Modern problems require modern solutions which sometimes create…more modern problems? Though by now we’re all acquainted with the importance of mask wearing to prevent the spread of infection, the one thing that’s difficult to get used to is the maskne that accompanies it. With mask wearing now mandatory in indoor and many outdoor settings, the concept of maskne has reentered our collective consciousness (and unfortunately, settled itself on many of our chins and jawlines).
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What is maskne?
Although the concept of maskne was spawned in early 2020, it actually refers to a medical condition that dates back to 1975; acne mechanica. “Acne mechanica is something that traditionally is most commonly seen in soldiers and athletes wearing tight-fitting protective equipment,” explains Dr. Scott Ellis, medical director at Qr8 Mediskin.
“The friction, heat, and lack of breathability of their protective equipment caused a dermatological condition that looks identical to common acne, but has different underlying causes. Since it was first described there has been little interest in studying and understanding the disease, but this has changed recently with the sharp increase in case numbers caused by prolonged mask-wearing.”
Why does maskne occur?
“When wearing a mask for long periods of time on a regular basis, our facial skin is exposed to three main factors that cause maskne – increased relative humidity, increased temperature, and mechanical friction,” explains Dr Ellis.
If you’ve noticed that wearing a mask over your mouth and nose doubles as a personal heater, you’re not alone. However, the increased temperature within the mask can contribute to inflammation and acne, with the skin’s sebum production increasing in line with the temperature, becoming trapped in the skin and resulting in blocked pores.
Along with higher temperatures, humidity levels under masks can also be higher, which Dr Ellis explains results in the overgrowth of certain bacteria and fungi that live on our skin and causes a microbiome imbalance. “Compounding the developing inflammation in the skin, areas where the mask rubs on our skin disrupts the protective skin barrier and further creates swelling & inflammation,” says Dr. Ellis. “This feeds into the cycle created by the humidity & temperature increases, worsening the situation.”
“The overall result is the development of red bumps, blackheads/whiteheads, and pimples that are typical of acne mechanica,” summarises Dr. Ellis, adding that the effects of mask wearing can be seen in the worsening of other skin conditions like rosacea and perioral dermatitis.
How can you tell whether your acne is maskne?
Often, it’s easy to differentiate between traditional acne and maskne, with Dr. Ellis noting that dead giveaways include breakouts only occurring in the areas covered by your mask; breakouts that are worse in high-friction areas like the cheeks and bridge of your nose; and the condition of your skin improving during periods you haven’t worn a mask.
How to prevent maskne
There are myriad ways to prevent acne from forming and treat pre-existing maskne.
1. Change your mask regularly
While the use of masks and face coverings play a crucial role in helping manage the transmission of COVID-19, it’s important to wash and change your mask regularly; keeping your mask clean is essential to avoid the development of acne-causing bacteria. Another consideration is the detergent you use; opt for a laundry wash that is free from potential irritants to avoid exacerbating or triggering any potential allergies.
Dr. Ellis also recommends taking a short break from mask wearing if it’s safe to do so, to let your skin breathe during the day, adding that those with oily skin “may wish to wipe away excess surface sebum with micellar water or a gentle face wipe.”
2. Ditch the makeup
If there’s ever a good opportunity to ease up on the makeup, it’s when half your face is covered. Dr Ellis recommends not wearing makeup under your mask, as it can increase the likelihood of skin congestion and irritation.
3. Pare back your skincare routine
Although any sign of a breakout often has us reaching for the heavy duty AHAs and BHA, Dr Scott advises against overusing skincare actives that can potentially result in stripping the skin and impairing the skin barrier. “For most people the best approach is to simplify back your skincare to a gentle cleanser appropriate for your skin type, a high-quality sunscreen and a simple, non-fragranced moisturiser,” says Dr. Ellis.
4. Look for products that support the skin barrier
“One of the main issues in acne mechanica is impairment of the skin barrier,” says Dr. Ellis. So, keeping the skin well moisturised and supporting the skin barrier is key to preventing the development of maskne. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, centella asticia, and antioxidants.
The best skincare products to prevent and treat maskne
1. Skinstitute Gentle Cleanser
A cleanser that purifies the skin and removes bacteria and build-up accumulated over the course of the day without stripping or drying out the skin is a must-have. Enriched with goji berry, green tea, aloe vera, and vitamin E, the Skinstitute Gentle Cleanser removes makeup and dirt without leaving skin feeling dry or tight.
2. Paula’s Choice Pore Normalizing Cleanser
Gentle exfoliation with salicylic acid helps prevent acne formation by unclogging and decongesting pores, and preventing the excess sebum that contributes to acne. The Paula’s Choice Pore Normalizing Cleanser cleanses skin of surface debris and eliminates excess oil without drying out the skin, making it the ideal second step in a double cleanse routine.
3. Boost Lab Blemish Rescue Serum
Made with niacinamide and zinc PCA, the Boost Lab Blemish Rescue Serum works to regulate sebum production and reduce the occurrence of breakouts and acne, while strengthening the skin barrier.
4. Sensori+ Freshshield Mask Sanitiser
An oh-so 2020 product, the Sensori+ Freshshield Mask Sanitiser combines natural sugarcane alcohol with salicylic acid in a spray formula. Designed to be sprayed directly onto your mask, it works to eliminate bacteria and toxins from your mask while reducing the occurrence of breakouts. Plus, the soft lime and cedarwood scent works to counteract any unpleasant breath smells and make mask wearing an overall more pleasant experience.
5. Bioderma Sensibo H2O Micellar Water Cleanser
This French pharmacy favourite is perfect for wiping off makeup and debris as a first cleanse in a double cleanse routine, or for use during the day to remove excess sebum from the skin’s surface.
6. Selfless by Hyram Salicylic Acid & Sea Kelp Pore Clearing & Oil Control Serum
Made with 0.5% salicylic acid, this serum aids in moderating sebum production without drying out the skin, with succinic acid reducing the formation of acne-causing bacteria and sea kelp helping to soothe the skin. Ideal for use all over the face or as a spot treatment.
Words by AR Staff
Feature image courtesy of Mert & Marcus for Playboy
