The Japanese watch industry is one of duality. After Switzerland, it’s arguably the most well-known watchmaking nation, that reputation comes courtesy of its three most prolific companies: Casio, Citizen, and Seiko. The latter of that trio was responsible for causing the quartz crisis of the 1970s by creating the first quartz wristwatch (with Seiko beating out the likes of Omega, Piaget, and Patek Philippe, each of whom were also vying for the title, we should add).
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That said, there are a number of independent Japanese watchmakers who release just a handful of hotly coveted timepieces a year, which — much like the nation’s whisky industry — results in supply being nowhere near able to keep up with demand. Often crafting every component by hand, these independent watchmakers are diametrically opposed to the mass-market brands the country is perhaps best known for.
However, there’s also beauty in the space in between, with Japanese watchmaking known for its fastidious attention to detail, prioritisation of high-quality craftsmanship, unique design perspectives, and often, its unbeatable value propositions.
History of Japanese watchmaking
The Japanese horological industry can be traced back to the mid-16th century, coinciding with the arrival of Christian missionaries who taught Japanese locals how to make clocks, organs, and astronomical instruments. The first mechanical clock in Japan is thought to have been brought into the country in 1951 by Spanish missionary Francisco de Xavier who presented it to Ōuchi Yoshitaka of the Suō Province (now part of the Yamaguchi Prefecture).
A long period of national isolation resulted in Japanese clockmaking based on a ‘temporal hour system’ wherein the day was divided into daytime and nightime in accordance with sunrise and sunset, with six segments for each. These clocks are known as wadokei.
In 1872, Japan adopted the solar calendar and used a fixed hour system, resulting in the adoption of western clockmaking techniques. In 1894, the Osaka Tokei Manufacturing Company began to produce pocket watches with lever escapements under the guidance of an American engineer. The first wristwatch — dubbed the ‘Laurel’ — in Japan was created in 1913 by Kintaro Hattori, founder of Seiko. Wristwatches were produced from the 1920s until the onset of World War II, when production ceased.
The watchmaking industry recovered in 1956, when the first domestic self-winding (automatic) wristwatches were released. Previously considered a relatively expensive item, wristwatches became a necessary accessory. In 1969, Seiko released the world’s first quartz watch, the Quartz Astron 35SQ, precipitating the quartz crisis of the 1970s and irrevocably altering the watchmaking industry as a whole.
The best Japanese watch brands in 2023
From the big three — and their many subsidiaries — to niche independents, these are the best Japanese watch brands to know about.
1. Casio
While Casio is now best known for its watches (as well as its calculators, which are a highschool classroom staple), the company was founded in 1946 by Tadao Kashio whose debut product was a yubiwa pipe (essentially a ring cigarette holder…google it). The following decade saw the company expand into calculators, however, it wasn’t until 1974 that Casio released its first watch, the Casiotron QW02 (quartz, of course).
The success of the debut watch was followed up with the rugged G-Shock and later, the Baby G. Affordable and reliable, Casio is known for its fun factor, as well as the incorporation of unexpected functions. Think the VBD-1000 touchscreen watch which featured an organizer and notebook; the CMD-40 which used infrared to control TVs and VCRs; and the UV-700 which was equipped with a ultraviolet light sensor to help promote sun safety. Ahead of their time, they were the OG smartwatches. Meanwhile, the G-Shock MR-G lineup celebrates Japanese history with watches that reference traditional Japanese arts, crafts, and design.
Today, Casio’s vintage-inspired line of digital watches are failsafe pieces, though they’re largely overshadowed by the G-Shock line, which continues to grow in popularity thanks to its full metal releases and celebrity collaborations (which include the likes of Ed Sheeran and John Mayer).
Established in: 1946
Founder: Tadao Kashio
Best for: digital watches, rugged watches, nostalgia, entry-level watches
Notable collections: Casio Vintage, G-Shock Full Metal, Casio Pop, G-Shock MR-G
2. Citizen
Citizen was initially founded as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute in 1918 by Kamekichi Yamazaki, who began using Swiss precision equipment to make his own movements. The company was used as a basis for the industrial production of mechanical timepieces in Japan and became so successful that by 1930 it was acquired by businessman Yasaburo Nakajima and renamed Citizen. However, prior to that, Yamazaki released a pocket watch with the name ‘Citizen’ on the dial.
Alongside Seiko, Citizen spearheaded the use of highly accurate quartz movements in the 1970s, taking it a step further by developing the world’s first solar-powered analog quartz watch. This invention paved the way for the brand’s Eco-Drive technology, which powers many Citizen watches today. In 2019, the Citizen Watch Company released the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, a quartz movement with an annual accuracy of +/-1 second, making it the most accurate movement produced.
Compared to fellow behemoths Casio and Seiko (and by extension, Grand Seiko), Citizen designs take on a more global aesthetic, with rugged lines like the Promaster Dive balanced out by classic designs like the Calendrier and Eco-Drive One
Established in: 1918
Founder: Kamekichi Yamazaki
Best for: dive watches, classic watches, entry-level watches
Notable models: Promaster Skyhawk, Promaster Dive, Eco-Drive One, Series 8 GMT
3. Seiko
Founded in Tokyo in 1881 by Kintarō Hattori, Seiko was initially named K. Hattori and started as a shop selling and repairing watches and clocks. Just over a decade later, Hattori began producing clocks through his own brand Seikosha — which translates to ‘House of Exquisite Workmanship’ — before changing the name to Seiko in 1924. Hattori created the first Japanese wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1912.
With an entry- to mid-level price point, the current Seiko range spans sports and dress watches. The former category is a standout, with its Prospex divers and 5 Sport lines making for unbeatable value propositions. That said, its Presage dress watches are not to be overlooked; merging Japanese aesthetics with well over a century of watchmaking tradition. For something a little more off-kilter, look to the Presage Cocktail Time lineup, which draws inspiration from classic libations.
Established in: 1881
Founder: Kintarō Hattori
Best for: sports watches, dress watches, dive watches
Notable collections: Prospex, Presage, 5 Sports
4. Orient
Known for its automatic and manual-winding mechanical movements, Orient watches punch well above their weight. Orient, as we know it today, was founded in 1950, though its history dates back to 1901 with the founding of Yoshida Watch Shop by Shogoro Yoshida. In 1967, it developed the Fineness, which at the time was the thinnest automatic watch with a day-date complication.
Orient is often recommended as the first port of call for those looking to delve into the world of ‘real’ (read: mechanical) watches. Its most popular timepiece is the Bambino, an automatic three-hand dress watch that boasts classic styling.
Established in: 1950
Founder: Shogoro Yoshida
Best for: dress watches, mechanical movements
Notable models: Bambino
5. Grand Seiko
No, we’re not repeating ourselves here. Launched in 1960 as Seiko’s assertion that it could produce watches at the same calibre—if not better than—luxury offerings from Switzerland, Grand Seiko became an independent brand in 2017 and now has completely separate leadership, design, and production processes.
While their appearance is often sombre at first glance, when it comes to Grand Seiko watches, there’s more than meets the eye. The cases and bracelets of Grand Seiko timepieces boast impeccable finishings, with the manufacture known for its Zaratsu polishing which is executed by skilled artisans. Meanwhile, the dials often draw inspiration from the multifaceted Japanese landscape; from sakura blossoms and snowflakes to forests and birch trees.
From a price point perspective, Grand Seiko timepieces offer incredible value for money; sitting at the entry-level luxury mark, their in-house movements, beautifully textured dials, and case finishings are at par with watches more than twice their price.
Established in: 1960
Founding company: Seiko
Best for: dress watches, classic watches, dial artistry, in-house movements
Notable models: SBGA011, SBGA413, SBGH271, SLGA009
6. Credor
The last from the Seiko family, we promise! Perhaps the most overlooked of Seiko’s sub-brands, Credor is the most quintessentially Japanese of the lot. Rather than catering to industry trends or consumer tastes, Credor watches represent thoughtful interpretations of Japanese culture and showcase Seiko’s savoir-faire and craftsmanship.
A pared-back aesthetic coupled with impeccable execution has garnered Credor respect in niche horological circles. Perhaps best exemplifying this approach is the Eichi; crafted from precious metals by master watchmakers, it features hand-painted indices atop a porcelain dial whose shade reflects the snowy landscapes of winter in the mountainous region of Shiojiri in the Nagaon Prefecture. Each case is polished by hand, the hands and case-back screws are blued by hand, and the movement is decorated by hand.
Established in: 1974
Founding company: Seiko
Best for: dress watches, craftsmanship, traditional Japanese aesthetic
Notable models: Eichi
7. Minase
A comparatively new player in the Japanese watch industry, Minase has made a name for itself thanks to its meticulously handcrafted dials that pay homage to the nation’s singular culture and landscape — a highlight is the Uruga which features a brush-stroke aesthetic. Minase is also known for its unusual case shapes, such as the Horizon and Windows models. Here, the emphasis is on aesthetic and finishings, with Minase timepieces powered by Swiss ETA movements.
Established in: 2005
Founding company: Kyowa and Co.
Best for: beautiful dials, interesting cases, craftsmanship
Notable models: Uruga, Horizon
8. Kurono Tokyo
Boasting a singularly Japanese sensibility, a cursory glance is all it takes to ascertain the nation Kurono Tokyo watches hail from. Kurono Tokyo watches combine the design prowess of its founder, master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, with Miyota movements; thus making traditional Japanese techniques (such as Urushi) and craftsmanship available at an affordable price. That doesn’t mean they’re easy to come by, though. Released in limited quantities, they’re quickly snapped up by those in the know.
Established in: 2018
Founder: Hajime Asaoka
Best for: craftsmanship, Japanese artistry, dress watches
Notable models: Grand Akane, Grand Hagane, Bunkyo Tokyo
9. Hajime Asaoka
While the popularity of Hajime Asaoka’s brand Kurono Tokyo has perhaps eclipsed that of the timepieces he releases eponymously, they’re not to be overlooked. In 2009, Asaoka released Japan’s first watch with an in-house tourbillon, before starting his eponymous brand in 2011. A product designer by trade, Asaoka is a self-taught watchmaker, having learnt the trade from the seminal tome Watchmaking by George Daniels, as well as by watching YouTube videos.
Established in: 2011
Founder: Hajime Asaoka
Best for: mechanical innovation, tourbillons, dress watches
Notable models: Tsunami, Project-T, Chronograph
10. Kuoe
The newest Japanese watch brand on this list. Founded in 2020 Kenji Uchimura, Kuoe draws inspiration from vintage timepieces. Powered by locally sourced Japanese automatic movements, Kuoe watches are equal parts elegant and nostalgic. In keeping with the vintage aesthetic, they feature smaller case sizes and are priced in the low three digits, making them an ideal foray outside the big three Japanese watch brands.
Established in: 2020
Founder: Kenji Uchimura
Best for: vintage aesthetic, dress watches, field watches
Notable models: Old Smith, Royal Smith, Holborn
11. Naoya Hida
Naoya Hida founded his eponymous brand in 2018, following stints at Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, F.P. Journe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Finding elegance in restraint, Naoya Hida err on the classic and conservative side, with smaller case sizes befitting the local market. Purchase is on application, with prices starting at approx. $30,000AUD.
Established in: 2018
Founder: Naoya Hida
Best for: dress watches
Notable models: Type 1
12. Masahiro Kikuno
Like Hajime Asaoka, Masahiro Kikuno also taught himself watchmaking using George Daniels’ book Watchmaking. His debut timepiece was a wristwatch take on a wadokei, a traditional Japanese clock used during the Edo period, before the adoption of western timekeeping methods. Kikuno makes each component by hand, resulting in extremely limited releases exclusively available by request. He’s also the youngest person ever admitted to the prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendant (AHCI).
Established in: 2011
Founder: Masahiro Kikuno
Best for: mechanical innovation
Notable models: Temporal Hour Watch
Other watch brands by country
Join us as we venture out of Switzerland to find the best watch brands in countries often overlooked.
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- The Best British Watch Brands Are Doing Things Differently
Enjoyed this article? Why not check out our Ultimate Guide To Watches here; covering everything from the anatomy of a watch to watch styles and complication
Words by Theo Rosen
