A flex in the hip-hop world and the ultimate status symbol among the affluent, Rolex has enjoyed appeal across various strata of society. Perceived as a key indicator of success yet maintaining a timeless, tasteful appearance, a Rolex is never a bad move. And quite possibly one of the most popular is the rugged yet versatile Rolex Submariner. Affectionately nicknamed the ‘Sub’, it’s long been the reference point for pretty much every dive watch. First introduced in 1953 as a true diving tool designed to brave serious conditions, the Submariner was swiftly adopted as a military issued dive watch. However, it wasn’t an immediate hit with the general public; its icon status came later, with a little help from a certain Mr Bond. Sean Connery sported a Rolex Submariner in the 1962 Bond film Dr. No, while the likes of Robert Redford and Steve McQueen added the timepiece to their wrists during the 1970s.
A crucial element of the Rolex Submariner’s staying power – both in the sea and on land – is that its appearance has remained consistent since it first arrived on the scene. Almost 70 years on and the Rolex Submariner has changed very little despite having undergone several iterations since its inception. Defined by its airtight oyster case and bracelet, black bezel and dial, and functionally large markers, a Sub of yesteryear would remain instantly identifiable today.
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Each change to the Submariner has been understated and in keeping with the timepiece’s DNA, with subtle updates including changes to the bracelet, the introduction of new materials, and a shiner bezel thanks to a transition from aluminium to ceramic. However, the most contentious yet arguably most innocuous changes came last year, heralding a new era for the Submariner. For the first time since the late 1950s, the case size was changed, getting upped from 40mm to 41mm. While the extra mm technically brought the Sub out of the widely regarded ‘sweet spot’ of around 38-40mm, Rolex slimmed out the overall design with tapered lugs, an elongated crown case, and narrower crown guards, making for a watch that sits better on the wrist than its predecessor.
Notoriously difficult to acquire, getting your hands on a new Rolex typically requires an inside connection or very deep pockets that stretch far beyond the timepiece’s actual selling price. However, if you do manage to get a Submariner on your wrist, you can be assured that – new or vintage – it’ll be an instant classic.
Words by John Deckard
