“It’s mil-spec,” the investment banker proclaims proudly, rolling up his shirt cuff to show off his Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms, the black sapphire crystal bezel glistening under the light, utterly devoid of scratches and unmarred by the passing of time. For many men—white collar workers comprising a vast majority—tactical or mil-spec gear holds a certain intrinsic allure, with field watches no exception. While most of the guys sporting a field watch today are unlikely to venture into armed combat anytime soon (heated boardroom discussion excepted), their form follows function ethos and utilitarian aesthetic continue to garner them wrist time.
Unlike other tool watches — such as dive, pilot, and chronograph watches — the definition of what constitutes a field watch isn’t as rigidly defined.
Essentially, a field watch is a rugged timepiece designed with both durability and legibility in mind. The best field watches for men are devoid of complications and tell the time in a no-nonsense manner. The quintessential field watch typically features a black dial with Arabic numerals, chunky luminescent-coated hour and minute hands, and is housed in a small (by today’s standards) case. Traditionally field watches have been crafted from stainless steel, however today other hardwearing materials such as titanium have been employed. The term is rooted in military history, with the early-20th century timepieces worn by soldiers and other military professionals serving as the forebears of the category. Some more traditional tool watches feature an additional 24 hour ring on the inner dial to denote military time.
Related: Taking to the skies? These are the best pilot’s watches
Today, a field watch makes for the ideal accompaniment for those partaking in more rugged outdoor pursuits like hiking or camping. That said, their sturdy construction also makes a field watch well suited to being a daily driver for those simply looking for an unfussy timepiece that can withstand a knock or two (or three).
The best field watches for men in 2024
When it comes to the best field watches, many notable models are produced by mid-range players like Hamilton and Seiko, as well as microbrands like Yema and Baltic. This means it’s easy to find an attractive, reasonably priced field watch that can take a beating and look good paired with a suit. Whether you’re after a field watch that stays faithful to the original Dirty Dozen stipulations or are desirous of a statement-making daily driver, these are the best field watches to buy in 2024.
1. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical
The archetypal field watch at an unbeatable price point. Harkening back to the watches the Swiss manufacture produced for the United States military in the mid-20th century, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical boasts old school cool. It’s not just the aesthetics that are vintage—though the black dial, Arabic numerals, 24 hour inner ring, and luminescent coating certainly help—with the timepiece powered by a hand wound movement. Just like the good ole days.
Price: $950AUD
Model: Khaki Field Mechanical
Movement: Manual winding
Water Resistance: 5ATM
Case Size: 38mm
2. Tudor Ranger
Continuing the lineage set in motion by the Oyster Prince watches used by the members of the British North Greenland Expedition, the Tudor Ranger unites classic and contemporary aesthetics. Its chunky luminescent hands signature combination of Arabic numerals and hour indices ensure legibility while the satin-brushed stainless steel case and bezel lend it an elevated touch. If donning it for a day in the urban jungle, swap out the rubber-leather strap for the steel bracelet.
Price: from $4140AUD
Model: Ranger
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 39mm
3. Archimede Outdoor Protect 39
The Archimede Outdoor Protect 39 deviates from the usual field watch design aesthetic to create a timepiece that’s equally as striking as its contemporaries. The lugless stainless steel case has undergone a special hardening process to ensure optimal durability and scratch resistance, while a screw-down crown and closed case back guarantee water resistance to 200 metres. The dial plays host to both Arabic numerals and chunky hour indices, with the latter—as well as the hour and minute hands—treated to a luminescent coating.
Price: €1040 (approx. $1685AUD)
Model: Outdoor Protect 39
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Size: 39mm
4. Cincinnati Watch Company Cincinnatus Centurion Field Watch
Despite its somewhat unwieldy name, the Cincinnati Watch Company Cincinnatus Centurion Field Watch stays true to the utilitarian philosophy of a field watch, albeit with its own spin. A striking grained dial houses luminescent Arabic numerals, with a minute track and 24 hour ring on the periphery. Sword hands contribute to its unique appearance, while a domed sapphire crystal lends a retro feel.
Price: $820AUD
Model: Cincinnatus Centurion Field Watch
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 40mm
5. Seiko SRPG27K
While a tad oversized for a field watch, the Seiko SRPG27K hits the mark when it comes to dial composition and layout. Featuring all the hallmarks of a true field watch as well as a day-date function, it has blocky hour indices, Arabic numerals, and a 24 hour inner ring, with both the hands and indices receiving a luminescent coating. The automatic movement is visible through the exhibition caseback, which guarantees water resistance to 100 metres. A solid contender for those with wrists on the larger side.
Price: $550AUD
Model: SRPG27K
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 39.4mm
6. Vaer S3 Tradition
American microbrand Vaer prides itself on the practical and functional nature of its timepieces. The brand’s entry-level field watch offering, the Vaer S3 Tradition, boasts vintage minimalist charm. Creamy Arabic numerals, arrow indices, and sword hands are coated in Old Radium lume in keeping with the retro feel. Its stainless steel case measures in at a period-correct 36mm and guarantees water resistance to 100m. While this variant comes with a quartz movement, Vaer also has other field watches at different—but still reasonable—price points, several of which are powered by automatic movements.
Price: $127USD (approx. $190AUD)
Model: S3 Tradition
Movement: Quartz
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 36mm
7. Farer Exmoor
A decidedly British take on the humble field watch, the Farer Exmoor oozes outdoorsy appeal with its textured green dial and brushed stainless steel case. A unique date aperture sees the Farer ‘A’ indicate the date on the outer ring while the inner ring houses luminescent coated Arabic numerals and indices. One for the Barbour-wearing outdoorsman.
Price: $995USD (approx. $1670AUD)
Model: Exmoor
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Size: 38.5mm
8. Vario 1945 D12
Inspired by the purpose-built Dirty Dozen watches commissioned by the British Ministry of Defense during World War II, the Vario 1945 D12 features a grained matte black dial (though it’s also available in other colours, railroad minute track, luminous hands and indices, and a small seconds subdial. The crown positioning at 4 o’clock ensures it doesn’t dig into your wrist while the 37mm proportions of the stainless steel case are true to its inspiration.
Price: $552AUD
Model: 1945 D12
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 37mm
9. Baltic Hermétique Tourer
The ultimate daily driver, the Baltic Hermétique Tourer is both rugged enough to be worn for outdoor use yet boasts classic aesthetics that recommend it to more refined pursuits. Housed within a 37mm brushed stainless steel case with a polished bezel, its matte dial plays host to a combination of Arabic numerals and stick indices which—along with the hands—are filled with lume for readability in the dark. The integrated crown at 3 o’clock promotes a more comfortable fit and allows it to be worn on either wrist. We’re partial to the cream or brown dials, which look sauve under a suit cuff when paired with the stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet.
Price: €550 (approx. $900AUD)
Model: Hermétique Tourer
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 15ATM
Case Size: 37mm
10. Victorinox Swiss Army Heritage
While Victorinox is perhaps best known for its iconic Swiss Army knives, it’s also been making watches for over three decades. The Victorinox Swiss Army Heritage is characterised by its robust build and utilitarian aesthetic, reminiscent of the field watches worn by the same infantry that popularised the brand’s knives. The understated brushed steel case is a touch larger than typical field watches at 40mm, however it does make for a very legible dial. Luminous Arabic numerals are joined by a 24 hour inner ring, while the Victorinox cross and shield logo complements the brand’s signature red seconds hand.
Price: $325USD (approx. $480AUD)
Model: Swiss Army Heritage
Movement: Quartz
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 40mm
11. Yema Urban Field
Uniting urban aesthetics with field watch durability, the Yema Urban Field is designed to traverse various occasions; from weekend hikes to diving into a spreadsheet. Available in 37.5mm or 40mm case sizes, it features a dial with an attractive sandblasted finish. A combination of luminescent coated Arabic numerals and dot indices feature on the dial, with a minute track on the periphery. Flip it over and you can watch the hand-wound movement at work; visible through the exhibition caseback, it’s decorated with blued screws and Côtes de Genève stripes. The timepiece is available on a leather strap or a beads-of-rice or bonklip bracelet; we personally like the latter for its unique, military-inspired aesthetic.
Price: from $$949USD (approx. $1400AUD)
Model: Urban Field
Movement: manual winding
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 37.5mm or 40mm
12. Timex Expedition Field Mini
For those whose wrists err on the smaller side, even the modest 36-39mm size of most field watches can wear as oversized. Fitted with all the hallmarks of a classic field watch, the aptly named Timex Expedition Field Mini comes in a 26mm case size. Despite its diminutive proportions, it boasts a rugged sensibility thanks to its brushed stainless steel case and sparse dial layout. Fitted with Timex’s Indiglo function, it allows you to tell the time in the dark with the push of the crown. The leather-trimmed fabric strap is also a nice retro touch.
Price: $98AUD
Model: Expedition Field Mini
Movement: Quartz
Water Resistance: 50m
Case Size: 26mm
13. Rolex Explorer
You can’t have a list of the best field watches without this bad boy. While it was geared towards mountaineers upon release in 1953, the Rolex Explorer has long carried the ‘field watch’ moniker in the Swiss manufacture’s lineup. Prioritising readability with oversized Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, its elegant layout and modest 36mm case size recommend it to all manner of occasions. A healthy coating of Chromalight lume on the hands and hour markers allows the dial to be read under all lighting conditions. Both the case and bracelet are crafted from Rolex’s patented Oystersteel, which is said to be more corrosion resistant than standard stainless steel.
Price: $10,740AUD
Model: Explorer
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Size: 36mm or 40mm
What is a field watch?
As mentioned earlier, the field watch category isn’t as stringently defined as that of other tool watches (such as dive watches or chronographs). As they’re designed for use in the great outdoors, field watches are rugged timepieces designed with both durability and legibility in mind. You won’t find any moonphases or world time functions here; field watches are typically devoid of complications, save for the occasional date function.
History of the field watch
While women were the first to wear wristwatches, the first men to sport them were soldiers. Throughout WWII, Switzerland had been exporting large quantities of wristwatches and pocket watches to both the Allied Forces and Germany (neutrality, baby!), however, these were civilian market orders. It wasn’t until World War II was nearing its end that the field watch as we know it today began to take shape.
The British Ministry of Defense (MoD) found these timepieces unsuitable to the needs of British soldiers and commissioned custom wristwatches which were required to be rugged and durable. The watches were also required to have a black dial, Arabic numerals, luminous hour and minute hands, a railroad minute track, a shatterproof crystal, and a stainless steel case. Twelve manufactures were tasked with fulfilling the brief: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. Today, these watches are known as the ‘Dirty Dozen’.
Following the Dirty Dozen period, watches designed for use by the infantry often featured a ‘hacking seconds’ function, wherein the seconds hand could be stopped and adjusted using the crown; this was useful for soldiers to synchronise watches to the second to coordinate military operations.
Characteristics of a field watch
While many watches can take a beating, field watches tend to share certain aesthetic and functional characteristics.
- Rugged case; typically crafted from stainless steel or featuring a PVD coating
- Non-glare crystal
- White Arabic numerals or hour markers
- Luminescent coating on numerals/hour markers and hands
- Black dial; however contemporary iterations also come in colourful options
- Hacking seconds function; a hallmark of traditional military field watches
Enjoyed this article? Why not check out our Ultimate Guide To Watches here; covering everything from the types of watch movements to watch styles and complications.
Words by T. Angel
