A functional necessity for few and a covetable commodity for many, the not-so-humble dive watch has enjoyed a long tenure as the most covetable tool watch style. Despite their utilitarian origins, they’re now just as likely to be spotted peeking out from under a shirt cuff as they are strapped around a wetsuit. And while many of the dive watches worn by the soft-handed investment bankers, hedge fund managers, and lawyers of today are unlikely to see more than a splash, there’s still a certain appeal that accompanies the knowledge that they could fare well a couple of hundred metres below sea level.
From the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms to the Rolex Submariner, almost every key horological heavyweight has a dive watch in its lineup. Popular with land dwellers and deep sea divers alike, the best dive watches for men continue to hold appeal thanks to their pared-back, legible dials; robust construction that can take a beating; and their undeniable cultural capital (James Bond’s Omega Seamaster and Steve McQueen’s Rolex Submariner spring to mind, as does Gianni Agnelli’s Omega Proplof; the latter notably worn on the outside of Agnelli’s shirt).
Regardless of whether you’re planning an expedition to the Mariana Trench à la James Cameron or simply want to experience the illicit thrill of showering with your watch on, these are the best dive watches to buy in 2024.
- The most iconic dive watch: Rolex Submariner
- The best dive watch under $1000: Baltic Aquascaphe
- The most elegant dive watch: Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph
- The best value dive watch: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
The best dive watches to buy in 2023
1. Rolex Submariner
Let’s start with the obvious (and arguably, the most iconic). The Rolex Submariner is likely the design that springs to mind when you hear the words ‘dive watch’. Since its inception in 1953, it’s become the blueprint for many contemporary dive watches. Although it has been iterated several times since its release 70 years ago, the aesthetics of modern editions remain true to the original, retaining key design cues such as its clean dial layout, lume-coated components, unidirectional bezel with knurled edges, Cerachrom bezel insert, and three-link oystersteel bracelet.
The original ‘no date’ edition is solely available in steel with a black dial and bezel, however the Submariner Date is also available in precious metals and with a variety of bezel colour configurations. The latest iteration of the Rolex Submariner boasts a 300m water resistance — a significant step up from the original’s 100m.
Price: from $13,550AUD
Model: Submariner
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 41mm
Related: 11 Steel Sports Watches That Are Worth Their Weight In Gold
2. Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Automatique
Often cited as the first modern dive watch, the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms was also released in 1953 and marked the first timepiece to offer a unidirectional bezel with a diving scale to track time underwater. Today, the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms exists in many forms, including the over-engineered Tech Gombessa; the positively gargantuan Fifty-Fathoms X Fathoms; and the Quantième Complet Phases de Lune that sees the traditionally utilitarian timepiece take on an unexpected moonphase complication.
The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Automatique is the most faithful to the original; available in a 45mm titanium or steel case, it boasts water resistance to 300m and has a power reserve of 120 hours. While most dive watches carry the same hallmarks, the curves on the Fifty-Fathoms distinguish it from its contemporaries, with its subtly arched bezel bestowing it with a refined, elegant tone that juxtaposes its functional origins.
Price: from $24,800AUD
Model: Fifty-Fathoms Automatique
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 45mm
3. Bremont Supermarine S302
British manufacture Bremont is known for producing rugged mechanical timepieces that go beyond the usual call of duty. While best known for its comprehensive pilot watch lineup, its dive watches are held to the same exacting standards. Letting form follow function, the Bremont Supermarine S302 is developed to the specifications required for professional divers and military personnel. The stainless steel case sits within the sweet spot at 40mm; coupled with a new integrated rubber strap, its slimmer profile and modest proportions suit most wrists. The Supermarine S302 utilises the manufacture’s signature Trip-Tick (three-piece) case construction and comes with a GMT function to track a second time zone. It comes in three colour variations — we’re particularly partial to the two-tone green and blue anodised aluminium bezel, however the limited-edition gray variant with creamy lume is also a standout.
Price: from $6200AUD
Model: Supermarine S302
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 40mm
Related: The Best British Watch Brands Are Doing Things Differently
4. Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph
German manufacture Glashütte Original interprets the dive watch through its singular lens, resulting in a timepiece that’s far from utilitarian. One of the most beautiful dive watches on the market, the Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph sees a striking blue handcrafted sunburst dial encircled by a colour-matched ceramic bezel. The manufacture’s first dive watch the feature a flyback chronograph function, the dial of the SeaQ Chronograph takes on a bicompax layout which houses a small seconds and 30-minute counter. The Arabic numerals, applied markers, and hour and minute hands all receive a healthy coating of white lume, allowing them to be read in the darkest of waters. Unlike most dive watches, the Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph features an exhibition caseback, allowing wearers to admire the gold oscillating weight and skeletonised rotor. Despite this, it still ensures depth resistance to 300m.
Price: from $21,950AUD
Model: SeaQ Chronograph
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 43.2mm
5. Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577
Deep sea diving at 6pm and black tie gala at 7pm? You’ll be wanting the Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577. Quite likely the only dive watch to boast a tourbillon complication, the Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 coalesces beauty with function. Available in rose gold with a sunburst slate grey dial or platinum with a sunburst blue dial, both variants feature an off-centre chapter ring with luminescent gold hands and hour markers, with a small seconds display on the tourbillon shaft. While most dive watches opt for stick indices or Arabic hour numbers for ease of reading, the Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 features elegant Roman numerals. Depth resistant to 100m, it’s more than fit for recreational dives — simply swap out the rubber strap for leather come evening.
Price: from $220,800AUD
Model: Marine Tourbillon 5577
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 42.4mm
6. Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Verde Smeraldo
Once a Panerai man, always a Panerai man. For a dive watch that remains instantly recognisable at the bottom of the ocean, a Panerai is the way to go. The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Verde Smeraldo offers an elegant green take on the classic dive watch. Housed in the Italian manufacture’s signature stainless steel cushion case (sized at a hefty 44mm) and bearing the iconic oversized crown guard, its provenance is evident to even the sharks. Its deep green dial is complemented by bright white circular hour indices, with the timepiece presented on a khaki green recycled fabric strap.
Price: from $17,600AUD
Model: Submersible QuarantaQuattro Verde Smeraldo
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 42.4mm
Related: A Guide To The Different Watch Case Shapes
7. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
With Omega holding the record for the deepest dive in history (10,350m), it’s no surprise the Swiss manufacture knows how to make a solid dive watch. While the Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000M is depth resistant to a bonkers 6000m as per its moniker, the Seamaster Diver 300M is an apt — and more wearable — fit for most (desk and sea) divers. In addition to its technical credentials, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M holds a heft amount of cultural capital, thanks to being sported on the wrists of both Pierce Brosnan’s and Daniel Craig’s James Bond (Sean Connery’s Bond preferred the Rolex Submariner). The standard steel iterations are available with blue, black, white, or green dials, however there are several riffs on the classic, including two-tone gold and steel versions and a titanium 007 release.
Price: from $9275AUD
Model: Seamaster Diver 300M
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 42mm
8. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Tudor might be Rolex’s baby brother, but its lineup of dive watches hold court in their own right. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is likely the best known timepiece in the Swiss manufacture’s lineup, and in recent years has garnered attention (in turn making it that much harder to acquire via retail) for its in-house movement, tasteful proportions, and value for money.
The latest iteration of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is inspired by the original release from 1958. Taking on a vintage feel in both its proportions and aesthetic, it’s housed in a 39mm stainless steel case, with its heritage-inspired dial featuring tan gilded markers, creamy lume, and Tudor’s signature snowflake hands. For something that stands out from the crowd, there’s also a bronze edition with a beautiful chocolate dial which will develop an alluring patina over time (if actually used for diving); while those who are strictly desk divers may find luck with the yellow gold and green version. Balancing modern construction with a heritage aesthetic, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is one of our favourite dive watches for men.
Price: from $5730AUD
Model: Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Size: 39mm
9. Breitling Superocean Automatic 42
Another contemporary take on an archival model, the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 looks to the heritage timepiece of the same name. The Superocean range comes in case sizes ranging from 36mm to 46mm, with the 42mm sitting in the sweet spot. Proving tool watches can be playful, the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 is available in a plethora of colour configurations and is identifiable by its clean lines, chunky luminescent indicies, squared-off hands, and rehaut in a conrrasting colour to the dial. It’s available in stainless steel and bronze, with the latter set to develop a patina over time.
Price: from $6690AUD
Model: Superocean Automatic 42
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 42mm
10. Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’
Positing that function needn’t come at the expense of fun, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ takes a decidedly unserious approach to the classic dive watch. Pairing a solid bronze case and bracelet with a pastel blue, pink, or green dial, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ has a modest 38mm case size and is designed to age with its wearer. It features chunky applied lume-filled indices and hands, with a date window at 6 o’clock. For those who prefer a more subdued dive watch, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five is also available in stainless steel with more neutral dial tones.
Price: $4300AUD
Model: Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 38mm
11. Baltic Aquascaphe
There’s a certain tranche of microbrands whose attempts at designing a dive watch all come out looking like Rolex Submariner knockoffs. Fortunately, the French microbrand Baltic manages to deftly evade this fate. Looking to dive watches of the 1950s, the Baltic Aquascaphe employs vintage design codes while carving out its own space in the market. Created by enthusiasts for enthusiasts, it nails vintage proportions with a 39mm case size and features a subtle sunburst dial with cream-toned hour markers and a domed sapphire crystal. It’s presented on a handsome beads-of-rice bracelet that lends the Aquascaphe a unique character and sets it apart from its contemporaries.
Price: €600 (approx. $1000AUD)
Model: Aquascaphe
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Size: 39mm
12. IWC Aquatimer Automatic
IWC’s dive watches are not to be overlooked. While the Swiss manufacture may be best known for its pilot’s watches, the Aquatimer line proves its just as adept at designing a functional yet handsome timepiece for the sea as it is for the sky. Initially released in 1967, the IWC Aquatimer in its current state is the result of a collaboration between IWC and Porsche Design in 1983, with Ferdinand Porsche (also responsible for the inimitable Porsche 911) designing the avant-garde timepiece.
Differentiating itself from most modern dive watches, it employs a unique internal/external bezel with a bevelled edge. Fitted with the manufacture’s SafeDive system, the bezel can only be adjusted by turning it anticlockwise, which means that if it’s accidently knocked, zero hour—the time at which the diver can return to the surface without the need for decompression stops—is never exceeded. The IWC Aquatimer Automatic has a 42mm stainless steel case and is available with a blue or black dial.
Price: from $9700AUD
Model: Aquatimer Automatic
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 42mm
13. Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver
The Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver balances robust sturdy construction with understated elegance. Housed in a 42.5mm stainless steel case, it features a textured black gradient dial that lends a sense of depth to the pared-back timepiece. The applied hour indices feature a luminescent coating to ensure optimum legibility under all lighting conditions, while a drop-shaped window at 6 o’clock reveals a date aperture. The timepiece is presented on a five-link stainless steel bracelet. Its familiar design language and luxury finishes at an affordable price point make it a solid value proposition.
Price: from $4500AUD
Model: Freelancer Diver
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 42.5mm
14. Mido Ocean Star Decompression World Timer
It’s rare to see a world-time function on a dive watch, but the Mido Ocean Star Decompression World Timer does it with fun and finesse. Diverging from the design language traditionally associated with dive watches, the Mido Ocean Star Decompression World Timer boasts neo-vintage style with a veritable melange of shades used for the concentric circles at the centre of the dial to convey the additional time zones and decompression info. While it makes for a somewhat confusing dial to read, it’s undeniably funky. Continuing to eschew convention, it features a glassbox-style sapphire crystal and has knurled edges around the bezel for grip underwater.
Price: $2100AUD
Model: Ocean Star Decompression World Timer
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Size: 40.5mm
15. Carl F. Bucherer Pavrati ScubaTec Verde
Green continues to have the watch industry in a chokehold and the Carl F. Bucherer Pavrati ScubaTec Verde makes it easy to see why. The deep green hue lends a sense of refinement to the otherwise rugged masculine aesthetic an unabashedly chunky form. Water resistant to 500m, it’s equipped with a helium escape valve, allowing it to withstand high-pressure environments. Housed in a hefty 44.6mm case, the deep green dial features a wave pattern while the blocky typeface on the bezel contributes to its utilitarian appearance. It’s presented on a suitably durable green fabric strap made from recycled plastic.
Price: $7200USD (approx. $11,120AUD)
Model: Pavrati ScubaTec Verde
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 50ATM
Case Size: 44.6mm
16. Doxa Sub 300T Professional
When it comes to dive watches, Doxa practically invented the colour orange. The shade is inextricably associated with the Swiss manufacture, with the theory being that orange was the easiest dial colour to see underwater. Its turtle-shaped case and floppy beads-of-rice bracelet contribute to its charm, making for a dive watch that stands apart from the crowd. Like the Carl F. Bucherer Pavrati ScubaTec, it’s equipped with a helium escape value — and rightfully so, as it’s depth resistant to 1200m. While the orange dial is inarguably the most iconic, it also comes in a variety of other shades, including dark blue, aquamarine, white, and yellow.
Price: $2990AUD
Model: Sub 300T Professional
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 120ATM
Case Size: 42.50 mm x 44.50 mm
17. Longines Legend Diver
Inspired by the dive watch of the same name from 1959, the Longines Legend Diver boasts vintage style. Unlike most contemporary dive watches, the Legend Diver eschews a unidirectional rotating bezel in favour of an internal bidirectional bezel controlled by a second crown. The lack of external bezel allows it to toe the line between a dress and dive watch, particularly evident when presented on the leather strap. The Longines Legend Diver comes in several configurations, with the green, cream, and brown dials boasting a charming nostalgic aesthetic.
Price: $3850AUD
Model: Legend Diver
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 30ATM
Case Size: 42mm
What is a dive watch?
A true dive watch is not merely a water resistant timepiece. To be considered a true dive watch, the timepiece must meet the guidelines set out by the International Organization for Standardisation (ISO), known as the ISO 6425. The ISO 6425 was first published in 1996 and most recently revised in 2018.
Only the watches that comply with these criteria are able to bear the words ‘diver’s watch’ or ‘dive watch’ on their dials. That said, watches that do comply with these standards won’t necessarily put this on their dials; whether it be because they don’t want to disrupt the aesthetic or don’t see fit in stating the obvious.
To be considered a dive watch, the timepiece must adhere to the following criteria:
- The watch must be water resistant to a depth of 100m (10ATM).
- The case must be crafted from a material able to withstand the corrosive effects of seawater — this is why you’ll typically see dive watches made from stainless steel or bronze.
- The watch must have a function that allows the wearer to measure elapsed time for a minimum of 60 minutes.
- If a rotating bezel is used for the elapsed time measurement, it must be unidirectional; this is essential as it prevents accidental knocks from showing a shorter elapsed time, with any mis-adjustment only decreasing the time remaining and thereby preventing divers from underestimating their immersion time.
- The bezel or diving scale on the rehaut must show markings at least every five minutes.
- Dive watches are required to be highly legible and must have a visibility from 25cm in total darkness. There must be the presence of an indication that the watch is running in total darkness; such as a luminescent coating on the seconds hand.
- The watch must be shock resistant: this is tested by two shocks (one on the 9 o’clock side and one to the sapphire crystal). To pass the shock resistance test, the watch must retain timekeeping to within +/- 60 seconds a day.
- The watch must pass the thermal shock test, meaning it’s able to withstand extreme temperature changes. This is tested by alternately submerging the watch in hot and cold water.
What are the characteristics of a dive watch?
All dive watches share the criteria listed above, however there are some additional key elements to know about:
- Unidirectional bezel: the unidirectional rotating bezel will typically have markers that display one minute increments, allowing them to monitor the time elapsed. Bezels often possess knurled or bevelled edges to make turning them easier underwater. The bezel will have a lume pip on the zero bezel market at 12 o’clock to allow readability in darkness, with some watches also applying luminescent coating to the minute markers.
- Gasket: a key element to ensure waterproofness, the gasket is a ring made from rubber or silicone and is used to form a seal between the inner movement and the stem of the crown so that when the crown is pulled out, the gasket protects the watch from moisture. Over time, the gaskets are prone to drying out and thus need to be changed during servicing.
- Screw-down crown: one of the most important features in ensuring water resistance, the screw-down crown prevents moisture from entering the watch.
- Luminescent coating: also known as lume, this luminescent material is used to coat the hands, hour markers, and bezel to ensure they’re visible in event the darkest conditions.
- Helium escape valve: a feature reserved for the deepest of dive watches, a helium escape valve is designed for use post deep-sea dive. Used on dry land, it allows wearers to release helium molecules built up in the watch. Think of it as the horological equivalent of a decompression chamber.
Alternatives to the best dive watches
Whether you’ve already amassed enough deep-sea worthy timepieces or are simply in the market for something a little different, why not check out one of our other watch guides?
- The best pilot’s watches for every budget
- The best field watches for every budget
- The best dress watches for every budget
- Guide to watches with moonphase complications
- Guide to tourbillons and the best tourbillon watches
FAQ
Watch manufactures are constantly vying for the title of the deepest dive watch. Currently, the Rolex Deepsea Challenge Sea-Dweller is winning the race to the bottom with 11,000m of water resistance. Other notable deep sea dive watches are the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000M (6000m), Sinn UX EZM 2B Hydro (5000m), and Omega Seamaster Heritage Models Ploprof 1200M (1200m).
Watches worn by real divers include the Tudor Pelagos FXD, Omega Seamaster, Doxa SUB 300T, and many Seiko divers.
The first modern dive watch was the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms which was released in 1953. However, the first dive watch of all time was the Omega Marine, which featured a slipcase that encased the actual watch case. It was first released for industrial use in 1932 before being released to the public in 1939.
Enjoyed this article? Check out our Ultimate Guide To Watches here; covering everything from the types of watch movements to watch styles and complications.
Words by T. Angel
