While the discourse around watch movements often spans paragraphs or even dissertations, a mere line or two is generally afforded to what surrounds them. Namely, the watch case. Inarguably a fundamental component of any timepiece, the watch case had the most influence over the overall look and aesthetic of the watch. In some cases, timepieces are instantly recognisable thanks to their distinct case shape — just think of the Cartier Tank, Hamilton Ventura, and pretty much anything by Panerai. So that you’re not left scratching your head when someone mentions a ‘tonneau’, here’s a primer on the main types of watch case shapes on the market.
Round
Let’s start with the most obvious — and the most common. Round, or circular, cases are likely what you picture when you hear the word ‘watch’. Much like the shape of a pocket watch or clock, a round watch case is the easiest and clearest way to display time, considering that watch hands move in concentric circles. Plus, the interlocking gears, springs, and balance wheels that comprise a watch movement are round, making sense for them to be housed in a circular shape.
Rectangular (tank)
Rectangular watches rose to prominence during the early 20th century, in line with the Art Deco period. The most distinguished rectangular watch is undoubtedly the Cartier Tank—the shape (and name) of which was inspired by the design of Renault tanks used in WWI—which was first released in 1917. The seminal design is so influential and ubiquitous that rectangular watches are often colloquially referred to as ‘tanks’. Jaeger-LeCoultre is another notable purveyor of rectangular wristwatches, as are Longines and Hamilton.
Related: Be There & Be Square; The Best Square & Rectangular Watches For Men
Square
The first wristwatch designed for a man was a square watch; the Cartier Santos in 1904. Like its fellow parallelogram—the rectangle—square watches were more popular during the early- to mid-20th century, with the likes of Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet among those creating refined dress watches in the shape. In 1969, the square case shape was bestowed with a sporty twist, courtesy of the Heuer Monaco (now in production as the TAG Heuer Monaco). Today, the square watch is a statement piece amongst a sea of round watches.
Tonneau
Tonneau, French for ‘barrel’, watches are essentially rectangular watches with rounded corners and the vertical sides bowed outwards. This gives them the appearance of a two-dimensional barrel. Franck Muller is perhaps best known for its tonneau watches, as is Richard Mille.
Cushion
Much like their namesake, cushion-shaped watches look positively pillowy. Cushion watches are essentially square watches with rounded corners and all edges bowed outwards. Unlike the other non-round watches on this list, cushion watches typically retain round dials. While cushion-shaped watches are most associated with the aggressively masculine stylings of Panerai, they can also take on a more elegant tone, as seen in the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American.
Oval
The first wristwatch ever made, the Breguet Reine de Naples (originally created for the Queen of Naples in 1810) was an oval-shaped watch and remains in the Swiss manufacture’s lineup to this day. While oval-shaped watches haven’t been popular for a while, they’re making a comeback, aligned with the release of the revamped Cartier Baignoire.
East-west watches
East-west watches refer to an elongated shape that is oriented horizontally rather than vertically. They can be ovals, like the Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye, or rectangles, like the aptly-named Tiffany Tiffany East West watch.
Octagonal
The lasting influence of watch designer Gerald Genta has resulted in octagonal watch cases enjoying their time in the sun. The rise (and rise) of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has led to the release of sporty octagonal watches like the Cartier Santos Octagon, Bulgari Octo, Girard-Perregaux Laureato, and even several G-Shocks.
Related: 11 Steel Sports Watches That Are Worth Their Weight In Gold
Avant-garde and eccentric
Avant-garde and eccentric cases don’t have set parameters, rather encompassing the watch case shapes that don’t fall into the other categories. Disposing of convention and tradition, these watches think outside the circle (or square or rectangle…). Among the bold and the beautiful is the Cartier Clash; said to be inspired by a Cartier Baignoire Allongée that was half-melted in a car crash, but evocative of the surrealist works of Salvador Dali. In the same vein, the Dali-inspired Exaequo Softwatch also falls into this category.
Avant-garde case shapes are also present in contemporary haute horology. The Vianney Halter Antiqua is one such example, as is pretty much anything by MB&F.
Want to learn more about watches? Our Ultimate Guide To Watches has everything you need to know; from the anatomy of a watch to the key watch styles and complications.
Words by AR Staff
