The 1920s were a time of great social upheaval. In North America and across Europe, women were emerging into the public sphere, carving out greater roles in the realms of both society and commerce. There was a desire to shed the endless layers (think corsetry and long ruffled skirting) of the Edwardian era and dress with both individuality and practicality in mind. The roaring twenties saw the advent of flapper dressing, which boasted shorter hemlines and less restrictive silhouettes, albeit with the same level of embellishment and detail as the era before it.
The Wall Street Crash of 1929 and the resultant Great Depression in the decade that followed saw the advent of simpler dresses that were not too ostentatious for daytime but sophisticated enough for evening wear (the earliest form of day-to-night dressing). Among the upper middle and upper classes, intimate cocktail parties became more popular than larger dinners or balls, leading to the rise of ‘cocktail hour’ with women hosting small pre-dinner events between 6pm and 8pm.
The dresses of the 1930s saw slim, bias-cut ankle-length styles replace the short, straight-cut dresses of the 1920s. In the decades that followed, the length of these dresses was slightly shortened to what we know today as ‘midi length’. Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ collection of 1947 was seminal in adapting the cinched waists and full skirts of formal dressing for cocktail hour, with the silhouette replacing the sheath dresses of the prior decade and carrying on into the 1950s.
Where did the term ‘cocktail dress’ come from?
While Vogue was the first to use the term ‘cocktail dress’ in its May 15th, 1927 issue, in reference to a Patou dress crafted from a “mannish tweed,” it was Christian Dior who popularised the term and whose definition best resembles the dress code as we know it today.
According to the Metropolitan Museum of Art: “Christian Dior was the first to name the early evening frock a “cocktail” dress in the late 1940s, and in doing so allowed magazines, department stores, and rival Parisian and American designers to promote fashion with cocktail-specific terminology.”
So, what does cocktail attire mean today?
Modern day cocktail attire is broader and freer than ever—it may not even involve an actual ‘cocktail dress’. The general aim of the game is to look less formal than you would at a red carpet event yet more formal than you would at a casual al fresco lunch. Below, some considerations to help you nail the cocktail dress code.
1. Consider your dress length
Intended to balance elegance with practicality, the original cocktail dresses represented a shortening of hemlines from the Edwardian era and a lengthening from the bedazzled flapper mini dresses of the roaring twenties. As such, a true cocktail dress is a happy medium between the two—what we, in today’s terms, call a midi dress. Look for dresses with hemlines that hit from just-below-the-knee to calf length. If opting for a longer dress length, balance it out by selecting a sleeker style with a less dramatic cut and minimal embellishments to reduce the formality factor.
In truly contemporary settings (launch parties, intimate gatherings amongst friends, birthdays), mini dresses may also work; consider styles with asymmetrical details such as an elongated side sash. That said, for more traditional events (think corporate mixers, weddings, company events) it’s best to stick to midi styles.
While cocktail parties often turn into a sea of black dresses, they also offer an opportunity for experimentation through more dramatic colours; try jewel tones like deep ruby red, emerald, and sapphire blue or opt for striking nature-inspired shades of olive green or rust orange.
2. A cocktail dress code doesn’t necessarily mean a cocktail dress
While the cocktail dress has played an indispensable role in the formation of the cocktail dress code, it’s no longer a necessity. In contemporary settings, cocktail attire for women can be achieved with louche, relaxed tailoring in a nighttime material like velvet, silk, or cupro; structured suiting (think something double breasted, or perhaps look to the YSL Le Smoking jacket worn with tailored trousers and nothing underneath); silk or satin midi skirts; or perhaps even a jumpsuit.
Related: How To Style A Slip Skirt & The Best Slip Skirts To Buy
3. Cocktail dress code material, fabric, and colours
Regardless of whether you choose a midi dress, skirt, or suit, fabric can make an outfit cocktail attire worthy or relegate it to a casual errands-only outfit. Avoid ‘daytime’ fabrics such as cotton and linen and instead opt for garments made of silk, satin, chiffon, lace, velvet, or even organza.
4. How to choose the right shoes for a cocktail dress code
The right shoes can make an outfit. Fortunately, the ‘right’ shoe is no longer necessarily a stiletto; nor does it need to be a sky high heel (though both of those are still viable options). Those who prioritise comfort will be happy to know that block heels are a smart choice, as are kitten heels which are experiencing something of a renaissance. If your outfit of choice is relatively pared-back, add drama through a shoe with a pop of colour or crystal embellishments.
Some form of heel is generally expected, however if you absolutely must opt for flats, ensure that what they lack in height they make up for in detail—fabrics like satin or velvet, bold colours, and crystal or studded embellishments work well here. Alternatively, if you’re borrowing outfit cues from the boys in the form of suiting, look to them for footwear options too; statement loafers may be a good option here.
5. How to choose the right bag for a cocktail dress code
If ever there was a time to learn from Succession, it’s here. When it comes to cocktail attire, your bag should not be ludicrously capacious. You should not be able to fit flat shoes for the subway in it, nor your lunch pail. It should not be able to be used as a vessel for the scores of a successfully completed bank job.
Related: These Are The Best Anti-Trend Underrated Luxury Bag Brands
An event with a cocktail dress code is the ideal time to sport one of those largely impractical teeny tiny bags you’ve been seeing on the gram. While you don’t have to go full Jacquemus Le Chiquito with it, a clutch on a chain (with room for a lipstick, phone, and not much more) is a tried and true option. Alternatively, a silk-satin pouch, sculptural clutch, or embellished top handle bag can inject a playful element into an otherwise classic outfit. If you’re desirous of a bag that actually has some use during the daytime, a small shoulder bag will do the trick here.
6. Cocktail dress code accessories
Ah, cocktail jewellery. When it comes to the cocktail dress code, jewellery is the one element that essentially has no rules. While simple or dainty jewellery is never out of place, historically, it’s the bigger and bolder the better. The not-so-humble cocktail ring is a good place to start; look for styles with geometric shapes and colourful stones. Earrings also work to accentuate the face and make an outfit look ‘complete’; go all out with dramatic gold hoops, sparkly drop earrings, or statement ear cuffs.
Words by T. Angel
