Engagement rings have been around for centuries, with Pope Nicholas I declaring that a gold ring represented a man’s intent to marry in a letter to Boris I of Bulgaria in 860, however, it wasn’t until 1947 that the De Beers “a diamond is forever” slogan and campaign cemented diamond rings as an engagement necessity. While engagement – and more specifically, diamond engagement – rings have certainly enjoyed an illustrious time in the spotlight, conceptions around them are slowly but surely shifting. Many couples are forgoing engagement and wedding rings altogether, eschewing them in favour of pieces that feel more relevant to their interests and lifestyles. Enter: engagement watches.
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The steady growth of the luxury watch market coupled with the fact that many heritage watches hold their value over time has led to engagement watches being a viable alternative – or addition – to engagement rings, with global fashion search platform Lyst noting a 42% increase in searches for “couple”, “engagement” and “wedding” watches in its 2021 Wedding Report. Much like gold and diamond jewellery, luxury watches are perceived as investment pieces that can be passed down to the next generation, providing them with a sense of exclusivity and longevity as well as sentimentality.
Serving a multitude of purposes, the engagement watch can go both ways, acting as a functional alternative for those who don’t prefer rings as well as a way of reciprocating the reception of an engagement ring. Although relationships are a two-way street, the engagement process can often seem like more of a monologue than a dialogue; traditionally, the partner who proposes doesn’t receive any form of engagement token. An engagement watch can help level the playing field, ensuring each partner receives a meaningful token to mark the engagement. Additionally, engagement watches can be a suitable way for women wishing to buck the traditional engagement route and propose to their partners or for LGBTQ+ couples.
As for the right watch to propose or mark an engagement with? Horological stalwarts like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Breitling never go out of style. However, much like an engagement ring, it’s essential to consider your partner’s personal style (as well as your own budget) when selecting an engagement watch; it’s better to opt for a timepiece they’ve already expressed an interest in or one that suits their overall lifestyle than merely catering to your own tastes. Oh, and should the object of your affection be particularly superstitious, it may be best to stick to mechanical movements, lest a dead battery be misconstrued as the relationship running its course…
To celebrate your relationship milestone in style, these are the best engagement watches for him and her.
1. Cartier Tank Française Watch
A universally-flattering timepiece, the Cartier Tank Française Watch works well on men and women alike. A style once favoured by Princess Diana and now passed down to Meghan Markle, the Cartier Tank Française Watch will be in the family for generations. Fitted with an automatic movement and featuring a two-toned chain link bracelet, this watch is equal parts classic and contemporary.
2. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Platinum
For the discerning gent, you can’t go past the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Platinum. The ice blue dial is exclusive to Rolex platinum watches, making it the ultimate subtle flex. Plus, platinum doesn’t scratch, tarnish, or fade, and develops an interesting patina over time, making it the ideal way to mark a milestone in your relationship. Diamonds might be forever, but platinum lasts even longer than that.
3. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Duetto
Offering the best of both worlds, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Duetto is ideal for those who like to switch it up from time to time. With a geometric art deco front face in brushed silver for day and a black dial with sunburst perimeter and diamond accents for night, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Duetto provides two timelessly elegant looks within one timepiece.
4. Rolex Submariner
For those looking for a practical alternative to a ring, the Rolex Submariner makes the perfect engagement watch. Stylish yet unfussy, it combines form with function, forming the blueprint for diver’s watchers thereafter. Regardless of whether your man is into diving, the Rolex Submariner is an attractive no-brainer option.
5. Longines Evidenza
Understated yet striking, the Longines Evidenza draws inspiration from the 1920s, utilising a unique tonneau shape. Fitted with an automatic in-house movement, it’s a stylish option that’s practical enough for daily wear.
6. Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40
For those who enjoy watches with a retro feel, Breitling is the way to go. The Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 is a singularly beautiful option, and one not many others will be sporting. With heritage touches like grooves on the side of the case, an open sapphire caseback, and vintage-inspired hands, the Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 is sure to please. If the green dial isn’t quite to your taste, the rest of the Premier range is similarly inspired by the 1940s and exudes retro appeal.
7. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711
While the Genevan luxury watch manufacturer claims “you never actually own a Patek Philippe,” it’s still one of the most beautiful watches to hold on to for the next generation. One of the greatest sports watches of all time, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is stunning yet practical. Though the Nautilus comes in several golden and diamond-encrusted iterations, the steel case and bracelet with green dial is the most coveted (and dare we say, classic?).
FAQ
Engagement watches have been popular in many Asian countries for years, with it being common to reciprocate the gift of an engagement ring with a fine mechanical watch. Now, the trend is spreading, with engagement watches being a way to return the favour of a ring or making for an alternative method to propose. Engagement watches are also a good option for same-sex or LGBTQ+ couples to mark their commitment to one another.
Good male engagement watches include the Rolex Submariner, Rolex Perpetual Day-Date, Breitling Premier Chronograph, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, Cartier Tank, Cartier Santos Dumont, and Patek Philippe Nautilus.
Some of the best engagement watches for women are the Cartier Tank, Longines Evidenza, Pasha de Cartier, and Rolex Lady-Datejust.
As an engagement watch is typically presented in place of a ring, a good rule of thumb is to match the cost you’d spend on an engagement ring.
Some of the best brands for engagement watches are Cartier, Rolex, Longines, Breitling, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. These can be purchased via the brand’s website or through a private seller on WatchUSeek, Chrono24, EBay, Mr Porter, or Hodinkee.
Historically, the rule of thumb has been to spend approximately 2-3 months salary on an engagement ring or watch. However, times have changed and the cost of an engagement ring should reflect the couple’s financial goals and overall ability to pay.
Words by T. Angel
