Brace yourselves besties, the creative directors are on the move again! October marks the start of Paris Fashion Week, but while that might dominate the fashion calendar, it’s not the only thing worth knowing about in the sartorial world. Off the runway, the collabs, link-ups, and new drops never stop, with the must-know fashion news for October 2025 not just including Jonathan Anderson’s womenswear debut for Dior and Dario Vitale’s for Versace, but quieter fashion news that’s liable to slipping under the radar — like Cushla Whiting’s new Art Deco jewellery collection or Song for the Mute’s latest collaboration with Adidas.
Just when we thought we were in the clear, both Fendi and Hermés are set to experience creative director switchups, with Maria Grazia Chiuri joining the former and Véronique Nichanian departing the latter. Elsewhere, Chanel’s new identity begins to take shape, while Cartier reinvents an icon.
So that you never find yourself staring blankly as your new acquaintances discuss Dario Vitale’s Versace debut or the latest team up between a fashion house and automotive marque, we’re back with On Thread, our monthly fashion news series with all the tidbits and industry news to know in a short and sweet format.
October 2025 fashion news
Welcome back to On Thread. Here, you’ll find all the fashion news worth knowing in October 2025. As always, we’ll continue to update On Thread daily in reverse chronological order, meaning you’ll always find the newest news on top.
The North Face and Cecilie Bahnsen take romance to the trails
The North Face and Cecilie Bahnsen have dropped their second collaborative capsule collection, which combines the Danish designer’s signature voluminous silhouettes and romantic outlook with the American outdoor company’s technically grounded approach. The resultant capsule dispenses with notions of what performance outdoor wear should look like; The North Face’s Nuptse’s puffer fabric is fashioned into skirts and adorned with floral stitching on shoes, while coats are cinched at the waist and reversible fleece jackets are adorned with a floral motif.
Explore The North Face x Cecile Bahnsen via Incu.
Callum Turner (and canines) star in Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign
Louis Vuitton’s men’s SS26 pre-collection acts as a love letter to classic British tailoring, reimagined for the modern man by creative director Pharrell Williams. The accompanying campaign sees contemporary British dandies, actor Callum Turner and footballer Jude Bellingham, lounge around in a series of idealised pastoral settings wearing tailored three-piece suits, shawl-collar knitwear, and a very Pharrell Williams take on the trending barn jacket. Completing the old money-esque country house fantasy is a formidable cast of canines, with Welsh Corgis, English Cocker Spaniels, and Border Collies—all aptly British breeds—decked out in Louis Vuitton’s new pet capsule, which includes monogrammed leashes and harnesses, travel trunks, and waste bag dispensers.
Paspaley’s cicada comes out of hibernation
Paspaley has unveiled the latest chapter of its Monsoon collection, with the release of the Blushing Cicada series. The Monsoon collection pays homage to the awakening of the land that accompanies the first rainfall, with native foliage blooming and insects springing to life — for Paspaley, the cry of the cicada is particularly significant, with its call signaling the end of the pearl harvest.
The Blushing Cicada series comprises eight designs and feature yellow gold latticework wings surrounding a Paspaley pearl body. Pieces are accented by mother-of-pearl and white diamonds, with the namesake pink ‘blush’ coming courtesy of tourmaline, sapphires, opal, rubellite, and rainbow moonstones.
Explore Blushing Cicada via Paspaley.
Takashi Murakami wraps Louis Vuitton’s handbags in tentacles with new Artycapucines collection
Louis Vuitton marks the third year of its role as associate partner of Art Basel Paris with the unveiling of the Artycapucines VII – Louis Vuitton × Takashi Murakami collection. Arriving two decades after the first connection between the luxury French fashion house and the Japanese artist, the collection sees Takashi Murakami extend his whimsical world across the leather of 11 of the maison’s Capucines handbags. Among the creations are the Capucines Mini Mushroom, which translates the vision of a psychedelic forest onto leather courtesy of a hundred 3D printed and hand-embroidered mushroom characters, as well as the Capucines Mini Tentacle, which sees an octopus wrap around the bag.
To celebrate the occasion, Takashi Murakami has curated a unique installation which will be presented on the Balcon d’Honneur at the Grand Palais. At the centre of the installation is an eight-metre octopus, which splays its tentacles towards the 11 Capucines handbags.
Grace Wales Bonner is the new creative director of menswear at Hermès
Grace Wales Bonner has been appointed creative director of menswear at Hermès, succeeding Véronique Nichanian who stepped down from the role earlier this month after a 37-year tenure at the luxury French fashion house. In her new role, Wales Bonner makes history, with the 35-year-old British designer the first Black woman to be named creative director at a major luxury house.
With both English and Jamaican heritage, London-born designer Grace Wales Bonner is known for her unique approach to tailoring, taking a cross-cultural approach to design and infusing pieces with a sense of sportiness and spirituality. She founded her namesake label, Wales Bonner, in 2014, with the brand known for its unique fusion of European and Savile Row techniques with the the afro-Atlantic experience.
“I am deeply honoured to be entrusted with the role of creative director of Hermès men’s ready-to-wear,” said Wales Bonner in a statement. “It is a dream realised to embark on this new chapter, following in a lineage of inspired craftspeople and designers. I wish to express my gratitude to Pierre-Alexis Dumas and Axel Dumas for the opportunity to bring my vision to this magical house.”
We’ll have to wait a little while to see that creative vision, with Wales Bonner’s debut collection for Hermès will set to arrive in January 2027.
Antler’s Discovery collection is perfectly primed for the great outdoors
Antler has made a move outdoors. The heritage British travel brand has expanded into outdoor travel with the launch of its Discovery collection. A follow up to the original 28L Discovery Backpack, the collection rounds out the outdoor offering with an adventure-ready 68L Wheeled Duffel and a 45L Discovery Backpack. An alternative to the brand’s traditional hard-shell luggage, the former combines the capaciousness of a duffle with the easy handling of a suitcase, with its oversized rubber wheels allowing it to navigate rugged terrain with ease. Meanwhile, the 45L Discovery Backpack is a hands-free cabin luggage style, with a suitcase-style opening for easy packing, compression straps, secure compartments, and a padded laptop sleeve. Rounding out the collection is the Discovery Crossbody Bag, which can be worn as a crossbody or bumbag.
Explore the Discovery collection via Antler.
Courtney Zheng’s Monolith is a sartorial interpretation of brutalist forms
Courtney Zheng has released its latest collection, Monolith. Marking a departure from the Georgian and Victorian references the Australian brand has incorporated in previous collections, Monolith looks to the starkness and tactility of brutalism for inspiration, with its design philosophy grounded in clarity, technique, and intention. The collection takes shape in sheer georgette, satin, suede, leather, wool, cotton twill, and denim, executed in a palette of of pewter, sand, and oxidised blue—reflecting the textures of concrete, metal, and weathered surfaces—punctuated with hits of primary red; a nod to Le Corbusier’s signature colour disruptions.
Explore Monolith via Courtney Zheng.
Sofia Richie Grainge quietly drops a quiet luxury clothing like…with a fast fashion retailer
Everyone’s favourite quiet luxury nepo baby Sofia Richie Grainge has launched a clothing line, SRG. The 27-year-old’s acronymic debut is exclusively available through fast fashion retailer Revolve and luxury e-commerce platform FWRD, with SRG debuting with a collection of tailored separates, knitwear, and outerwear, with the material palette ranging from viscose and polyester to natural materials like suede, leather, wool, silk, and cashmere. The collection is priced from approximately $420AUD to $3500AUD.
Rimowa is pretty in pink
Rimowa has introduced a new colour into the mix, with the German luxury luggage brand unveiling Ballerina Pink. The seasonal shade, a delicate light pink, is now available across the brand’s Essential collection and travel accessories, with highlights including The Essential Cabin and Check-In suitcases which take shape in polycarbonate and feature colour-matched handles and zippers. The shade also appears on the leather straps of the Personal Aluminium Cross-Body Bag, an iPhone case, and packing cubes.
Explore Ballerina Pink items via Rimowa.
Véronique Nichanian departs Hermés after 37 years as menswear creative director
While creative directors at the likes of Loewe, Dior, Fendi, and Gucci seem to be blowing in and out the door with the breeze, one role has remained consistent — that of Véronique Nichanian as creative director of menswear at Hermés, with her 37-year tenure making her the longest-serving creative director at any luxury fashion house.
Until now. After almost four decades at the helm of the maison’s menswear division, Véronique Nichanian is departing Hermès. Nichanian joined the French luxury fashion house in 1988 and worked to build Hermès menswear from the ground up, with each collection defined by its tactility and material richness, as well as a refined balance between sensuality and masculinity.
Nichanian’s successor will be announced in the coming weeks, with her final collection set to be presented in January 2026.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is back at Fendi
Maria Grazia Chiuri has been appointed chief creative officer at Fendi. The appointment represents a homecoming of sorts for Chiuri, with the designer having started her career at the Italian luxury fashion house in 1989, shortly after graduating from the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome. In her role within the leather goods and handbags division, Chiuri contributed to the development of the iconic Baguette handbag.
“I return to Fendi with honour and joy, having had the privilege of beginning my career under the guidance of the House’s founders, the five sisters,” Chiuri said in a statement. “Fendi has always been a forge of talents and a starting point for many creatives in the industry, thanks to the extraordinary ability of these five women to foster and nurture generations of vision and skill.”
Maria Grazia Chiuri succeeds Silvia Venturini Fendi as creative director, with the latter having stepped down from the role last month and transitioned to the role of honourary president.
“Maria Grazia Chiuri is one of the greatest creative talents in fashion today, and I am delighted that she has chosen to return to Fendi to continue expressing her creativity within the LVMH group, after sharing her bold vision of fashion,” said Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH Group, in a statement.
Chiuri’s debut FW26 collection is set to be presented in Milan in February 2026.
Australian artist Karen Black designs Mecca’s holiday collection
Mecca has unveiled its annual Holiday Artist collaboration, with the Australian beauty giant teaming up with Australian artist Karen Black. Now in its tenth year, the Holiday Artist Series sees Mecca partner with the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) to transform every element of its holiday packaging into collectible works of art. Black’s expressive brushstrokes adorn gift boxes and limited-edition festive sets, with her work also appearing in immersive in-store installations around the country.
Explore Holiday Artist Series via Mecca.
Ayo Edebiri joins Nicole Kidman as global brand ambassador for Chanel
Ayo Edebiri has joined Nicole Kidman as a global brand ambassador for Chanel, with the duo the first two to hold the role under new creative director Matthieu Blazy. As part of her role, she attended Blazy’s debut show in Paris earlier this month and made her first red carpet appearance wearing a white silk gown from the new collection (look 52, keep up) to the London premiere of her new Luca Guadagnino-directed film After the Hunt.
Yu Mei pops up in Sydney
New Zealand leather goods label Yu Mei has come down under, with its travelling ‘A Portmanteau in Residence’ retain concept setting up shop at Fenn in Paddington. Inspired by vintage travelling trunks, the concept reinterprets a portmanteau and offers an intimate way to experience the brand’s key styles, including the leather Braidy bag and new econyl Utility range.
The pop up will take place until the 6th of November, 2025 at 24 Glenmore Rd, Paddington, NSW, Australia.
Explore A Portmanteau in Residence via Yu Mei.
Nana Komatsu stars in Chanel’s new Coco Neige campaign
Chanel has launched its Coco Neige 2025/26 collection with a campaign fronted by Japanese actress Nana Komatsu and shot by photographer Sean Thomas. First launched in 2018, Coco Neige is dedicated to winter sports, combining technical performance with Chanel’s distinctive aesthetic cues. The new collection takes shape in shades of frosted pink, luminous ecru, pine green, deep navy, and iridescent black, playing with alpine chic staples while revisiting the maison’s heritage in the form of tweed details.
“While the collection reflects the CHANEL codes and holds functionality, I can see an unconventionally free side to it,” shared Komatsu. “I love how the collection is not bound by stereotypes and can be worn freely on the slopes and in the city.”
Vans launches the trail-ready MTE-Crosspath XC Gore-Tex
Bringing skater style to all-terrain footwear, Vans has launched the new MTE-Crosspath XC Gore-Tex. Designed with durability and all-weather protection in mind, the hiking shoe features an upgraded lightweight UltraCush midsole to ensure comfort and a custom Vibram XS Trek EVO outsole for responsive traction and stability across any terrain.
Explore the MTE-Crosspath XC Gore-Tex via Vans.
Cartier’s latest design proves love can be flexible
Over half a century after the debut of its iconic Love bracelet—duped to death, yet still covetable—Cartier has reimagined the style without losing its essence. The work of jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo, the Cartier Love bracelet is defined by its solid oval-shaped silhouette with several decorative and a single functional screw. Designed to be secured to the wrist by a dedicated screwdriver, the notion behind the Love bracelet was that it had to be secured by a loved one.
Now, Cartier has proven love has the ability to be flexible, with the new Love Unlimited bracelet. The screws are retained, but now they sit atop gadrooned links, which are able to bend and stretch with the motion of one’s wrist.
Where the Love bracelet was fixed, the Love Unlimited bracelet is fluid; shifting with time but remaining whole in its essence.
Explore Love Unlimited via Cartier.
Marc Jacobs and A.P.C. release a preppy capsule collection
Marc Jacobs (the man) and Jean Touitou, founder and creative director at A.P.C, have been friends since the 1990s. So, it’s only natural that Marc Jacobs (the brand) and A.P.C. would eventually link up for a capsule collection. The collaborative collection sees collegiate style reimagined with the two brands’ design identities at the centre, with co-branded pieces like baseball jackets, sweatshirts, and rugby polos presented alongside more subtle styles like a canvas chore coat and penny loafers. On the accessories side, A.P.C. gets the Marc Jacobs ‘let’s state the obvious’ treatment, with the latter’s distinctive leather tote bag emblazoned with the words ‘THE A.P.C. TOTE’. There’s also a denim tote which features the A.P.C. University in Paris logo on one half and the Marc Jacobs University in New York logo on the other.
Shop the A.P.C. x Marc Jacobs capsule collection via A.P.C.
Sandy Liang offers bows for less through Gap collab
Sandy Liang, the unofficial queen of bows, has teamed up with Gap. The American retailer’s classic styles (mostly of the denim variety) are imbued with Liang’s signature spin (bows, fluffy details, polka dots) to create a capsule collection that celebrates girlhood and speaks to female nostalgia.
“Growing up, Gap was the pinnacle of fashion. It’s incredible that I get to co-create with such an iconic brand that I treasured so much as a child yet is still so relevant today,” shared Liang in a press release. “Sandy’s Dream Closet illustrates how wearing Gap made me feel growing up as I imagined being an adult one day and who I could be. I wanted to take the pieces that meant something to me as a kid and reimagine them through my lens today—celebrating girlhood in all its forms while honoring the iconic styles that make Gap so timeless.”
The collection includes denim staples like a pleated mini skirt, vegan fur cropped jacket, and low rise carpenter jeans, as well as two logo-emblazoned hoodies, a vegan leather sherpa jacket, half-zip pullover, and a trench coat with a bow detail at the back.
Explore the Sandy’s Dream Closet collection via Gap.
TAG Heuer and New Balance collaborate on the new Connected Calibre E5 (and some cool kicks)
Now, we’re not about to pretend we’re fans of smart watches. Regular readers of our sister series In The Loupe will note that we like to keep things analog—and sometimes digital, but ideally in a jumping hour way—with our watch news series tending to eschew smart watch drops. However, the linkup between TAG Heuer and New Balance deserves a look in, at least for the sneaker side of things. The Swiss watch company has launched its new Connected Calibre E5, which for all intents and purposes has a pretty decent set of faces (no, we’re not calling them dials). Alongside that, TAG Heuer has launched a New Balance edition with a case (either 40mm or 45mm) crafted from black titanium and presented on a new flexible strap system which utilises textiles from New Balance’s sneakers.
However, it’s the accompanying sneaker collaboration that’s piqued our interest; the TAG Heuer x New Balance FuelCell SC Elite v5 running shoe comes in a deep shade of violet (colour matched to the watch strap) which features a mesh upper with green accents and offers a soft cushion and neutral support and comes in co-branded packaging.
Explore the FuelCell SC Elite v5 running shoe via New Balance and the Connected Calibre E5 via TAG Heuer.
Olivia Colman fronts new campaign for Burberry
Burberry celebrates the heritage and enduring appeal of its outerwear lineup with a new campaign titled ‘It’s Always Burberry Weather: Postcards From London’. The campaign sees British actress Olivia Colman star in a quartet of short films directed by John Madden. Each short film follows the adventures of first-time tourists (including Amelia Gray, Liu Wen, Lucky Blue Smith, Mona Tougaard, and Tyson Beckford) exploring London, who encounter a variety of locals—from a cricket enthusiast to a woman behind a chip shop counter—all portrayed by Colman, painting a colourful picture of life in the English capital.
Loewe x On introduce the Cloudsolo sneaker
Loewe and On continue their ongoing collaboration with the release of the Cloudsolo sneaker. Acting as an expression of Loewe and On’s shared dedication to movement, the Cloudsolo fuses key details from both brands’ signature design codes. From the ground up, the Cloudsolo is the duo’s first design to feature a single CloudTec Cloud element in the heel. It’s topped with a midsole constructed from Helion superfoam and a flexible Speedboard, intended to provide comfort and cushioning. The upper is made from On’s technical mesh and features Loewe’s branded pebble toggle, with the Cloudsolo silhouette available in vibrant shades of turquoise, orange, and lime green, alongside neutral hues.
Explore the Loewe x On Cloudsolo via Loewe.
At Valentino SS26, Alessandro Michele seeks out the light in a dark world
In 1941, Italian filmmaker and poet Pier Paolo Pasolini wrote a letter to a friend about fireflies and their ability to bring light to even the darkest of nights. Over three decades later in 1975, during Italy’s fascist regime, Pasolini published an article (Where have all the Fireflies Gone?) lamenting the “the disappearance of the fireflies,” and hope as a whole. Art historian Georges Didi-Huberman both agreed and disagreed with this sentiment, publishing a counter essay, responding to Pasolini’s initial letter with Survival of the Fireflies (2009), which posited that hope (and the fireflies!) was not lost; the light of the fireflies had simply been diminished and we had simply stopped seeking them out.
For Valentino SS26, creative director Alessandro Michele sought to create his own fireflies. Following the a reading of the show notes by Pamela Anderson, the 80-look collection (aptly titled ‘Fireflies) was displayed under flashing lights. The clothing itself acted as little pops of light, with a dopamine-inducing colour palette executed through a materially and texturally rich palette of silks, lace, chiffon, velvet, and tulle, accented with sequins and beading.
“We need to disarm the eyes and reawaken the gaze,” wrote Michele in his show notes. “It’s the only way to understand how the gloom of our present is actually woven with light swarms of fireflies: hints of worlds to come, traces of a beauty that resists standardization, sensitive epiphanies able to reconnect us with the human. Fashion, in this sense, can become a precious ally. Its task is to illuminate what loves to hide, revealing shy signs of future.”
Beare Park opens flagship store in Sydney’s Paddington
Beare Park has opened its new flagship store in Paddington, Sydney. Designed to evoke the feeling of an apartment, the new store acts as an intimate space to experience the Australian label’s collections in person.
The new Beare Park store is located at 25 William Street, Paddington, Sydney, Australia and is open from 10am to 6pm Monday to Saturday and from 11pm to 5 pm on Sundays. Learn more via Beare Park.
Ralph Lauren set to return as official outfitter of the Australian Open 2026
Proving it knows how to execute a sartorial slice, Ralph Lauren will return as the official outfitter of the Australian Open 2026 next year, marking its sixth consecutive year in the role. As part of the partnership, the American fashion house will outfit up to 4,000 staff across the tournament—from ball kids and on-court officials to ground crew—and also provide the official sunglasses for the Australian Open; the latter a role which kicked off last year.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Balenciaga SS26 debut pays homage and brings the house into the present
For his debut as creative director of Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli paid homage to those before him — namely, founder Cristóbal Balenciaga and Piccioli preceding creative directors Demna and Nicolas Ghesquière. The former’s commitment to sculptural silhouettes and voluminous forms, adroitly executed through the lightest touch is present throughout the collection, with Piccioli employing a new take on the house’s famous gazar fabric to make the traditionally rigid fabric softer and more comfortable while still holding its shape.
References to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s creations appear throughout—perhaps most evident in the reimagined sack dress—while nods to Demna’s streetwear era appear in oversized asymmetrical t-shirts worn over voluminous fringed skirts and Ghesquière’s love of dramatic shapes and cuts are showcased through ultra-cropped tees and a leather tunic with the back cut out.
Balenciaga is back.
Celine Eté sees the good times roll on
Michael Rider’s sophomore outing for Celine acts as a continuation of his debut show in July.
“The women and men kept walking and the seasons changed. We were thinking about what Celine is and what it isn’t,” wrote Rider in a pre-show letter. “We were thinking about good times, about lightness, and about summer heat. The tension between discretion and showing skin. About things that last, and things that are just a moment. And about how clothes, shoes, and all of it become a part of the memories we make wearing them.”
Matthieu Blazy makes Chanel his own in SS26 debut
Matthieu Blazy made his debut as creative director for Chanel last night at Paris Fashion Week. “For this first Chanel show, I wanted to do something quite universal, like a dream, something outside of time, and I was fascinated by the stars, a theme so dear to the House,” wrote Blazy on Instagram, explaining the set which sees models weave their way down a colourful solar system.
Chanel SS26 sees Blazy deconstruct house codes and reconstruct them to suit his own ‘cool girl’ aesthetic. Tweed blazers are cut in cropped and boxy silhouettes; low slung tweed trousers and midi skirts rest precariously on the hip bones of the insouciant models wearing them; Gabrielle Chanel’s famous boucle is rendered without lining, tapping into the sheer dress trend that refuses to die; and edges are left raw and encouraged to fray, while trompe-l’œil beaded suits and coats are caught mid-unravel, allowing the typically unseen to be seen.
“Chanel is about love. The birth of Modernity in fashion comes from a love story,” reflected Blazy of the maison. “This is what I find most beautiful. It has no time or space; this is an idea of freedom. The freedom worn and won by Gabrielle Chanel.” We wonder what ole Coco would think of Blazy’s debut…
Christian Louboutin’s Loubi Show trades the runway for the pitch
Dispensing with the status quo, Christian Louboutin has presented its latest collection in a wholly new way. The French maison teamed up with David LaChapelle and choreographer Blanca Li to stage a performance at the Dojo Arena in Paris. The presentation saw sport and fantasy collide, with the performance paying homage to the communal passion and vibrant energy of American town homecoming games. Naturally, the performance was executed in the maison’s covetable footwear; from cheerleaders in Cassia Annmac pumps to footballers in the ballet slipper-inspired Cassiasticina flats and the Ruben, the men’s counterpart.
Chanel announces Nicole Kidman as newest global brand ambassador
Ahead of Matthieu Blazy’s debut as creative director for Chanel, the luxury French fashion house has announced Nicole Kidman as its newest ambassador. The Australian actress’ relationship with the maison goes back to 2004, when she starred in the Chanel N°5 fragrance campaign directed by Baz Luhrmann.
“I am thrilled to be joining Chanel as it begins its new chapter with Matthieu at the helm,” said Kidman. “As someone who has such an appreciation for haute couture, I am so looking forward to witnessing Matthieu’s vision for the oldest haute couture house still in operation and having the opportunity to wear what I know will be gorgeous creations. Chanel has always been ahead of the curve, shining a smart and gracious light on women, and I am sure Matthieu will be no exception, just like Karl did in his time.”
Song for the Mute reimagines Adidas’ Taekwondo Mei and Adizero PR styles
Adidas and Song for the Mute have teamed up for the sixth time, with the American sportswear giant and the Australian streetwear brand turning their attention to the former’s Taekwondo Mei and Adizero PR footwear silhouettes. The Taekwondo Mei sees the style reinterpreted with an elasticated collar, laced closure, and asymmetric top-stitching, with the style available in khaki, sand, and black. Meanwhile, the track-ready Adizero PR receives new insoles, mismatched laces, and metal stud details, and is rendered in a throwback palette of black, oxidised white, and oxblood red. The collaborative collection also comprises seven pieces of apparel, as well as accessories.
Jonathan Anderson’s Dior SS26 debut sees silhouettes fight with themselves
Proving one can resurrect the past without being a slave to it, Jonathan Anderson’s Dior SS26 debut saw the creative director revisit the luxury French fashion house’s history, while writing a new story. Rather than completely revive archival looks, Dior SS26 draws elements from the past and reimagines them for a new world. Rendered in a soft colour palette of sky blue, dove grey, champagne, and cream, the collection sees the sculptural silhouette of the seminal 1947 New Look reinterpreted as a black-and-white layered mini dress finished with a bow—a Miss Dior signature—with the detail also exploding out of sleeveless dresses and anchoring bulbous plisse gowns. Design codes are constructed and deconstructed, resulting in hats that implode within themselves, covering models’ eyes and creating tension between ugly and pretty.
Acne Studios SS26 womenswear collection challenges sartorial gender archetypes
Acne Studios presented its Spring Summer 2026 womenswear collection in the Collège des Bernardins, erecting a moody cigar salon amidst the vaulted hall of the former Parisian university. The collection questions the interplay between menswear and womenswear, challenging archetypes and melding sartorial codes to create a fluid collection for a new type of female protagonist. Fabrics are fused together to create layered lace corsetry and slip dresses, transparent slip skirts and contrasted with sweater-shirt hybrids, and distressed denim flits in and out, underscored by the hints of western style the Swedish fashion house has been exploring of late — think cowboy boots, aviators, and plaid.
“I’ve always felt that creativity is perhaps about being able to see the world in a way you didn’t realise could be seen,” says Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson. “There are people who can do that to you, they make the world feel different, they stand out and tell you a new story.”
Cushla Whiting’s newest pendants draw inspiration from Italian Futurism
For its latest collection, Cushla Whiting takes its cues from the Italian Futurist movement that defined the early 20th century, coalescing this with the Australian jewellery brand’s Art Deco sensibilities. Defined by its embrace of movement, speed, technology, and industrialism, the Italian Futurist movement was notable for its modern outlook, with its motifs translated into spinning pendants; one crafted in 9K and 18K gold with polished malachite, and another featuring channel-set square black sapphires. The spinning elements speak to the kinetic motion emblematic of the time, while adding a tactile, sensory dimension to the pieces.
Louis Vuitton SS26 wants you to dress up to stay in
For Louis Vuitton SS26, womenswear creative director Nicolas Ghesquière put forward an inveiglement to get dressed up for the art of life. A proposition that one doesn’t need an occasion to dress up—life itself is an occasion—Louis Vuitton SS26 took place in the summer apartments of Anne d’Autriche, with the 17th-century Queen of France’s living quarters setting a positively domestic—albiet luxurious—tone.
In the show notes, Ghesquière described the collection as “a celebration of intimacy and the boundless freedom of the private sphere.” Pieces formerly reserved for the confines of one’s own home—sweatpants, cotton rompers, nightdresses—made their way onto the runway, however it’s the study of light and heavy that won our affection. Lightweight plisse fabric delicately sculpts the body, while heavyweight silks were shaped into bulbous caftans; sheer dresses revealed exposed bonding, while turban-like headwear reminiscent of towels after a hairwash wrapped around models’ heads.
Dario Vitale proves he knows how to make Versace Versace again
Succeeding Donatella Versace as creative director, Dario Vitale is the first person outside of the Versace family to helm the brand. For his debut collection for Versace SS26, Vitale brought back the sexually charged glamour of the ‘80s. There’s always been an undercurrent of sexiness running through Versace’s collections, but Vitale’s Versace marks a departure from the overt bombshell glamour of Donatella Versace’s tenure, instead opting for something a little grittier and more suggestive of hedonistic pleasure. Set within the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, a former residence that now serves as a gallery, the show took place amongst an intentionally disarrayed set laden with antiques and curios, with an unmade bed in the centre surrounded by empty glasses, discarded pills, and an ashtray.
Resurrecting the style of tasteful trashiness that defined founder Gianni Versace’s eponymous brand, Versace SS26 saw bold shades of purple, emerald green, royal blue, strawberry pink, and mustard yellow take centre stage, accompanied by the baroque printed shirts—and skirts—that formerly formed a key component of Versace’s design identity. Trousers and jeans were cut slim and worn high on the waist, while leather pieces spoke to the heft of the ‘80s rather than the ineffably light pieces lately posed by the likes of Bottega Veneta and Tod’s. Amidst the chainmail-inspired embroidery, short shorts, and sexy layering was a hint of sobriety, found in the positively demure leather footwear and traditional ladylike handbags, as well as styling cues like a sweater tied at the waist.
Demna pays homage to old Gucci for Gucci SS26
For his debut collection at Gucci, Demna resurrected a taste of old Gucci. Titled ‘La Famigla’, the collection dropped courtesy of a lookbook shot by Los Angeles-based fine-art photographer Catherine Opie. Something of a character study, the collection coalesced old and new; the first image was simply a Gucci trunk, the piece on which Guccio Gucci founded his eponymous brand. Elsewhere, there are hints of Gucci’s sexy sleezy era, with the ‘90s interlocking GG logo making a comeback on belts—just barely—holding up low-slung denim, while elsewhere voluminous fur-trimmed outerwear and shrunken biker jackets appear.
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Words by Arabella Johnson and Esmé Duggan
