Ever wondered what makes your watch tick? Literally, not metaphorically. All watches are powered by movements. Akin to the engine of a car, a movement is the mechanism that keeps your watch running. Watch movements can be categorised as mechanical or quartz, with the former further broken up into manually wound (i.e. hand-wound) or automatic.
The best watchmakers pay great attention to the development and execution of watch movements, which play a crucial role in the functionality (and often aesthetics) of the finished timepiece. To simplify complex matters, we’ve put together a primer on the different types of watch movements and the key things you need to know about them.
What is a watch movement?
A watch movement, often referred to as a ‘calibre’, is what powers the watch. Watch movements can be either mechanical or quartz.
Mechanical movements
Mechanical movements are the oldest type of movement in horology, with the basic mechanism of action derived from the movements first used in clocks and then miniaturised for pocket watches (and later wristwatches). A mechanical movement works by using a coiled metal spring (known as the mainspring) which transmits energy through a series of gears as it gradually uncoils. This energy powers the balance wheel (a weighted oscillating wheel) which is linked to the escapement, which releases the gear train and thereby allows the watch’s hands to incrementally move forward at a constant rate, displaying the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. The escapement is responsible for making the ‘ticking’ sound you hear in certain watches.
Manually wound mechanical movements
A mechanical movement can be either manual or automatic. Manual mechanical movements were invented first, with the mainspring needing to be periodically wound by hand. This was originally done using a key and then by a crown connected to the movement by a stem. These are known as manually wound or hand-wound movements.
Automatic mechanical movements
Automatic movements do not need to be manually wound and service their energy through the motion of the wearer during use. This is achieved through the use of a weighted rotor positioned above (or sometimes alongside, in the case of a micro rotor) the mainspring. The rotor spins with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist which enables it to wind the mainspring. If a watch with an automatic movement is left unworn to too long (i.e. longer than the movement’s power reserve), the mainspring will lose its energy and it will need to be wound manually using the crown and reset.
Quartz movements
A quartz movement dispenses with the mainspring altogether, relying on a small battery to keep the watch ticking. The battery in a quartz watch generates an electrical current which passes through an integrated circuit into an oscillating crystal crafted from quartz and cut into the shape of a tuning fork. The crystal vibrates at specific frequency (32,768 times per second, compared to the 3-4 times per second of most mechanical oscillators) to power the hands of the watch forward at a precise rate. Quartz watches are accurate to -5/+5 seconds per month — for comparison, mechanical movements are considered highly accurate if they can keep time within -2/+2 seconds of deviation per day. Watches with quartz movements will have a ‘ticking’ seconds hand that moves in noticeable increments across the dial, while mechanical movements feature a ‘sweeping’ seconds hand that moves smoothly across the dial.
Quartz watches were first invented in the mid-20th century and can be credited to the Japanese. The first quartz watch in the world was the Seiko Astron 35SQ, which was released in 1969.
Quartz movements were swiftly adopted for their ability to be easily (and inexpensively) mass-produced as well as their superior accuracy in comparison to mechanical watches. They are also more lightweight than mechanical movements and can be easily made to smaller proportions than automatic mechanical movements; which is why you’ll often find them in smaller (or ‘women’s’) watches.
Despite their superior accuracy, mechanical (both manual and more commonly, automatic) movements remain popular amongst horological enthusiasts, who value the craftsmanship and artistry that goes into the making of a timepiece over efficiency alone.
Is a mechanical or quartz movement better?
It’s important to consider a few factors when deciding between a mechanical or quartz movement. Mechanical movements are a core element of horological history, with luxury watchmakers and manufactures crafting their movements by hand — these often feature beautiful decorations and finishings. That said, mechanical movements can now be manufactured on a machine and mass-produced.
Watches with mechanical movements require more attention than their quartz counterparts, as they need to be kept wound to continue running. As most of the mechanical movements of today are automatic, this simply requires wearing it, which isn’t too much of a hard ask for most watch aficionados! The incorporation of an automatic movement also lends a watch a certain sense of heft (with the exception of Bulgari’s ultra-thin timepieces), which many people appreciate. Watches with mechanical movements do require servicing from time to time.
Quartz movements are more affordable than their mechanical counterparts and don’t require winding — they simply require the battery to be changed every eight to ten years. They also keep time more accurately than mechanical movements. While mechanical movements are more intrinsically linked to haute horology, even the lauded ‘holy trinity’ of watch manufactures—Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin—have quartz watches in their lineup.
What is a manufacture movement?
You might hear certain mechanical movements referred to as manufacture movements. In this context, a manufacture movement is one that has been entirely designed and produced in-house by the company that makes the watch. This extends to every component of the movement; from the mainplate and mainspring right down to the screws holding the movement together. However, the term is often used more loosely these days, as few watchmakers and watch brands have the capacity to produce every minute component in-house.
These watch brands are often referred to as ‘manufactures’ rather than ‘watch brands’; among them are Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne.
Want to learn more about watches? Our Ultimate Guide To Watches has everything you need to know; from the anatomy of a watch to the key watch styles and complications.
Words by AR Staff
