Despite their utilitarian nature, even the most steadfast tool watches aren’t immune to the joie de vivre taking over the horological world of late. A portmanteau of ‘navigation’ and ‘timer’, the Breitling Navitimer was invented by Willy Breitling in 1952, with the intention of simplifying a pilot’s calculations while in the air — think timing flight legs and determining fuel consumption. Identifiable by its slide rule around the bezel, the Navitimer went on to become the official timepiece for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) and was spotted on the wrists of celebrities like Serge Gainsbourg and Miles Davis.
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While onboard instruments have eclipsed the technical prowess of the Navitimer, it remains a desirable timepiece for those in and out of the aviation industry. Recognising that the Navitimer’s appeal extends beyond those blessed with ample real estate, Breitling has released the flagship pilot’s watch in new 36mm and 32mm sizes. Dually catering to the small watch trend while uniting function with fun, the new Navitimer 36 and 32 retain the signature slide rule bezel but do away with the chronograph counters. Much like fellow Swiss manufactures Rolex and Omega, Breitling has introduced a series of funky dial colours, alongside white and anthracite for the more classically minded.
The Navitimer 36 features the beaded bezel and slide rule typical of the timepiece, but introduces a lineup of new shades. A trio of stainless steel timepieces feature metallic hues (mint green, silver, and anthracite) and paired with baton indices, while a white mother-of-pearl dial is adorned with lab-grown diamond indices. The latter is available in two-tone rose gold and steel as well as in full ‘traceable’ rose gold. Each timepiece in the collection is fitted with a push-pull crown that guarantees 30 metres of water resistance.
The 36mm timepieces are powered by the automatic COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 movement, which comes with a power reserve of 38 hours.
Meanwhile, the Navitimer 32 is more suited to red carpets than cockpits. Doing away with the slide rule altogether, it’s available with a pastel blue or pink mother-of-pearl dial. Like the Navitimer 36, there are stainless steel, two-tone, and full rose gold variants available. It’s kept ticking by the Breitling Calibre 77, a quartz movement that’s COSC-certified. For anyone planning to take a dip, it’s water resistant to 50 metres.
Both the Navitimer 36 and 32 timepieces are paired with either a seven-link bracelet (in stainless steel, two-tone steel and rose gold, or full rose gold) or an alligator leather strap.
While horological purists will no doubt lament the absence of a chronograph function in a timepiece with a utilitarian heritage — and surely, the 36mm variant could accommodate one — the new Navitimer 36 and 32 are a solid entry point for those looking to partake in the colourful watch trend.
Will they be sported by anyone visiting a cockpit anytime soon? Well, that remains to be seen.
The Navitimer 36 and Navitimer 32 are priced from $6790AUD and are available via the Breitling webstore.
Words by John Deckard
