When it comes to the world of watches, there has never been more choice. Since their inception in the early 20th century, (wrist)watches have evolved from objects of necessity into status symbols, with the best watches for men and women acting as wearable forms of self-expression as opposed to mere time-telling devices. Lauded manufactures and emerging microbrands alike are dropping covetable new releases at an almost unfathomable frequency, meaning there’s no shortage of options to choose from. And while ample options are a good thing, it can make it downright confusing to select the right watch.
What’s the difference between quartz and mechanical movements — and why should I care? Is a world timer the same as a GMT? What’s that thing around the dial called? Should I go new or vintage? Does a moonphase serve any real purpose? And why on earth does everyone keep talking about the submarine from Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea?
The horological world can often seem very IYKYK, making it a difficult one to navigate. That’s why we’ve put together the Albert Review Ultimate Watch Guide. Spanning both men’s and women’s styles, our guide to watches covers everything from the basic anatomy of a watch to the common (and several uncommon) types of horological complications and key watch styles to know about. Laden with terminology breakdowns and buyer’s guides, it contains everything you need to kickstart your watch journey or expand your horological knowledge. Whether you’re wondering what a tourbillon is or simply looking to add a new daily beater to your collection, you’ll find it in our comprehensive watch guide.
Watch essentials
Before we delve into the world of complications or get into the best watches for men and women, let’s unpack the basics.
Anatomy of a watch
Can’t tell your crown from your pushers? While there are numerous types of watches on the market, regardless of whether you’re sporting a dress watch, dive watch, chronograph, or even a grand complication, all watches share certain fundamental characteristics. Here, we break down the different parts of a watch; enabling you to enter into and engage in horological conversations with ease.
Types of watch case shapes
While round watches are the most common, watch brands are continually thinking outside the circle. From square and rectangular to tonneau and cushion, these are the different kinds of watch case shapes to know about.
Mechanical vs quartz movements
When it comes to watches, what’s on the inside is equally as important. Here, we run through the different types of watch movements, from manual and automatic to quartz. Plus, we dive into what a ‘manufacture movement’ really means.
Types of rotors in automatic watch movements
All automatic watch movements have a rotor, which serves an indispensable function. As you move, the rotor (also known as an oscillating weight or mass) swings in a circle which works to wind the watch. They can typically be found on the back of the watch movements, with the three main types being traditional central rotors, micro-rotors, and peripheral rotors.
Types of watches
Painting in the most broad strokes possible, watches can be broken down into two (again, very broad!) categories: dress and sport. Rolex calls these ‘classic’ or ‘professional’, while others might term them ‘form’ and ‘function’. Regardless of the vernacular employed, dress watches tend to take on slimmer profiles, are often crafted from precious materials, and lend themselves to more refined pursuits. Meanwhile, sports watches are more robust and often purpose-built, incorporating activity-specific features (think water resistance on a dive watch or a chronograph function on a motorsports watch). Here, you’ll find guides to the key types of watches along with the best styles to buy at every price point.
Dress watches
The definition of what constitutes a dress watch is constantly in flux. Take the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, for example. Upon its release in 1931, it was designed for and marketed towards polo players, however you’d be hard-pressed to find someone calling the red carpet staple a sports watch today. Regardless, one thing is certain: every man needs a good dress watch. While sports watches have been dominating the horological spotlight over the past few years, dress watches are present in the lineup of pretty much every luxury watch manufacture and brand—from Rolex and Audemars Piguet to A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin—-and remain stalwart staples. While they’re natural fits for suits, formalwear, and businesswear, the best dress watches for men also create an interesting juxtaposition with streetwear and make for an interesting talking point.
Dive watches
On the opposite end of the style spectrum, dive watches are a functional necessity for few and a (highly) covetable commodity for many. While many of the dive watches worn by the soft-handed investment bankers, hedge fund managers, and lawyers of today are unlikely to see more than a splash, there’s still a certain appeal that accompanies the knowledge that they could fare well a couple of hundred metres below sea level.
Their utilitarian origins mean true dive watches must meet certain guidelines, including being water resistant (duh) to 100m, being able to measure time to a minimum of 60 minutes, and possessing a highly legible dial with a visibility from 25cm in total darkness. Two of the most well known references are the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner, however you needn’t drop five figures to acquire a good dive watch. The best dive watches run the gamut from luxury to affordable, with viable options at every price point.
Pilot’s watches
Another style of timepiece with decidedly utilitarian origins, pilot’s watches were largely born out of necessity during WWII, though the first true pilot’s watch (and also the first wristwatch for men!) was the Cartier Santos, designed by Louis Cartier for his friend, pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, in 1904. While actual pilots no longer rely on pilot’s watches to time and navigate their flights, the style of watch retains its functional appeal.
With their origins in the military, commercial, and recreational aviation, their multifaceted history means there is no one definition of a pilot’s watch, with the category a rather varied one. However, the term is often used to connote the highly legible military designs brought about by WWII, characterised by their large Arabic numerals, oversized crowns, black or dark dials, and luminescent coatings. Our guide to the best pilot’s watches for men and women spans a wide range of aesthetic options, from a colourful take by British microbrand Farer to classic styles by IWC, Archimede, and Hamilton.
Field watches
Like dive watches and pilot’s watches, field watches are a decidedly functional style. However, unlike other sports watch styles, field watches tend to skew smaller (think 36 to 38mm cases), making them an eminently wearable style for men and women alike. Designed with durability and legibility in mind, the best field watches for men are devoid of complications and tell the time in a no-nonsense manner. While their nature is ideally suited to outdoor pursuits like hiking and camping, their pared-back dials and robust construction also allow them to serve as daily drivers for corporate types.
Steel sports watches
In the horological world, the least costly metal is also the most covetable, with the waiting lists (and secondary market prices) for steel sports watches far surpassing demand for white gold, yellow gold, bronze, and platinum timepieces. While term ‘sports watch’ is often used as a catchall for dive, pilot’s, and field watches, generalist sports watches are characterised by their robust construction and ability to withstand shocks, impact, and extreme temperatures. Sports watches typically feature a high water resistance (above 10ATM/100 metres), allowing them to be worn swimming, sailing, or diving.
The steel sports watch is one of the most sought after types of watches, with the most notable examples being the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. While these two are infamously difficult to acquire, there are several equally as worthy timepieces from the likes of Girard-Perregaux, IWC, and Zenith that you can actually get around your wrist. Our guide to the best steel sports watches covers both the acquireable and difficult-to-acquire timepieces from our favourite luxury watchmakers.
Skeleton watches
Watches have always left a little something to the imagination. Namely, the mechanical movements powering them. The best skeleton watches (also known as open-worked watches) put the movement on full display, stripping the movement of excess metal and letting the dial serve as a window into the gears, wheels, and bridges that make your watch tick. An opportunity for luxury watch brands to showcase their horological virtuosity, the best skeletonised watches combine mechanical complexity with aesthetic perfection. For that reason, skeleton watches are almost solely the fare of luxury watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Patek Philippe, and Arnold & Son.
Chronometer watches
Chronometer watches are for those who value accuracy above all else. A chronometer is essentially a stamp of approval that indicates that the watch in question is of the highest standard of accuracy. Timepieces that are certified as chronometers have had their movements independently tested and verified by an official organisation (typically the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) and have been deemed worthy of certification.
Watches with chronometer movements can also have other complications like chronographs. A chronometer simply refers to the accuracy of the movement; to be COSC-certified movements must have an average daily deviation of less than -4/+6 seconds a day. Our guide to chronometer watches explains the exact stipulations for certification as well as the best chronometers on the market.
Watches by complication
Watches have long transcended their origins as mere time-telling devices. Many of the best watches for men and women boast complications; some purpose-built, some aesthetic, and some simply for watchmakers to show off. From GMT watches to moonphases and tourbillons, our guides to watch complications delve into what exactly they do and the best ones to cop.
Chronograph watches
Chronograph watches are able to time events with a stopwatch function. While the chronograph was initially introduced to make astronomical calculations before being adopted as a ‘doctor’s watch’, it’s its ties to motorsport (and a certain Paul Newman) that have served to cement its place in the horological cultural lexicon. For that reason, the Rolex Daytona with a panda dial configuration is the most popular chronograph watch, however there are several other viable contenders from luxury watch brands and microbrands alike.
Moonphase watches
Humanity has always looked to the sky for guidance, with ancient civilizations observing the heavenly bodies as the earliest form of timekeeping. There’s a certain romantic fascination associated with the moon, one which horologically translates into the rather poetic moonphase watch. Both a beautiful and impressive mechanical innovation, the moonphase watch is a nod to the inextricable link between the lunar cycle and the history of timekeeping.
Tourbillon watches
Like many beautiful things worth knowing about, the tourbillon is also rather complicated. Fit starters, it’s not actually a complication. The tourbillon was invented by legendary watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795 and patented in 1801, designed as a solution to the issue that pocket watches tended to run a little too fast or too slow depending on the position of the watch.
A tourbillon (French for ‘whirlwind’) is a regulatory mechanism in the form of a rotating mechanical cage that houses the balance wheel, balance spring, and escapement. The tourbillon rotates these components a full 360° (known as a ‘revolution’) once per minute, thus reducing their exposure to gravity. While no longer necessary (as we wear wristwatches, not pocket watches), tourbillons remain cool to look at and are an impressive display of watchmaking expertise.
Chiming watches
From minute repeaters to grand sonneries, the best chiming watches add an auditory element to the telling of time. Chiming watches are exclusive to luxury manufactures — think the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and F.P. Journe — with only the most highly trained and skilled watchmakers able to assemble the highly complex movements. Here, we unpack the different types of chiming watches and the best examples within each category.
World time watches
One of the most useful watch complications, world time watches—also known as world timers—allow you to view the time in all 24 primary time zones. The world-time function was first seen in late 19th century pocket watches, before being patented by independent Swiss watchmaker Louis Cottier in the early 1930s. As watches are no longer the primary timekeeping mechanism for most people, only a small number of manufactures continue to produce watches with world-time functions. But, for those who do, the world-time function is one that continues to impress, with many watchmakers using world timers as a canvas to showcase their artistic flair.
GMT watches
The GMT complication is both applicable to modern day life and more accessible than complications like the worldtimer or chronograph. The simplest travel watch of them all, the GMT does away with the need to whip out your phone (or perform some—albeit basic—mental arithmetic) to work out the time back home. GMT watches display the time in your local time zone, as well as one (or sometimes two, if the watch has a rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale) other time zone. Our guide to GMT watches details everything you need to know about GMT watches, including how they came about, what they actually do, and the best ones to buy.
Jumping hour watches
Jumping hour watches are among the lesser discussed and sought after complications, however they’re no less interesting than their more coveted counterparts. Watches with jumping hour complications defy the norm when it comes to time-telling; rather than gradually moving across the dial every hour, the hour hand will ‘jump’ from one hour to the next as the minute hand reaches 60 minutes. One of the most notable—and striking—examples of a jumping hour watch is the Franck Muller Crazy Hours which does away with convention altogether; the hour numerals are placed in a seemingly haphazard fashion, with the hour hand jumping from one hour to the next in the correct order. Other jumping hour watches opt for digital displays, like the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk and Andersen Genève Jumping Hours.
Retrograde watches
Like jumping hour watches, the best retrograde watches take an unconventional approach to telling the time. A retrograde complication is an indication where the corresponding hand snaps backwards or counterclockwise once it reaches the end, and can be applied to the day, date, month, minutes, seconds, or power reserve — while the latter is popular, retrograde hour and minute complications are more striking due to the frequency with which you can watch the function at work. Retrograde complications are often paired with jumping hour complications. A creative retrograde watch is the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux, which sees lovers (woman for the hours and man for the minutes) meet in the middle of a bridge every midnight (and noon).
Calendar watches
Despite the plethora of functions and aesthetics present in the watch world today, at its core, a watch is designed to tell the time. Building off that tenet, one of the most useful types of timepieces is the calendar watch. Calendar complications range from simple to, well, complicated, with both a date window and a perpetual calendar falling into the category. In this guide, we unpack everything you need to know about the different types of calendar watches.
Watches by style and material
Often, movements and complications play a key role in deciding what kind of watch you’re looking for. That said, sometimes aesthetics are the driving force — and there’s nothing wrong with that. Whether you’re looking to break out of the circle and try a new case shape, are looking for a blingy gold watch, or want something more pared-back, we have you covered with our guides to watches by style and material.
Gold watches
Stainless steel may be the metal du jour, but gold never goes out of style. While gold was traditionally used on dress watches, today the alloy is applied to sport and tool watches too; think chronographs and even divers. With both maximalist diamond-encrusted yellow gold watches and more pared-back timepieces with gold cases on the market, there’s a gold watch for every taste out there.
Stone dial watches
Imbuing horology with a jewellery-like aesthetic, stone dial watches are something to behold. Made with stones with intriguing patterns like malachite, tiger’s eye, and agate as well as monolithic varieties like opal, onyx, and mother-of-pearl, many manufactures crafting stone dial watches tend to eschew indices, numerals, and extraneous complications in favour of creating a smooth, uninterrupted canvas which lets the natural beauty of the gemstones take centre stage.
Square & rectangular watches
Square watches have come back (a)round, with the silhouette simultaneously contemporary and timeless. Both square and rectangular watches exude a rakish sensibility befitting of a gentleman while remaining definitively on-trend. However, it’s not all Cartier Tanks and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reversos, with the best rectangular and square watches for men prove it’s possible to be there and be square. From budget to bougie, these are the best square watches for men.
Asymmetrical watches
Regardless of whether you tend to gravitate towards tool or dress watches, it’s quite likely your watch of choice will be circular and almost certain it will be symmetrical, with most contemporary timepiece experimentation happening beneath the dial. However, watches are equally as much a form of adornment as they are a practical tool, with a niche subset of collectors appreciating unusual watch cases that deviate from the norm. From classic asymmetry to downright weird, these are the best watches with unusual or asymmetrical case shapes.
Minimalist watches
Distilling watches into their purest essence, the best minimalist watches for men and women retain only the essentials. Doing away with unnecessary complications, adornments, and embellishments, you won’t find moon phases or jewelled bezels on a minimalist watch. Instead, minimalist watches will tell you the time — and possibly the date — in a sleek, pared-back format.
The best watch brands
The best luxury watch brands for women
From the outside, the horological world appears to be dominated by men. However, the world’s first wristwatch was actually designed for a woman in 1810 when the Queen of Naples commissioned Breguet to create an ultra-thin repeating watch, oblong in shape, equipped with a thermometer and mounted on a wristlet of hair entwined with gold thread, with the timepiece delivered in 1812. The next woman to opt for a wristwatch was Countess Koscowicz of Hungary who commissioned Patek Philippe to design a jewellery piece that could also act as a watch. The first men’s wristwatch wouldn’t be created until 1904 (the Cartier Santos).
Although technically all watches can be worn by anyone with a wrist, there’s something to be said about watches that are intentionally designed with women in mind. For some brands, the women’s market is an afterthought, however, there are several go-to luxury watch manufactures that have long been catering to women.
The best independent watchmakers in the world
One of the key advantages the best independent watchmakers have over their parent company-owned counterparts is the ability to innovate and invent without boundaries, resulting in them being responsible for some of the most striking horological works of the past few decades. From the venerable forces responsible for record-shattering auction prices and genre defying complications to up-and-coming independent watchmakers set to redefine the industry, these are the names you need to know.
The best watches by country
While Switzerland is unanimously considered the epicentre of horology, there are several other countries with burgeoning (or recovering) watchmaking industries. Whether it’s the small-batch independent watchmakers of Japan or the post war re-establishment in Germany, these are the best watch brands and watchmakers around the world.
The best German watch brands
The story of German watchmaking is an interrupted one, with the watch industry (one of the many) affected by WWII. However, the industry has experienced something of a renaissance, with the best German watch brands including the relaunched A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original, as well as newer independent watchmakers like Kudoke and Alexander Shorokhoff.
The best British watch brands
Britain was once seen as the home of horology, with the nation home to pioneers like master clockmaker Thomas Tompion, inventor of the lever escapement by Thomas Mudge, and inventor of the marine chronometer John Harrison. Much like the master tailors of Savile Row and shoemakers of Northampton, the British watchmaking industry was renowned for its emphasis on traditional methods and impeccable craftsmanship. However that same attention to detail and refusal to compromise on traditional methods saw the British watchmaking industry surpassed by the the Swiss and American watchmaking industries, resulting in a decline in the industry during the 19th century.
However, the British watchmaking industry is experiencing something of a resurgence. This time around, the best British watch brands are defined by their ingenuity and innovation. Brands like Farer and the nascent Studio Underd0g are unafraid to experiment with colour, while husband-and-wife founded Struthers brings back handmade vintage-style watches.
The best Japanese watch brands
The Japanese watch industry is one of duality. Responsible for the invention of quartz (and the subsequent quartz crisis), Japan is home to three of the most prolific watch brands outside Switzerland: Casio, Citizen, and Seiko. Along with Orient, they represent unbeatable value propositions. However, there are a number of independent Japanese watchmakers — like Hajime Asaoka and Naoya Hida — who release just a handful of hotly coveted timepieces a year.
The best Chinese watch brands
The words ‘Chinese watch’ are often uttered in a derisive tone, used somewhat sneeringly to connote cheap manufacturing, mediocre construction, and even ‘fake’ versions of well-known Swiss watches. However, China can not only produce a good mechanical watch, but also supplies reliable movements and parts to both microbrands and traditional watchmaking countries. The Chinese influence on watchmaking isn’t all ‘affordable’ watches and componentry, with the republic home to a fledgling haute horology scene. From the most prolific manufacturer to rising independents, the best Chinese watch brands are changing perceptions of the words ‘made in China’.
Watch accessories
The best coffee table books on watches
The pursuit of horological knowledge is an unending one; while there’s boundless information available on the internet, there’s nothing like going analogue and opening up an actual physical book. From deep dives into lauded manufactures to explorations of the emotional connection between watches and their wearers, these are the best coffee table books about watches.
Words by AR Staff
