In a world dominated by fleeting trends and fast fashion, mechanical watches make for a beautiful antidote. An enduring status symbol, a fine watch lasts far beyond a lifetime, becoming a treasured heirloom to be passed down for generations. Or at the very least, retaining its value when resold. Whether they’re bought to mark a special occasion or simply fill up some wrist real estate, a fine watch is equal parts personal and practical.
Initially launched last year, the partnership between Watches & Wonders and online luxury retailers Mr Porter and Net-A-Porter celebrates watchmaking excellence, providing loyal customers with access to the latest novelties and timeless classics. Central to the campaign is in-person one-on-one shopping appointments in New York, London, Dubai, and Hong Kong for Mr Porter EIPs (that’s Extremely Important Persons) as well as immersive and educational content on the Mr Porter Journal for all global customers.
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With an abundance of classic and contemporary styles on the market, we tapped Maxim De Turckheim, senior watches & fine jewellery buyer at Mr Porter, for his recommendations on the established and emerging watch trends to look out for.
A watch for every wrist
While the past decade or so has been dominated by watches with a bigger is better mentality, the tides seem to be turning. “Small cases sizes have been really exploding this year with Panerai dropping their Luminor to a 42mm, Cartier bringing out the Ballon Bleu in a 40mm and Hermès launching their new H08 in a 39mm,” says De Turckheim. In addition to being suitable for a wider (or perhaps more aptly, narrower) selection of wrists, De Turckheim points out that “this size is so easy to wear with a smart or casual style, and makes it very versatile.”
What’s old is new
De Turckheim notes that the massive popularity of styles like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has translated to other retro sports watches, citing ‘70s and ‘80s icons “such as the hard to get Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Baume & Mercier Riviera, and the Piaget Polo Skeleton” as ones to watch.
Ease into it
“Fumé dials have been trending of late,” says De Turckheim, referring to gradient patterns that span across the watch face, lending a subtle sense of nostalgia. “I love the Hermès Arceau Squelette which had a black fume effect. But the ones really championing it are H. Moser & Cie., famous for their fumé dials, [who] came out with a really fun Blue Lagoon colour appropriately called Mega Cool. I love the depth and this effect on a dial.”
Technicolour dreams
Coloured dials have been enjoying great popularity of late, particularly in green, with noted watch manufacturers like Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Oris, Breitling, and Tudor incorporating the verdant hue into their new releases. However, for an everyday watch, De Turckheim recommends blue, for its versatility, noting that “it works with gold or steel and can go with any outfit.”
“Once you have your everyday watch ticked off you can be a bit more playful with the rest of your collection,” says De Turckheim. “At the moment I am really drawn to bold dial colours. Ressence did an amazing job with the Type 1 Slim Red; it was so vivid and slightly outrageous, but really worked with the simple pared-back design of the Type 1 Slim. The Cartier Tank Musts in green, blue, and red were also amazing! The dials look very flat which worked well with the coloured strap and stainless steel.”
Nailing the essentials
Rather than focusing on a singular timepiece, De Turckhiem advocates building a watch wardrobe, following the same concept as its clothing counterpart. As for where to start? “A very versatile sports watch” should be your first port of call, according to De Turckheim who notes that the ideal piece “can be worn with both a tux or a hoodie.” Go-to timepieces include the Jaeger-Le Coultre Reverso – “Jay Z has been rocking his 18k rose gold courtside at his favourite NBA games and it looks great” – and the Cartier Santos that comes with an easy release strap. “That way you can have both a sporty bracelet and alligator leather to take you from the boardroom to the football pitch.”
Words by Theo Rosen
