- The Rolex Perpetual Padellone expands its Perpetual 1908 dress watch collection with a complication that nods to the ref. 8171
- The Perpetual Padellone is a complete annual calendar with day, date, month, and moonphase indications
- The moonphase at 6 o’clock features a full moon and new moon made from meteorite
- The newcomer is available in Everose gold or platinum; the former on either a brown alligator leather strap or Settimo bracelet and the latter on a black alligator leather strap
- The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is priced from $98,700AUD for the Everose gold on leather strap
The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is an important release. Even without taking into account the watch itself, the Perpetual Padellone marks the Crown’s return to classic complications; a major move considering the maison’s contemporary catalogue primarily consists of Oyster case models with sporty complications. The newcomer slots into the Perpetual 1908 collection introduced in 2023, taking from it the same 39mm Everose gold or platinum case with a fluted bezel.
Now, it’s important to note that, despite the name, the Rolex Perpetual Padellone is a complete annual calendar, not a perpetual calendar — the ‘perpetual’ moniker draws from the collection it fits into, not its complication. A complete calendar means that in addition to the time, the Perpetual Padellone displays the day, date, month, and moonphase, while an annual calendar indicates that the complication accounts for the variations in 30- and 31-day months, and simply needs to be adjusted once a year on the 1st of March.
The dial layout is inspired by the reference 8171, offered from the late 1940s to early ‘50s, which was nicknamed ‘Padellone’ (Italian for ‘frying pan’). Laid out across a grained white (Everose gold) or ice blue (platinum) dial, the day and month appear within apertures at 12 o’clock, while a blued crescent-tipped hand points to the day-of-the-month on the periphery of the dial. At 6 o’clock, an enameled disc that makes a full rotation every lunar month—29.53 days—bears a full moon and new moon crafted from meteorite, with the latter treated with a dark blue PVD coating. Remaining relatively faithful to the reference 8171 in essence, it’s worth noting that the somewhat snarky moon face of the mid-1900s model has been swapped for a more placid—and somehow more anthropomorphic—duo of moon faces.
The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is powered by the calibre 7190, which builds upon the technical innovations of the calibre 7135 that debuted in the Land-Dweller last year. Expect to find the same Dynapulse escapement, silicon Syloxi hairspring, and high-frequency beat rate; what’s new is the patented Haplos system, which not only differentiates between 30- and 31-day months using just two additional components (an additional carrier finger and an annual lever), but also sees the day, date, and month jump forward instantaneously at midnight. Four seamless correctors situated around the case and operated with a correction stylus also allow each indication to be adjusted independently without affecting the others.
The Perpetual Padellone comes in three configurations. The Everose gold variant is available on a matching Settimo bracelet or on a matte brown alligator leather strap, while the platinum is paired with a matte black alligator leather strap.
So there you have it — a welcome return to the Crown’s classic origins amidst a slew of subtly revised sports watch configurations. Much like the meteorite moon face, consider us placidly pleased.
The Rolex Perpetulal Padellone is priced at $98,700AUD for the Everose gold on leather; $110,900AUD for the platinum on leather; and $121,800AUD for the Everose gold on Settimo bracelet.
Price: from $98,700AUD (Everose gold on leather strap)
Model: Perpetual Padellone
Case size: 39mm
Movement: 7190 (automatic)
Water resistance: 5ATM
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, moonphase
Power reserve: 66 hours
Words by John Deckard
