While Gucci and Versace are household names, Italy’s sartorial contributions extend far further than mainstream designer brands. When it comes to tailoring, Italy reigns supreme with sartorially-minded individuals around the world debating the various merits of Florentine, Neapolitan, and Milanese styles.
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However, Italian menswear doesn’t stop at tailoring, with the best Italian menswear brands working to combine heritage techniques with both timeless and contemporary styles, catering to not only fans of classic tailoring, but also those who gravitate towards streetwear. Appealing in their nonchalance, the best Italian menswear brands prioritise exemplary craftsmanship and high-quality materials, with centuries-old brands and emerging designers alike making their mark on the contemporary menswear scene. In addition to the sartorial side, Italian brands are also revered for their footwear and leather goods, exemplified by the likes of Tod’s, Velasca, and Fracap.
Embodying the concept of sprezzatura — or unstudied carelessness — central to the allure of the southern European nation, these are the Italian menswear brands you need to know about.
1. Brioni
Founded in Rome in 1945, Brioni is one of the most prestigious menswear brands in the world. Brioni was instrumental in modernising the tailoring process during the mid to late 20th century, hosting the first-ever men’s fashion show in 1952 and subsequently introducing improved production facilities that increased output without compromising on quality. Today, Brioni is known for its sharp, slim-cut suiting and slick tailoring and remains synonymous with status and elegance. Favoured by the stealth wealth crowd, the Roman luxury fashion house maintains a commitment to luxurious fabrics and striking silhouettes.
Founder: Nazareno Fonticoli
2. Loro Piana
If it’s cashmere you want, it’s Loro Piana you should seek. Founded in 1924, the Milanese fashion house famed for its beautifully soft cashmere and is widely regarded as one of the purveyors of fine textiles in the world. Much like Brioni and Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana is known for its classic, flattering cuts crafted from fine materials. Its offering spans menswear and womenswear, with the former encompassing ready-to-wear and footwear. Highlights from the brand include technical outerwear, cashmere blazer separates, and a vast array of unbelievably soft knitwear.
Founder: Pietro Loro Piana
3. Brunello Cucinelli
Alongside Loro Piana and Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli rounds out the holy trinity of understated luxury Italian menswear brands. Founded in 1978 by Brunello Cucinelli, the eponymous label is known for what Cucinelli describes as ‘sportivo chic’, a look that encompasses draped cardigans or crew necks (cashmere, of course) and a linen shirt worn over softly tailored trousers. Like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli is also known for its cashmere, with its founder becoming known as the ‘king of cashmere’. Pieces are designed to get better with age; a Brunello Cucinelli suit is one that will last a lifetime.
Founder: Brunello Cucinelli
4. Tod’s
Never underestimate the power of good leather loafers. Every man needs at least one set of loafers in his wardrobe, and if you only ever buy a single pair, let them be from Tod’s. Founded in 1900, the brand is most well-known for its Gommino loafers, which exemplify stunning attention to detail; up to 35 pieces of leather are used in a single shoe, with over 100 steps going into the creation of the quintessential footwear staple. The brand has since expanded into other leather goods and ready-to-wear with a modern minimalist aesthetic, but its still its driving shoes and loafers that are a standout.
Founders: Filippo Della Valle, Dorino Della Valle
5. Zegna
Formerly known as Ermenegildo Zegna, the eponymous brand was founded in a commune northeast of Turin in 1910. Zegna began operating as a wool mill before expanding to ready-made suiting in the mid-20th century. Today, Zegna is known for its high-quality fabrics and innovative approach to menswear; offering collections that fuse leisurewear with tailoring. Collaborations with Jerry Lorenzo’s Fear of God and outfitting football club Real Madrid have helped cement the venerable fashion house as a key player in the contemporary menswear market.
Founder: Ermenegildo Zegna
6. Canali
Established in 1934 by brothers Giovanni and Giacomo Canali, the Italian label is known for its contemporary take on tailoring as well as its outerwear. Today, Canali has altered its approach to suiting, opting for a more relaxed yet still refined take on menswear; think suiting separates teamed with knitwear, suit sets with sneakers, and outdoorsy items paired with wide-leg trousers.
Founders: Giovanni Canali, Giacomo Canali
7. Kiton
Founded in 1968 by Ciro Paone, Kiton is revered for its approach to Neapolitan tailoring. While today many heritage brands have moved towards more industrialised production methods, Kiton still does things the traditional way: with skilled tailors. Each Kiton garment can pass through the hands of over a hundred multi-skilled tailors, with each step of the production process performed the old-fashioned way. Kiton’s late founder Ciro Paone was committed to preserving the art of tailoring, leading to the creation of the Kiton Tailoring School in 2000, which nurtures the next generation of tailors. You can’t go wrong with a Kiton suit, however, we’d also recommend perusing the Neapolitan tailor’s selection of trousers and patterned knitwear.
Founder: Ciro Paone
8. Pal Zileri
Created in the 1980s under the company Forall Confezioni SpA, Pal Zileri was conceived as a commitment to traditional menswear tailoring. Offering both causal and formal attire, each garment balances traditional Italian design with innovative cuts and concepts. Compared to some of the more heritage Italian fashion houses, Pal Zileri suiting offers a more affordable option.
Founder: Forall Confezioni SpA
9. Corneliani
Italian menswear brand Corneliani was founded in Mantua in 1930 and has since become best known for its sportscoats and suits. Look to Corneliani for its tailored trousers, outerwear, and sportscoats.
Founders: Carlalberto Corneliani, Claudio Corneliani
10. Bottega Veneta
One of the heritage Italian brands that have managed to garner a cult-like following well into the contemporary era, Bottega Veneta was initially founded as a leather goods atelier in Vicenza in 1966. Originally known for its woven handbag designs, Bottega Venetta expanded into ready-to-wear in the 1990s with the following decade seeing the Italian fashion house undergo a stylistic revamp under creative director Tomas Maier and become lauded for its ‘stealth wealth’ approach. Subsequent collections under Daniel Lee and Matthieu Blazy have been similarly well-received, with the latter debuting with a collection that showcased the brand’s leather savoir-faire. Since 2022, Bottega Veneta has offered a lifetime guarantee on all its handbags, displaying its commitment to a ‘made forever’ leather craftsmanship.
Founders: Renzo Zengiaro, Michele Taddei
11. Prada
Founded in 1913 by Mario Prada, Milanese brand Prada remains in the family to this day, now overseen by its eponymous founder’s granddaughter Miuccia Prada, despite Mario initially preventing female family members from playing a role in the business. Originally a leather goods company, Prada expanded into nylon handbags and backpacks in the late 1970s; a material for which the brand is now known. Released in 1998, Prada’s first ready-to-wear menswear collection was a success, lauded for its clean lines, neutral colours, and decadent fabrics. Today, Prada menswear is known for both its slick, contemporary casual and formal pieces; look to the brand for nylon jackets, wool suiting, and experimental seasonal releases.
Founder: Mario Prada
12. Giorgio Armani
There’s no overstating the role Giorgio Armani has played in irrevocably shifting the menswear landscape since founding his eponymous label in 1975. Prior to the 1980s, men’s suiting was rigid and angular, defined by staid formality. Giorgio Armani started the decade by creating the ultimate power suit; with a nipped waist and shoulder pads, the silhouette was sported by Richard Gere in American Gigolo and soon after, in soft cream and pastel hues by Don Johnson in Miami Vice. However, the stock market crash later that decade saw Giorgio Armani take a new, more relatable approach, blurring the lines between casualwear and formalwear. Shoulder pads were shunned in favour of relaxed cuts and almost floppy fabric, with the new Giorgio Armani style epitomising effortless elegance. For best results, skip the subbrands like Emporio Armani or Armani Exchange and opt for classic Armani.
Founders: Giorgio Armani, Sergio Galeotti
13. Rubinacci
For true Neopolitan sprezzatura, turn to Rubinacci. Founded by Gennaro Rubinacci in 1932, Rubinacci is for those who aren’t afraid to embrace a little colour and flair. With Rubinacci the devil is in the details, with many of the brand’s blazers lined with silk and printed with dramatic baroque scenes. Family-owned and run to this day, look to Rubinacci for printed scarves and pocket squares, statement suiting (think colourful velvet), and loafers.
Founder: Gennaro Rubinacci
14. Aspesi
Founded in 1969, Aspesi is a brand for guys who are more likely to be found traversing a mountain than navigating the concrete jungle. Focused on what its founder Alberto Aspesi terms ‘normal’ clothes, Aspesi pieces combine Italian cuts and craftsmanship with technical materials, creating utilitarian garments designed to weather any storm.
Founder: Alberto Aspesi
15. Fracap
Founded in 1908 by Antonio Cappello, Italian label Fracap’s hiking boots have been produced by the same bloodline for over a century. Fracap boots are made with vegetable-tanned leather at the family’s factory in Puglia, Italy. Instantly recognisable by its iconic red laces, Fracap boots utilise traditional bootmaking techniques, while experimenting with contemporary elements. Today, the brand also produces high-end leather sandals and casual shoes.
Founder: Antonio Cappello
16. Velasca
A relative newcomer to the Italian menswear scene, footwear brand Velasca was founded in 2013 by Enrico Casati and Jacopo Sebastio who shared a desire to offer high-quality Italian-made footwear at fair prices. From monk straps and oxfords to loafers and pared-back sneakers, each pair of Velasca shoes employs a timeless aesthetic and is designed to look just as good in a decade or two as it does today.
Founders: Enrico Casati, Jacopo Sebastio
17. Diemme
While Fracap holds the record for the oldest Italian brand specialising in leather hiking boots, Diemme’s offering is not to be overlooked. Founded in 1992, family-owned Italian footwear label Diemme has been producing high-end footwear for the likes of Chanel, Bottega Venetta, and Maison Margiela in addition to its own in-house selection. Taking a contemporary and often avant-garde approach to hiking boots, Diemme isn’t afraid to employ quirky touches like leopard prints, coloured panels, and chunky rubber soles.
Founders: Dennis Signor, Maico Signor
Words by Theo Rosen
Feature image courtesy of Brett Lloyd for Brioni
