Despite some contemporary sartorialists extolling the virtues of the sneaker while simultaneously denouncing men’s dress shoes as ‘over’, here at Albert Review we believe there’s a time and place for everything. While luxury trainers continue to reign over the street style set and can even hold their own when paired with a suit, men’s dress shoes will always have their place.
Though we may have taken a step back from the tightlaced nature of corporate dressing, there are still occasions that exude a certain gravitas, requiring you to don a pair of smart dress shoes; weddings and funerals, for example. Plus, much like chunky sneakers can make a formal outfit appear relaxed, classic dress shoes possess the ability to elevate your more casual gear into smart casual territory.
Unlike oft-hyped sneakers, investing in quality dress shoes will last you several years (or even decades if you really level up) rather than months, and set you up for any occasion. But, shopping for the best men’s dress shoes is not always a straightforward task. An excursion to a good shoemaker without knowledge of the rudimentary principles of what makes a good dress shoe will have you dissociating somewhere between monk straps and loafers while a jovial—or sometimes, intentionally haughty—salesman runs through a laundry list of terms like ‘concealed lacing system’ and ‘Goodyear welt’. It’s enough to make any sartorially well intentioned man run for the hills (or more rather, the department store).
Click here to skip to the best dress shoe brands for men.
With that in mind, we’ve put together this guide to men’s dress shoes. Designed to demystify the wide world of dress shoes for men, it covers everything from need-to-know styles and leather types to construction methods. Plus, we’ve also compiled the heritage and contemporary brands making the best dress shoes for men at every price point.
Types of dress shoe styles for men
Oxfords
The pièce de résistance to any dress shoe wardrobe, if you only buy one pair of dress shoes in your life, let them be oxfords. The most formal men’s dress shoe style, oxford shoes are pretty much the only shoe style that is traditionally acceptable with a tuxedo and are essential wearing for black tie—and the dreaded white tie—occasions. Oxfords are characterised by their closed lacing system; wherein the vamp is stitched over the quarters, making for a cleaner, and thereby more formal appearance. Their sleek appearance makes for the pinnacle in formal wear, however, if you want to tone it down a little, opt for a cap toe variety.
GEORGE CLEVERLY
Charles Cap-Toe Leather Oxford Shoes
JOHN LOBB
City II Burnished-Leather Oxford Shoes
DUNHILL
Kensington Leather Oxford Shoes
BERLUTI
Blake Whole-Cut Venezia Leather Oxford Shoes
Derbies
A step down on the formality spectrum from oxfords, a good pair of derbies are a versatile addition to your dress shoe arsenal. Derby shoes can be differentiated from their more formal cousin—the oxford—by their open lacing system, with the leather on the quarters sewn onto the vamp and thus visible outside the shoe. Their slightly heftier silhouette makes derbies suitable for wear with jeans and odd trousers as well as more formal tailoring (just not a tux!). While it’s hard to go wrong with black derby shoes, we prefer them in colours like brown (every shade from camel to cognac and chocolate), oxblood, and burgundy. This allows them to be teamed with both cocktail and casual attire. Derby shoes are sometimes referred to as bluchers (particularly in the United States), however there are subtle differences between the two styles.
While oxford shoes are always crafted with a leather sole, some contemporary derby shoes are made with rubber soles which allows them to be worn during inclement weather and navigate urban settings without the risk of taking a tumble on the pavement.
OFFICINE CREATIVE
Character Leather Derby Shoes
JOHN LOBB
Wrey Leather Derby Shoes
CHURCH’S
Oslo Polished-Leather Derby Shoes
COMMON PROJECTS
Polished-Leather Derby Shoes
Brogues
Unlike the other dress shoe styles mentioned in this article, the term ‘brogues’ refers to the detailed perforations adorning a shoe, rather than the silhouette itself. Born out of a functional necessity to let water drain out of the shoes when traversing through wet environments, the perforations on brogues are now purely decorative. While brogueing can technically be done on any shoe style, brogues are typically found on closed shoe styles like oxfords, derbies, monk straps, and even Chelsea boots. Wingtip shoes are brogues that have a curved decorative detail on the toe cap of the shoe (we’ll get to this later). Applying the concept that the cleanness of the silhouette directly corresponds with the formality of a shoe (i.e. oxfords as the pinnacle of formality), the more broguing a shoe has, the less dressy it is.
GRENSON
Dylan Burnished-Leather Wingtip Brogues
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
A Mon Homme Leather Brogues
BERLUTI
Dune Leather Wingtip Brogues
Loafers
Gone are the days when loafers were considered too casual to pair with tailoring. Distinguished by their lack of laces or buckles, slip-on application, and moc-toe construction, loafers can be either casual or dressy. To sit neatly in the formal category, opt for leather loafers in darker colours (think black and chocolate brown) and opt for plain, penny, or horsebit loafer variations. Oh, and never go sockless.
For a more casual vibe, opt for suede loafers in a shade like oxblood or forest green and experiment with details like tassels and kilties. Alternatively, contemporary brands like Duke + Dexter and Filling Pieces are using the unencumbered vamp of loafers as a canvas for self-expression, splaying artwork across the surface. In a casual context, socks are optional.
GUCCI
Horsebit Leather Loafers
BRIONI
Polished-Leather Penny Loafers
COMMON PROJECTS
Leather Penny Loafers
G.H. BASS & CO.
Weejuns Heritage Larson Leather Penny Loafers
Monk straps
While religious devotees may not be a typical source of sartorial inspiration (although the Heavenly Bodies Met Gala may have changed that), monk strap shoes are a tasteful addition to any men’s dress shoe collection. More statement-making than oxfords or derbies but less louche than loafers, monk strap shoes are a lace-free style closed by a leather strap and metal buckle sitting on the upper section of the shoe. Monk shoes come in one, two, and three-strapped varieties, with the double monk being an Albert Review favourite.
JOHN LOBB
William 75 Polished-Leather Monk-Strap Shoes
SANTONI
Leather Monk-Strap Shoes
OFFICINE CREATIVE
Ivy Leather Monk-Strap Shoes
TRICKER’S
Leavenworth Burnished-Leather Monk-Strap Shoes
Dress boots
Put the chunky hiking, chukka, and combat styles away, they’re not welcome here. While the aforementioned styles provide an interesting utilitarian contrast to suiting, a good pair of dress boots slips seamlessly into your formalwear roster, making for a slightly more relaxed alternative to oxfords or derbies. The best dress boots are those that have streamlined silhouettes, are devoid of extraneous detailing, and place an increased emphasis on quality construction and craftsmanship. Chelsea boots in dark leathers pair well with suits and work for most occasions, as do Jodhpur boots in smooth leathers (stay away from suede, which reads more casual). That said, if you’re planning to wear your dress boots with a tux, look for laceless styles without an elasticated gusset.
TOM FORD
Rochester Leather Boots
GEORGE CLEVERLY
Robert Leather Chelsea Boots
J.M. WESTON
Leather Derby Boots
CELINE HOMME
Leather Chelsea Boots
Dress shoe details to know
Plain toe
The definition is in the name; dress shoes with plain toes mean the shoe has no toe cap or brogue detail. Whether it’s a dress boot or an oxford or derby shoe, leather dress shoes with plain toes are often among the most formal styles in their respective categories (with plain toe oxfords being the most formal of them all).
Cap toe
Dress shoes with cap toes feature an additional piece of leather on the toe box. Cap toe dress shoes are distinguished by the stitched horizontal seam that visually separates the toe box from the vamp.
Wingtip
Here, an additional layer of leather over the toe cap extends backwards with low ‘wings’ that reach across the quarters of the dress shoe. When viewed from above, the toe of a wingtip looks like an ‘M’ or a ‘W’ (depending on whether you’re wearing them or not). Wingtips (and more detail in general) tend to make a shoe look more casual than cap toe or plain toe shoes. While there are no hard and fast rules regarding leather choices, wingtips often look better in brown or burgundy tones rather than in black.
Brogues
No, we’re not repeating ourselves here. Brogues are both a dress shoe style and a dress shoe detail. As previously mentioned, broguing refers to the decorative perforations on a shoe. Full brogues are those with wingtips, while semi- or half-brogues eschew wingtip details in favour of a straight-edged toe cap with decorative perforations and serration. Quarter brogues have a toe cap with decorative perforations along the horizontal seam of the toe cap, leaving the toe cap itself unadorned. Quarter brogues are more formal than semi- and full brogues. Longwing brogues aren’t often seen, but they can be thought of as the rather pompous cousin of the wingtip — they feature a pointed toe cap with wingtip detail at the front, but rather than tapering off at the quarters, the brogued wings run the full length of the shoe and meet at the centre seam of the heel.
Tassels
Lovers of Ivy League aesthetics will be well aware of the preppy credentials the addition of a pair of tassels can impart. Tassels are solely present on loafers (they’d frankly be an abomination on a pair of derbies or Chelsea boots) and can be found on their own or paired with kilties.
Kilties
A kiltie is a fringed leather flap that’s affixed to the tongue of a shoe by a horizontal leather strap and extends over the upper part of the vamp. On loafers and monk strap shoes, kilties act as a fun design element. However, on laced shoes (such as derbies), kilties work to protect the tongue of a shoe from excess friction caused by laces.
Whole cut
Whole cut shoes refer to both a construction style and a design detail. Whole cut shoes are those that have uppers crafted from a simple piece of unblemished leather and can be made with or without a backseam — the latter is known as a seamless whole cut. Whole cut shoes can come in a variety of styles, with whole cut oxfords being the most formal dress shoes of them all.
Dress shoe construction methods
If you’ve conducted even the most perfunctory research on the best dress shoes for men, it’s quite likely you’ve come across the term Goodyear welted. Here, we break down exactly what that is and how it differs from construction methods like Blake stitch, Norwegian welt, and the dreaded cemented construction.
Goodyear welt
Goodyear welted construction refers to a technique wherein a strip—or ‘welt’—of leather is used to attach the upper, insole, and outsole of a shoe. The leather welt, measuring approximately one centimetre wide, encircles the perimeter of the outsole and is used to connect it to the upper and insole of the shoe.
Between the insole and outsole, there is often a cork (or other porous material) footbed which provides additional comfort and allows the shoe to breathe. Goodyear welt construction was invented by Charles Goodyear Jr and—although the man himself is American—is considered the pinnacle of proper English shoemaking and often seen as the most revered construction method for high-quality, long-lasting shoes.
Goodyear welted shoes offer superior comfort, stability, and flexibility compared to low-cost production methods like cemented construction. In addition to its feel on the foot, one of the key drawcards to using Goodyear welt construction is the ability of the shoe to be resoled for decades to come, significantly extending the lifespan of the shoe.
Blake stitch
Goodyear welt isn’t the only high-quality construction method for men’s dress shoes. Invented by Lyman Reed Blake, the Blake stitch method sees the upper of the shoe stitched directly onto the sole. The absence of welted construction means Blake stitched shoes are lighter and more flexible than Goodyear welted shoes, however the construction method means they may wear out quicker and can be harder for cobblers to resole. Compared to Goodyear welted shoes, shoes crafted using the Blake stitch method tend to require a shorter break-in period. Blake stitch construction is commonly used within the Italian footwear industry, including by heritage leather house Tod’s.
Norwegian welt
The Norwegian welt construction method was developed in Scandinavia (of course!), with its main attraction being its superior waterproofness and durability. The method involves double-stitched construction and sees the upper turned outwards rather than folded under the insole, which allows the welt to sit flush with the sole and upper. Norwegian welt construction is tough and hardwearing yet far stiffer than Goodyear welt and Blake stitch construction. It’s typically reserved for rugged hiking boots, however is occasionally used on other lace-up boots and derby shoes.
Cemented construction
Cemented construction is the cheapest and most basic type of shoe construction. It sees the supper of the shoe glued (or ‘cemented’) to the sole using a strong adhesive. Unlike the other construction methods we’ve discussed here, cemented construction doesn’t have a welt or stitching, with the result being that they cannot be resoled and are virtually disposable once the sole wears off.
This construction method is selected for its low cost of production — we’d recommend avoiding it when shopping for high-quality men’s dress shoes. While it’s common for fast fashion footwear retailers to employ cemented construction, some luxury fashion houses also use this method, making it important to check before you make a purchase. For this reason, we’d recommend opting for dress shoes from dedicated footwear brands that use traditional shoemaking techniques.
Types of soles for dress shoes
While they may look similar on the surface, dress shoes often have different soles. The most common types of soles for dress shoes are leather, double leather, rubber, Dainite, and crepe.
Leather soles
Leather is the most classic material option for dress shoe soles. A single leather sole (i.e. a sole made from a single layer of leather) is comfortable and has a sleek, tapered, streamlined appearance that lends itself well to more formal occasions. Due to their formal nature, oxford shoes tend to be made with leather soles. The drawback to single leather soles is that they’re slippery when wet (and sometimes even when try) and don’t provide much support in the way of grip and traction. For that reason, they’re best reserved for indoor events or times when the sun is shining.
Double leather soles
Adding another layer of leather into the mix, double leather soles offer additional protection, warmth, and durability to a shoe. That said, they can be less comfortable than single leather soles and take on a more casual tone — think laidback Chukka or hiking boots.
Rubber soles
Rubber soles aren’t a traditional dress shoe sole style, but have been gaining traction thanks to their durability and grip. Contemporary leather soles offer a more streamlined appearance than their chunky predecessors, meaning that rubber soles on semi-formal dress shoes like derbies are no longer verboten. That said, it’s worth noting that rubber soles cannot accommodate a beveled waist and fiddleback, traditionally precluding them from being used on some formal dress shoes.
Crepe soles
A form of thick, textured rubber, crepe soles are lightweight and casual. Often seen on desert and chukka boots, crepe soles are not suitable for dress shoes and should be avoided in formal contexts.
Dainite soles
Invented by heritage British sole and heel manufacturer Dainite, the soles of the same name are composed of rubber and possess added protection and durability features. Balancing ruggedness with elegance, Dainite’s most popular sole type is its studded offering, which offers superior grip while maintaining an elegant side profile.
Types of leathers for dress shoes
Full grain leather
The most durable leather of all, full grain leather denotes the top layer of the hide (just below the hair of the animal). Full grain leather is considered the highest quality grade of leather; as it has not been buffed or sanded to remove imperfections, it will come with natural grain and texture. Over time, full grain leather will develop a patina that adds to its idiosyncratic character.
Top grain leather
Sitting just under full grain leather in terms of durability, top grain leather sees the split layer of the leather removed and the surface lightly sanded and buffed to remove imperfections.
Smooth leather
Smooth leather refers to any leather free from pebbling, grain, or texture. Smooth leather is often employed on formal dress shoes such as oxfords and monk strap shoes.
Pebbled leather
Pebbled leather, or pebble-grain leather, has a bumpy, textured surface that is achieved by embossing smooth leather using heavy rollers or a pebble-grain plate. Pebbled leather is often produced using second- or third-grade hide. The textured appearance of pebbled leather means it ages well, hiding creases and imperfections. It reads as less formal than smooth or patent leathers, and works well on derby shoes and sturdy boots.
Patent leather
Patent leather is smooth leather that has been permanently treated and coated to give it a lustrous high-shine appearance. The permanent finish was traditionally achieved using a linseed oil lacquer, but today is often a synthetic coating. Patent leather oxfords are inarguably the most formal dress shoe style for men.
Suede
Come autumn and winter, suede is an elegant choice for men’s dress shoes. It’s distinguished by its soft, velvety texture and is achieved by sanding down the underside of the hide. As suede is the flesh side of the hide, it’s softer and more pliable than other leather types. Waterproofness is a matter of contention with suede, with those in climes prone to inclement weather often avoiding the material. However, with the right treatment, suede can be made water resistant.
The best men’s dress shoe brands
A well-chosen pair—or pairs!—of men’s dress dress shoes will pay dividends for years to come. When properly cared for, the best men’s dress shoes have the propensity to age like a fine wine (or perhaps a fine man who uses a good retinol), with their patina and creases only serving to add character to your stompers. From Northampton stalwarts and European maestros to nascent labels shaking up the heritage shoemaking industry, these are our favourite men’s dress shoe brands on the market.
Many of the best dress shoe brands for men have bespoke offerings, however in this guide we’re focusing on their ready-to-wear lines. We’ve also included an indication of their ready-to-wear price point, categorised as below.
- $: under $500USD
- $$: $500 to $1000USD
- $$$: $1000 to $2000USD
- $$$$: over $2000USD
1. John Lobb
John Lobb is a brand of two parts. While it’s often cited as a quintessentially British brand—and it is!—John Lobb actually got its start in 1849, manufacturing hollow-heeled boots for Australian miners (the hollow-heel acting as the ideal hidey-hole for storing those covetable gold nuggets). The eponymous entrepreneur opened his first shop in London in 1866, with John Lobb quickly becoming the go-to shoemaker for British royalty and remains the preferred brand for King Charles to this day. The brand expanded to Paris in the early 1900s, with the brand’s French operations later acquired by Hermès in the mid-1970s.
The epitome of traditional English shoemaking style, John Lobb shoes are classic and consistent in their design. Staying true to traditional shoemaking techniques, John Lobb shoes err on the conservative side — while we’d recommend branching out and experimenting with funkier styles when it comes to loafers, a pair of John Lobb monk straps, derbies, or oxfords is a worthy investment that will last a lifetime. That said, the brand has been incorporating some welcome contemporary touches into its ready-to-wear line of late, proving it’s far from staid.
Established in: 1849
Founder: John Lobb
Headquarters: London, United Kingdom (original location); Paris, France (branch opened around 1901)
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $$$
2. George Cleverley
George Cleverly founded his eponymous brand in 1958. Upon its founding, George Cleverley was a solely bespoke operation, with its style sitting firmly in the old school English camp. Today, the brand offers ready-to-wear men’s dress shoes alongside its bespoke operation, with the former retaining the hallmarks of the latter — think robust Goodyear welt construction and classic, structured silhouettes. The brand’s standard ready-to-wear selection offers quintessential dress shoe styles at reasonable prices, while the newer ‘semi-bespoke’ Anthony Cleverley range errs more rakish, with the handmade line introducing square toes, burnished leathers, and slimmer proportions into the mix.
Established in: 1958
Founder: George Cleverley
Headquarters: London, England
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $$
3. Gaziano & Girling
A relative newcomer to the British footwear industry, Gaziano & Girling was founded by Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling in 2006, becoming the first brand in a century to open a new factory in Northampton, widely considered the shoemaking capital of the world. While English shoes are renowned for their durability and longevity, they’re traditionally very structured and have a heft to them. Meanwhile, Italian shoes are known for their more refined, contemporary profiles, with longer and slimmer proportions, softer leathers, and lightweight construction that feels akin to a slipper on the foot. Uniting the best of English and Italian shoemaking tradition, Gaziano & Girling combines the craftsmanship style and sturdiness of the former with the elegant profile, contemporary aesthetic, and comfort of the latter.
Established in: 2006
Founders: Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling
Headquarters: Kettering, Northampton, England
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $$$
4. Berluti
Parisian label Berluti has played a significant role in shaping the aesthetic of men’s leather dress shoes in France. Founded in Paris by Italian-born Alessandro Berluti in 1895, Berluti began as a bespoke shoemaker before expanding into ready-to-wear, bags and small leather goods, and clothing. While its remit isn’t as curated as it was in the 19th century, classic men’s leather dress shoes (both bespoke and ready-to-wear) remain at the heart of the brand’s offering. Its key styles are chisel-toe loafers and wholecut oxfords, crafted from patinated leathers and featuring the brand’s signature ‘Scritto’ (engraved text) detailing. The Berluti lineup contains some of the most expensive ready-to-wear men’s dress shoes on the market; costing upwards of $2000USD, their price points are more at par with English made-to-measure and Italian and Japanese bespoke prices.
Established in: 1895
Founder: Alessandro Berluti
Headquarters: Paris, France
Construction: Goodyear welted or Blake stitched
Budget: $$$$
5. Carmina
To this day, Spanish shoemaking has yet to garner the same recognition as its English and Italian counterparts. However, Matías Pujadas was an early proponent of the craft, founding Carmina on the Spanish isle of Mallorca in 1866. A family owned business to this day—it’s currently helmed by José Albaladejo Pujadas, the founder’s great-grandson—Carmina represents an affordable entry point into high-quality, Goodyear welted men’s dress shoes. Carmina offers a robust selection of lasts designed to cater to various foot shapes and aesthetics, simplifying the process of finding ready-to-wear shoes that suit idiosyncratic tastes. While the brand employs traditional shoemaking techniques, appearances balance classic with contemporary, with clean lines and chiseled toes sitting alongside old school driving shoes and sleek opera pumps.
Established in: 1866
Founder: Matías Pujadas
Headquarters: Inca, Mallorca, Spain
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $$
6. J.M. Weston
For guys who like their dress shoes with a touch of edge, French heritage brand J.M. Weston got its start manufacturing riding boots and hard-bottomed derbies for hunters. However, it’s the brand’s foray into loafers that has made it a classic in the preppy footwear lexicon. J.M. Weston 180 Loafers are characterised by a shortened vamp, heightened side wall, and Norwegian-style split toe. Constructed with a Goodyear welt, it’s a satisfyingly chunky loafer style that’s well equipped to handle the more rugged side of urban life.
It seems at odds with the notion of dress shoes to say they ‘go hard’, but J.M. Weston shoes really do. The brand’s rubber-soled Golf Derby shoes see the grippy all-terrain soles paired with rounded toes and apron seams for a sportier take on the style, while the Fusain line highlights formal design purity through elegant, uninterrupted lines, wholecut uppers, and considered details.
Established in: 1891
Founder: Édouard Blanchard
Headquarters: Limoges, France
Construction: Goodyear welted or Blake stitched
Budget: $$
7. Scarosso
Scarosso is one of a few emerging menswear brands that seeks to offer luxury products at relatively affordable prices by ‘cutting out the middleman’. Offering both casual and dress shoes, Scarosso highlights its ‘Made in Italy’ credentials on the insoles of its shoes, with its footwear manufactured in Montenegro. The brand creates contemporary takes on traditional styles, with its woven monk strap shoes and Chelsea boots with coloured gussets making for a sharp sartorial statement.
Established in: 2010
Founders: Moritz Offeney and Marco Reiter
Headquarters: Milan, Italy
Construction: Blake stitched (rapid)
Budget: $
8. Paraboot
Heritage French brand Paraboot has been making stylish shoes for well over a century. However, it’s the brand pioneering of rubber soles on mountain boots that served as its claim to fame, with Paraboot continuing to produce some of the coolest vintage-style hiking boots on the market to this day. The brand was also seminal in its early adoption of the Norwegian welt construction method which it continues to use in its derby shoes and hiking boots today. Meanwhile, the brand’s boat shoes make use of Blake stitched construction and exude heritage appeal, making for a cooler alternative to preppier takes by the likes of Sperry and Ralph Lauren.
Established in: 1908
Founder: Rémy Richard
Headquarters: Saint-Jean-de-Moirans, France
Construction: Norwegian stitched, Goodyear welted, or Blake stitched
Budget: $$
9. Heschung
Located in northeastern France, Alsatian brand Heschung got its start manufacturing hiking boots and work shoes with reverse welt or Goodyear welt construction. The brand subsequently delved into leather ski boots, with its genuine reverse welt stitching instrumental in ensuring waterproofness, and went onto become the official supplier of the French ski team. Today, the family business is helmed by Pierre Heschung—grandson of founder Eugène Heschung—who has reinterpreted the reverse welt and Goodyear welt across collections that offer a slightly tougher take on traditional dress shoes. Featuring rubber soles and reverse welt construction, Heschung’s derby shoes are an apt fit for urban explorers. Meanwhile, the brand’s Goodyear welted oxford shoes are satisfyingly traditional, crafted with leather soles and featuring clean lines and cap toes.
Established in: 1934
Founder: Eugène Heschung
Headquarters: Steinbourg, France
Construction: reverse welted or Goodyear welted
Budget: $$
10. Bobbies
Another brand priding itself on cutting out the much maligned middleman, French footwear label Bobbies offers affordable leather shoes for casual and formal wear. Headquartered in Paris and crafted in Portugal and Spain, Bobbies shoes employ either Blake stitched or Goodyear welted construction (the latter within a dedicated line on the brand’s webstore) and span all the usual suspects when it comes to men’s dress shoes — think loafers, oxfords, derbies, and boots. Highlights are the Arsène, an elevated take on classic Jodhpur boots, and the Jean-Coltrane, an elegant pair of almond-toe oxford shoes.
Established in: 2010
Founders: Antoine Bolze and Alexis Maugey
Headquarters: Paris, France
Construction: Blake stitched or Goodyear welted
Budget: $
11. Crockett & Jones
Northampton stalwart Crockett & Jones represents the upper echelons of traditional English shoemaking. Founded by brothers-in-law Charles Jones and James Crockett in 1879, the family owned business has outfitted the well-heeled heels of two members of the British royal family—King George VI and Prince Charles—as well as silver screen royalty Daniel Craig, who sported them as James Bond in Skyfall and Spectre. Acting as a paragon of traditional shoemaking, Crockett & Jones men’s dress shoes utilise Goodyear welt construction and balance a sturdy build and wider fit with a refined appearance. While the Crockett & Jones aesthetic sits firmly in the conservative court, the heritage brand showcases its design flair through brogued details and two-tone leather options.
Established in: 1879
Founders: James Crockett and Charles Jones
Headquarters: Northampton, England
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $$-$$$
12. Corthay
While the men’s dress shoe lineups of French footwear brands like Paraboot and Heschung were begat by their origins in crafting utilitarian mountaineering and ski boots, fellow Gallic brand Corthay has unabashedly catered to the dandies and Pitti peacocks of the world since its inception. Founded by John Lobb and Berluti alumnus Pierre Corthay in 1990, the brand is known for its singular use of patina, with the brand employing the technique as a means to create shoes that act as jewels for the feet. Silhouettes are decidedly European, with their exacting cuts, slim fits, and unique lines differentiating them from English men’s dress shoes.
Established in: 1990
Founder: Pierre Corthay
Headquarters: Paris, France
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $$$$
13. Edward Green
Veering back into more traditional waters, Edward Green represents the pinnacle of proper English shoemaking. The Northampton shoemaker produces just 350 pairs of ready-to-wear shoes a week and has stayed true to the construction and aesthetic principles of traditional English style; expect subdued silhouettes defined by their refined lines and exceptional comfort. For those whose vibe leans more gentleman’s club than streetwear, look to the loafers made on the brand’s ‘184’ lasts — an eternal classic, they serve as the basis for the Piccadilly and Belgravia styles and are characterised by their almond toe, bevelled waist, and comfortable fit combined with a relatively slim look.
Established in: 1890
Founder: Edward Green
Headquarters: Northampton, England
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $$$
14. Yohei Fukuda
After learning the art of shoemaking in Northamptonshire, John Lobb, George Cleverley, and Gaziano & Girling alumnus Yohei Fukada established his eponymous brand in Tokyo and has come to be recognised as one of Japan’s foremost master shoemakers. Notably, Yohei Fukuda has managed to reconcile traditional English shoemaking techniques while finding a balance between the country’s distinctly sturdy style and the more dandyish-leaning aesthetics that come to the fray in Italian shoemaking. Today, Yohei Fukuda shoes harmonise precision with softness; lines are sleek and chiseled yet rounded off, while the bevelled waist is narrow without sacrificing comfort.
While Yohei Fukuda’s ready-to-wear offering sits at the pointy end of the scale when it comes to budget, those who value impeccable craftsmanship and a distinct visual language will be well pleased with the result.
Established in: 2008
Founder: Yohei Fukuda
Headquarters: Tokyo, Japan
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $$$$
15. Hereu
In spite of a shoemaking industry dating back to ancient times and being the country many emerging footwear brands outsource their production to, Spanish shoemaking is rarely afforded the same credit as its English, French, or Italian counterparts. However, the nation isn’t to be overlooked, with Spanish shoemaking prioritising hand-sewn construction while being imbued with a sense of lightness and unpretentiousness. Deserving of a look in is Hereu, which creates elevated fisherman sandals and novel takes on men’s dress shoes — think deconstructed woven slingback loafers, Chelsea boots with moc-toe detailing, and a hybridised mary jane loafer.
Established in: 2014
Founders: José Luis Bartolomé and Albert Escribano
Headquarters: Barcelona, Spain
Construction: traditional moccasin construction (hand-stitched uppers)
Budget: $$
16. Jacques Solovière
For those who recoil from the norm and want to lace up without coming across as strait-laced, Jacques Solovière offers a more eccentric take on men’s dress shoes. The brand isn’t afraid to play with convention, with chunky silhouettes with distinctive design details reigning supreme. Think two-tone Belgian loafers, derbies with a pinched vamp, and loafer and monk shoe hybrids. Making seriously good shoes for guys who don’t take themselves too seriously, clompers from Jacques Solovière stand out for good reason. It’s worth noting that the brand uses both rapid Blake stitched and cemented construction; as mentioned before, we’d recommend sticking to styles that employ the former method and avoiding cemented construction.
Established in: 2014
Founder: Alexis Lafont
Headquarters: Paris, France
Construction: Blake stitched (rapid) or cemented
Budget: $
17. Meermin
Another Spanish outfit working to democratise the illustrious world of Goodyear welted men’s dress shoes, Meermin offers handsome, well-made shoes at affordable prices. One of the first brands to employ the direct-to-consumer model, Meermin’s value to price ratio remains unmatched, with its dress shoes crafted from French, Italian, and Japanese leathers and boasting Goodyear welted construction for under $250USD. We’ll take two pairs, thanks.
Established in: 2001
Founders: José Antonio and Sandro Palma
Headquarters: Mallorca, Spain
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $
18. Morjas
Like Meemin, Swedish upstart Morjas nails the direct-to-consumer offering, with its Goodyear welted shoes priced well below $500USD. Where it excels though, is its delivery of more idiosyncratic styles alongside the classics. In addition to the usual suspects—penny loafers, Chelsea boots, brogued derby shoes, oxford shoes—expect to find Belgian loafers, opera pumps, and hybrid hiking boots that combine all-terrain capabilities with the silhouette of a derby.
Established in: 2017
Founder: Henrik Berg
Headquarters: Stockholm, Sweden
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $
19. Aubercy
Another quintessence of dandyism, Aubercy got its start crafting footwear designed to meet the singular tastes and exacting standards of Parisian high society. Slightly pinched without being overly narrow, Aubercy shoes are defined by their chiseled lines and use of vibrant leathers and suedes. Among its men’s dress shoes, the Parisian brand also offers an idiosyncratic take on a sneaker, although this is more akin to an oxford shoe than the kicks most of us are accustomed to.
Established in: 1935
Founders: André and Renée Aubercy
Headquarters: Paris, France
Construction: Blake stitched or Goodyear welted
Budget: $$$-$$$$
20. Etymology
It would be remiss of us not to include homegrown brand Etymology. If you value vibes over pontification about lasts, fiddleback waists, and welts, Etymology is likely the brand for you. That said, while it’s the newest men’s dress shoe brand on this list, Etymology doesn’t skimp on traditional craftsmanship, instead marrying it with contemporary design that draws inspiration from enduring elements found in architecture, furniture, music, and art. Handmade in Spain, the brand’s remit currently comprises a curated suite of loafers and oxford shoes. The brand’s lookbooks are also impeccably curated and well worth a look in if you’re in need of styling inspiration.
Established in: 2023
Founders: Albert Phung, William Phung, and Gabriel Abi-Saab
Headquarters: Sydney, Australia
Construction: Goodyear welted
Budget: $
Enjoyed this guide to men’s dress shoes? Check out our other men’s style guides here.
Words by John Deckard
