The inextricable link between scent and memory has long been acknowledged. The term ‘Proust phenomenon’ or ‘Proust memory’ refers to the evocation of an autobiographical memory through sensory stimuli; inspired by French author Marcel Proust’s fictional account of how inhaling the scent of a madeline cookie dipped in tea prompted him to recall seemingly forgotten aspects of his childhood.
The unique relationship between scent and our minds lies in the way the brain processes it. Unlike the other senses, scent enters the brain through the frontal cortex and bypasses the thalamus, travelling directly to the olfactory bulbs in the brain. This part of the brain is directly connected to the amygdala and hippocampus (the limbic system), which are responsible for dealing with memories and emotions.
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The fragrance industry is now working to tap into the latter, with the advent of ‘functional fragrances’ (and by extension, ‘wellness fragrances’) that purport to influence your mood from an energetic standpoint. All while smelling good, of course.
According to a report by the Global Wellness Institute, the global wellness industry was valued at USD$5.6 trillion last year, with personal care and beauty products accounting for USD$1.089 trillion of that. So, it’s no wonder that the wellness industry is tapping into the emotional side of scent, with a new breed of fragrances going beyond traditional scent design and working to speak directly to our cognitive state.
While conventional fragrances are designed with scent aesthetics in mind—whether it’s evoking a feeling, telling a story, or simply channelling a certain fragrance note—functional fragrances are formulated to influence one’s mood, emotions, state of mind, and even cognitive function. Although this sounds a touch like aromatherapy, functional fragrances don’t exclusively use essential oils in their blends. Instead, they utilise the principles of aromachology—the field that studies the influence of odours on human behaviour and examines the relationship between scents and our feelings and emotions—to select (often natural) scent notes to cultivate a certain emotional state.
Supplement label The Nue Co was among the first to bring the concept of functional fragrances to the mainstream, with its aptly named Functional Fragrance acting as an olfactory supplement to instantly destress the mind. Formulated using research from the University of Geneva’s Brain & Behaviour Laboratory, Functional Fragrance contains notes of green cardamom, coriander, and bergamot to create a green, woody scent.
Since the debut of its unique ‘fragrance supplement’ category in 2018, The Nue Co has launched Mind Energy, Water Therapy, and Forest Lungs. The latter is an eminently popular scent that harnesses the psychological and physiological benefits of being in green spaces. It’s formulated with vetiver, cedarwood, pinewood, and the pièce de résistance, a patented olfactory technology designed to replicate phytoncides; the organic compounds produced by trees that are believed to reduce stress and anxiety. Water Therapy aims to achieve a similar effect by tapping into the benefits of blue spaces (i.e. water), while Mind Energy uses fresh, spicy notes of clary sage, pink peppercorn, and clove to stimulate the neural pathways to boost focus and clear brain fog.
Newer to the market is Vyrao, a ‘high vibration fragrance’ brand that seeks to fuse energetic healing with perfumery. Incorporating organic plant and flower essences into its formulas, each of Vyrao’s fragrances cultivates a different mood based on neuroscientific principles and holistic healing, informed by founder Yasmin Sewell’s experience with reiki and integrative quantum medicine (a practice devised by healer Louise Mitta that combines Traditional Chinese Medicine techniques, Qi Gong, anatomical studies, and quantum theory to ‘release’ energy blockages).
Taking a vibey approach to both its scents and the bottles that house them, each Vyrao fragrance is designed to evoke a certain mood. Witchy Woo aims to foster courage and creativity through an earthy blend of orris, rose, and frankincense; while Free 00 encourages liberation and sensuality through a fresh blend of lemon, mandarin, jasmine, vanilla, and sandalwood.
In a similar vein, Edeniste markets itself as an ‘active wellness fragrance’ brand, with its Lifeboost range designed in collaboration with neuroscientists. The range comprises six scents—helpfully named Dream, Wellbeing, Seduction, Relax, Energy, and Happiness—which incorporate olfactive molecules that have been shown to impact an individual’s olfactory pathways and limbic system. Happiness (the fragrance) is a woody fruity floral with notes of mango, raspberry, and watermelon, underscored by cedarwood — and, it features a patented ‘happiness accord’ that works to activate the brain’s reward pathway, promoting an inner feeling of happiness.
While indie brands have pioneered functional fragrance, beauty conglomerates and celebrity beauty brands alike are getting in on the trend. Industry giant Estée Lauder—which has since acquired a minority stake in the aforementioned Vyrao—released eight fragrances under its Luxury Collection range, each created based on the findings of an independent neurosensorial study commissioned by Estée Lauder that captured consumers’ conscious and subconscious emotional responses to fragrances. Though less overt in their marketing, the scents aim to stimulate certain emotions in their wearers; Paradise Moon promotes happiness and confidence, while Tender Light evokes joy and positivity.
In the celebrity space, an unlikely entrant into the functional fragrance category comes in the form of Addison Rae Fragrances. The TikToker’s Gen Z-oriented water-based scents—with names like Happy AF, Chill AF, and Passionate AF—aim to promote the feelings of their monikers and are housed in heat-sensitive colour-changing bottles. And, as part of her pivot from cocaine queen to wellness goddess, Kate Moss’ lifestyle brand Cosmoss contains a Sacred Mist, created by a homoeopath and designed to “uplift your aura.”
As with most concepts that target the psyche, it’s down to the wearer to decide whether functional fragrance really ‘works’. However, with both the wellness and beauty industry continuing to head in a growth trajectory, we expect to be seeing a lot more functional fragrances enter the market.
Words by Arabella Johnson
