Fragrances by luxury fashion houses appeal to a wide demographic and are bound to amass you a fair few compliments on the way. However, you’re likely to pass by several other people also sporting your scent. Thankfully, the industry extends far beyond designer fragrances is continually growing, with niche perfumes catering to those who seek out distinct scents.
Want us to stop talking? Skip ahead to discover the best niche perfumes.
Unlike the mass-produced designer scents common to fashion houses, niche perfumes or fragrances do not necessarily attempt to appeal to the masses. Here, the goal often isn’t commercial popularity, but sensory storytelling — the ability to capture a feeling, concept, emotion, or vibe within a fragrance. The best niche perfumes boast an alluring depth and complexity, with nuanced notes contributing to a distinctive scent that’s not always easy to identify upon first smell. Niche perfume houses tend to manufacture their fragrances in limited quantities, catering to an esoteric (i.e. niche) target clientele who enjoy idiosyncratic olfactory profiles.
With mainstream interest in fragrance on the rise, more consumers are seeking out niche perfumes in a bid to differentiate themselves from the hordes of Dior Sauvage and Le Labo Santal 33 wearers on the street. As a result, the niche fragrance industry is thriving — making it difficult to differentiate the hits from the misses. We acknowledge that niche perfumes don’t come cheap (they’re often double, if not triple, the cost of designer fragrances), so it can be frustrating to discover you don’t like a fragrance after purchasing it.
So, we’ve done the hard work for you. Over the past decade, we’ve tried hundreds of niche perfumes; many are an immediate ‘no’, several we go back to for a second sniff, some make it onto the skin for a day or a week, and a select few we purchase full bottles of and add to our permanent collections.
To get you started on your niche perfume journey, we’ve compiled the fragrances we keep going back to — plus a few that we mightn’t necessarily ‘like’, but are still worth looking into for their daring olfactive profiles.
What is a niche perfume?
Before we get into unpacking our favourites, it’s helpful to define what a niche perfume or fragrance actually is. There has been heated debate about the exact definition of a niche perfume (hey, fragrance is a high stakes industry!). However, the most widely accepted definition is a fragrance released by a brand that exclusively makes fragrance (and potentially fragrance adjacent products like candles and home scents). Sometimes, though it’s not too common today, these brands will have an in-house nose (perfumer).
By definition this is relatively broad and doesn’t quite encompass the colloquial implication that accompanies the term ‘niche perfume’. The term ‘niche perfume’ is often used to connote a fragrance that’s unique, different, or distinct. However, perfume houses that are by definition ‘niche’ can produce relatively generic smelling fragrances while some designer houses produce wonderfully creative and even wacky scents (Maison Margiela Replica, Comme des Garçons, and Costume National spring to mind). Keep in mind that Le Labo is technically a niche fragrance house, but Santal 33 is so ubiquitous that it feels generic.
So, in addition to being produced by a brand that solely specialises in fragrance, we’d also add that a niche perfume has to have a certain je ne sais quoi; a distinctive, but perhaps ineffable or indefinable quality that sets it apart from the masses.
That said, it’s important not to get too bogged down in semantics — some of the niche fragrances on this list fit the above definition to a tee, such as the weird creations of Orto Parisi or the clever concoctions by État libre d’Orange. Others might come from larger (but still niche) perfume houses like Creed and Penhaligon’s which boast more mass recognition, yet still create individualistic scents that beg to be worn again and again.
Niche vs indie fragrances
Ah, more semantics! The terms ‘niche’ and ‘indie’ are often thrown around interchangeably. Indie perfume houses are those which are independently owned, with the idea being that the owner has complete control over the conceptualisation and production of their fragrances. This stands in contrast to larger niche perfume houses which often have a creative director leading the nose/perfumer and may be answerable to upper management.
Niche perfume houses may be owned by a larger conglomerate. For example, Kilian Paris is owned by Estée Lauder and Creed is owned by Kering. Hence, while both are niche, neither is indie.
Often, niche perfume houses start off indie but eventually lose this status. Take Byredo, for example. Founded by Ben Gorham in 2006, the Swedish niche perfume house was a favourite in the indie department. However, in 2013, Gorham sold a majority stake to London-based investment firm Manzanita Capital, with Puig acquiring a majority stake in 2022. Gorham is still the creative director behind Byredo, but the brand is no longer considered indie (it’s still niche, though).
The best niche perfumes to try in 2024
1. Ex Nihilo Vetiver Moloko
Price: approx. $320AUD (€195)
Scent notes: bergamot, Bulgarian rose, cypress, milk accord, vetiver, amyris, Madagascar vanilla
Named after a Latin expression meaning ‘out of nothing’, Parisian indie fragrance label Ex Nihilo creates fragrances without previously known references, making for distinctly unique scents. Inspired by avant-garde styles and French refinement, Ex Nihilo offers predominantly unisex scents, with a select few created specifically for women.
What we think: “I’ve long been a fan of vetiver as a scent note, however usually find it in more fresh, earthy fragrances. Here, the vetiver takes on a bright, citrusy tone which intermingles with creamy, lactonic milk notes to bring a comforting element to the typically punchy note. Smooth and soft, it’s simultaneously masculine and feminine.” — John Deckard, publisher
Brand: Ex Nihilo
Founders: Sylvie Loday, Olivier Royère, Benoît Verdier
Established in: 2013
Indie? Yes
2. Maison Crivelli Oud Stallion
Price: $362AUD
Scent notes: cardamom, saffron, nutmeg, osmanthus, jasmine, rose, oud, leather, tonka bean, patchouli, cedarwood
Mysterious and evocative, Maison Crivelli fragrances are known for their olfactory storytelling. Informed by his upbringing in France and subsequent time living in China and other Asian countries, founder Thibaud Crivelli places an emphasis on natural ingredients and embraces an unconstrained, multi-sensorial approach when it comes to fragrance development (think moodboards depicting an experience or vibe over a formulaic scent notes). Recalling the smell of oud while attending horse races, Maison Crivelli Oud Stallion is spicy, smoky, and deep.
What we think: “To me, this one smells more akin to an oriental market than a horse race. That said, it’s been a long time since I’ve been trackside. Cardamom, saffron, and nutmeg instantly transport me to the bustling markets of India, with spices sold alongside handworked leather goods and women weaving garlands of jasmine to give as offerings to the gods. There’s a slight floral note from the rose and sweetness from the tonka bean which aid in offsetting the more heady ingredients. Definitely not for the faint of heart (or nose!), it’s an absolute powerhouse of a fragrance — best worn on a chilly day and sprayed with a light touch.” — Tanisha Angel, editor
Brand: Maison Crivelli
Founder: Thibaud Crivelli
Established in: 2018
Indie? Yes
3. Xerjoff Naxos
Price: $399AUD
Scent notes: bergamot, lemon, lavender, jasmine sambac, cinnamon, honey, cashmere, tobacco leaf, tonka beans, vanilla
Italian niche perfume house Xerjoff was founded in Turin in 2007 by Sergio Momo and Dominique Salvo and has since become renowned for its fusion of old world artisanal craftsmanship with contemporary creativity. Meticulous layering and blending of fragrance notes lends each Xerjoff fragrance an appealing olfactive depth. Proving that the best niche perfumes don’t necessarily have to be polarising, with Xerjoff creations like Naxos, Opera, Nio, and Richwood beloved by—almost—all who smell them. The brand’s Italian identity informs many of its creations; Xerjoff Naxos pays homage to the unparalleled Mediterranean landscape with a bright hit of lemon and lavender softened with cashmere woods, tonka bean, and honey.
What we think: “Naxos is familiar without being predictable — the honey, lavender, and tobacco notes are the most prominent for me. It smells like a lush body wash or soap and is faintly nostalgic, however there are no comparable fragrances like it. It’s also a compliment magnet; whenever I wear it, I’m invariably approached by guys and girls wanting to know what it is.” — Theo Rosen, journalist
Brand: Xerjoff
Founders: Sergio Momo, Dominique Salvo
Established in: 2007
Indie? Yes
4. Initio Parfums Narcotic Delight
Price: $489AUD
Scent notes: cherry, cognac, vanilla, black pepper, pink pepper, tobacco
A niche perfume brand for those who like to express their sensuality sensorially, Initio Parfums explores the pheromonal force of fragrances (i.e. the ability of a fragrance to influence or attract others). Initio Parfums divides its scents into distinct categories, including Absolutes, which focus on natural ingredients; Hedonist, which is dedicated to pleasure; and Carnal, which aims to induce physical attraction. Sitting within the latter range, Initio Parfums Narcotic Delight is a dark, soft fragrance defined by intoxicating cognac and bright pink pepper notes, layered with subtle cherry and a hint of vanilla.
What we think: “All niche perfume houses have their specialties, and Initio Parfums’ forte lies in its ability to develop on the skin. Cherry is often used as a sweet opening note; here it’s more understated and follows a boozy hit of cognac and pink pepper. I found Narcotic Delight took its time evolving on my skin throughout the day; several hours after spritzing, I was left with an almost ashy tobacco (not unlike the smell on your fingers after smoking a cigarette) and creamy vanilla. Also, it literally lasts forever.” — Tanisha Angel, editor
Brand: Initio Parfums
Founder: Julien Sprecher/Sprecher Berrier Group
Established in: 2015
Indie? No
5. Kayali Cafe Oud
Price: $241AUD
Scent notes: bergamot, mandarin, cappuccino, geranium, rose damascena, vanilla, white musk, patchouli, oud
The brainchild of Mona Kattan (YouTuber and sister of Huda Beauty founder Huda Kattan), Kayali is one of those niche perfume brands with mass appeal. Technically niche if we’re going with the by the book definition (the brand solely produces fragrances), the Kayali Vanilla 28 and Burning Cherry fragrances have blown up ok TikTok several times over. However the brand’s aptly named Oudgasm range is an underrated gem, exploring the luxurious sensuality of oud through a line of lush Middle Eastern-inspired scents. Kayali Cafe Oud is our pick of the bunch, with smooth, silky notes of milky coffee and vanilla layered with oud and soft musks.
What we think: “This is one of my favourite perfume discoveries of the past few years, the lactonic coffee pairs perfectly with the depth of oud — I carry the 10mL bottle in my bag at all times. I once applied this in the back of a cab (yes poor etiquette, but can’t turn up to an event unscented!) and the driver thanked me for “making his car smell so nice.” We ended up chatting about fragrances for the rest of the drive; he likes Creed Aventus and Acqua di Parma Colonia Club (good taste) but told me Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue was his crowd-pleasing driving fragrance.” — Tanisha Angel, editor
Brand: Kayali
Founder: Mona Kattan
Established in: 2018
Indie? Yes
6. Vyrao Witchy Woo
Price: $199AUD
Scent notes: orris, rose, cinnamon, black pepper, patchouli, frankincense, sandalwood, white musk, iris
Founded by Yasmin Sewell in 2021, niche perfume brand Vyrao is part of a growing crop of wellness-oriented ‘functional fragrances’. Each Vyrao fragrance prioritises science-packed natural ingredients (think fragrance oils and plant and flower essences) chosen for their ability to influence mood and is infused with an energised crystal. Even if you’re not into the whole vibey approach to perfumery, you’ll enjoy Vyrao Witchy Woo. designed to promote courage and creativity, it’s a deep, earthy scent that sees nutmeg, cinnamon, and black pepper wrapped in powdery iris, frankincense, and incense, and underscored by grounding patchouli and sandalwood.
What we think: “This definitely smells ‘witchy’. I don’t usually like cinnamon in fragrances, however it’s imperceptible to me here — the initial hit of spices quickly evolves into incense and rose, with a powdery element thanks to the orris. It settles down into a comforting earthy, woody scent with patchouli, incense, and sandalwood lingering the longest on the skin.” — Arabella Johnson, beauty editor
Brand: Vyrao
Founder: Yasmin Sewell
Established in: 2021
Indie? Yes
7. Stéphane Humbert Lucas God of Fire
Price: approx. $320AUD (€195)
Scent notes: mango, lemon, pink berries, ginger, blue coumarin, jasmine, dry woods, oud, nagarmotha, musk, amber
One for the gourmand girlies (and guys)! Stéphane Humbert Lucas makes some of the most sublime gourmand fragrances out there today. Painter and poet Stéphane Humbert Lucas was convinced every colour was accompanied by a distinct scent, with his synesthesia meaning the stimulation of his sight triggers his smell. With Lucas creating fragrances he’s already ‘seen’ through colour, the Parisian niche perfume house is both innovative and evocative — and, his artistic background shows in the distinctive bottles the perfumes are housed in. Stéphane Humbert Lucas God of Fire is a rich sensorial journey, boasting a nuance not often seen in predominantly fruity fragrances. Mango, red berries, tart fruits, and candied ginger provide a sweet opening, which quickly fade into a woody, ambery musk.
What we think: “God of Fire wasn’t love at first spray for me. I’m not too big on fruity scents and initially found it too sweet. However, the initial burst of fruity notes dries down into comforting dry woods and musk. It’s still sweet and gourmand, but doesn’t shout. If you don’t like it on paper, I’d recommend trying it on skin; it evolves much better and shows more depth as the hours pass.” — John Deckard, publisher
Brand: Stéphane Humbert Lucas
Founder: Stéphane Humbert Lucas
Established in: 2012
Indie? Yes
8. Le Labo Thé Noir 29
Price: $355AUD
Scent notes: fig, bay leaf, bergamot, cedarwood, vetiver, musk, tobacco, hay
Cult indie fragrance brand Le Labo has made a name for itself creating unique, genderless scents that spark conversation and leave a trace long after you’re gone. While the New York-based label’s ever-popular Santal 33 has been co-opted by everyone from soccer moms to boutique hotels, Le Labo Thé Noir 29 brings something new to the table. Combining depth with freshness and softness with strength, Thé Noir 29 features notes of bergamot, fig, and bay leaves contrasted with cedarwood, vetiver, and musk. The combination is encased in black tea, making for an intoxicatingly sensual scent.
What we think: “This is by far my favourite Le Labo fragrance. I’m somewhat biased as I do love the smell of black tea, however it mingles well here with fig, tobacco, and vetiver to create a fresh yet mysterious genderless fragrance.” — Henry Blake, journalist
Brand: Le Labo
Founder: Eddie Roschi, Fabrice Penot
Established in: 2006
Indie? No
9. Penhaligon’s
Price: from $285AUD
As a barber on one of London’ most fashionable streets, William Henry Penhaligon got his start in the grooming industry by creating his own products to sell to his clients. In 1872, he produced his first olfactory creation; Hammam Bouquet, inspired by the Turkish Baths where he was resident barber. Beloved by the British royal family, Penhaligon’s is far from unknown, however due to the sheer vastness of the British niche perfume brand’s range, there are still a few fragrances that still go (relatively) under the radar. Penhaligon’s is a favourite here at Albert Review, with most of the team having a go-to scent (or two) from the brand.
What we think: “I am not a gentleman. But, The Tragedy of Lord George makes me feel like I could don a tweed jacket and join some fellow tweed-wearers for a spot of pigeon shooting in the woods behind ole Harrison Bruschetta Aberdeen the 3rd’s (great guy!) manor before retreating to the library for a nip of brandy. A fougère scent, it’s got notes of lavender, spices, soap, that all important brandy, and woods.” — Henry Blake, journalist
“Sartorial. Refined without being boring, it’s an uncomplicated fougère with a classic blend of lavender, honey, oakmoss, tobacco, and vanilla. There’s also a slightly synthetic starchiness here; recalling the faintly metallic scent released as a hot iron makes contact with a crisp white shirt.” — John Deckard, publisher
“Penhaligon’s has a great number of complex scents, but I love the elegant purity of Elisabethan Rose. While it’s one of the most common ingredients in perfumery, I feel like rose tends to be either overpowering or overpowered in many fragrances — here, it’s light and dainty, with the airy softness of rose captured though notes of rosewater, rose jam, and a hint of creamy almonds and hazelnuts.” — Tanisha Angel, editor
Brand: Penhaligon’s
Founder: William Henry Penhaligon
Established in: 1870
Indie? No
10. Nasomatto Nudiflorum
Price: $285AUD
Scent notes: rhubarb, raspberry, rose, salicylate, animalic accord, cedar, leather, oakmoss
If eccentricity and maximalism is your thing, indie fragrance label Nasomatto is the fragrance house for you. Meaning ‘crazy nose’ in Italian, Nasomatto is helmed by Alessandro Gualtieri, an eccentric scent creator with a knack for creating unpredictable fragrances. Sexy and sensual, yet primitive and carnal, Nudiflorum is an exploration of desire; the result of a quest to find the vanishing point in nature, the translucent of our senses. Rich in abstract florals and woody notes, Nasomatto Nudiflorum is intimacy in a bottle, evoking feelings of liberation and tranquillity through the exploration of touch.
What we think: “This is a weird sexy. Like a gardener having a clandestine meeting with the matriarch of an old money family in a musty storage room, bumping up against long abandoned leather sofas and wooden ottomans. It’s feminine but dirty, thanks to the leather, tobacco, and animalic accord.” —Tanisha Angel, editor
Brand: Nasomatto
Founder: Alessandro Gualtieri
Established in: 2007
Indie? Yes
11. Stora Skuggan Thumbsucker
Price: $250AUD
Scent notes: honey, narcissus, violet, cherry, cedarwood, bitter almond, balsam, candle wax
Is that a Stora Skuggan bottle in your pocket, or are you just happy to see me? Oversized spherical lids aside, Swedish niche perfume brand Stora Skuggan’s creations match the mythical vibe of the orbs that top them. Founded by a quartet of multidisciplinary artists who met while studying a decade prior, Stora Skuggan aims to blur the lines between myth and reality. The brand creates a distinct universe for each fragrance — Stora Skuggan Thumbsucker is based on the Hindu story of King Yuvanashva, who—in his desperation to have a child—accidentally drinks a pregnancy potion meant for his wife and ends up feeding the child through the life-giving nectar that now surges through his thumb. Which is ostensibly why babies suck their thumbs — but of course! The olfactory interpretation is sweet and nostalgic, with—like any dysfunctional family—a little shame, conveyed through an intense hit of honey, powdery violet, and a touch of bitter almond and cherry.
What we think: “I like it. I hate it. I don’t know how I feel about it. It’s kinda nostalgic but also unfamiliar. Every time I wear it, it seems to smell different; sometimes the honey notes come through strongest, other times it’s a more medicinal cherry and powdery violet are the most prominent. Stora Skuggan is a perfume house worth looking into, but definitely try before you buy.” — Theo Rosen, journalist
Brand: Stora Skuggan
Founders: Anna Barkne, Tomas Hempel, Olle Hemmendorff, Jonas Nordin & Martin Nicolausson
Established in: 2015
Indie? Yes
12. Vilhelm Parfumerie Dear Polly
Price: $317AUD
Scent notes: bergamot, apple, black tea, oakmoss, musk, black amber
Founded by former model Jan Ahlgren in 2015, New York-based Vilhelm Parfumerie thinks of scents as different narratives. Housed in identical bottles, each scent makes up an olfactory library. Vilhelm Parfumerie Dear Polly finds beauty in the quotidian, with the simple act of brewing a tea in the morning recalled through notes of apple, bergamot, black tea, musk, and amber.
What we think: “I adore the smell of loose leaf earl grey tea and Dear Polly captures it perfectly. It’s cosy and familiar, but there’s also an undercurrent of sensuality from the musky notes.” — Esmé Duggan, journalist
Brand: Vilhelm Parfumerie
Founder: Jan Ahlgren
Established in: 2015
Indie? No
13. Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower
Price: $317AUD
Scent notes: tuberose, eucalyptus, jasmine, coconut, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, white musk, melon, bergamot
In a time when mass-appeal fragrances informed by consumer tests and marketing research were dominating the world of perfumery, Frédéric Malle founded his eponymous brand to place creative control back in the hands (and noses) of perfumers. Giving noses the ultimate freedom to craft their dream scents without constraints, Frédéric Malle puts the emphasis on the art of perfumery and shines the spotlight on its olfactive artists. Eschewing convention, Frédéric Malle names the perfumers of each creation on the bottle; you’ll find the creator’s name front and centre in white, sitting above the creation’s name.
Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower showcases the multifaceted nature of tuberose and jasmine; the white florals starts off fresh and pure with notes of green melon and eucalyptus, before animalic and musky notes take over to create an almost dirty scent that’s deliciously addictive. A hint of coconut towards the end gives it a creamy finish.
What we think: “I had a borderline erotic encounter with the (very attractive) fragrance specialist at a department store in London that shall remain unnamed. After he and I trialled several Frédéric Malle fragrances on paper, Carnal Flower made it onto the skin. He then proceeded to gently run his nose from my wrist to the crook of my elbow before huskily declaring that this was the scent for me. Marketing ploy? Perhaps. But I did smell amazing.” —Tanisha Angel, editor
Brand: Frédéric Malle
Founder: Frédéric Malle
Established in: 2000
Indie? No
14. Thameen Fanfare
Price: $488AUD (£250)
Scent notes: lemon, neroli, bergamot, florals, vermouth, juniper berries, rosemary, vetiver, musk, patchouli
Niche perfume brand Thameen London is a relatively new brand dedicated to telling the stories that shape British culture and heritage. Inspired by the flower market at Covent Garden, Thameen Fanfare sees watery florals (think juicy citrus and neroli) evolve into light gin and tonic notes of juniper berries and vermouth, before settling into powdery musks and earthy vetiver.
What we think: “Every Thameen fragrance I’ve tried has lasted forever, sometimes even after showering. It’s rare to find a floral fragrance with this kind of longevity, but Thameen Fanfare manages to do it, with a relatively realistic depiction of a flower garden.” —Henry Blake, journalist
Brand: Thameen
Founder: Basel Binjabr
Established in: 2013
Indie? Yes
15. Creed Original Vétiver
Price: $369AUD
Scent notes: ginger, green notes, lemon, vetiver, floral accord, coriander, cypress, white musks, cedarwood, guaiac wood
Creed is a British icon. While the family-run business is quick to cite its 18th century origins as a tailoring business founded by Henry James Creed, evidence shows that the brand only started creating niche perfumes in the late 20th century, under the helm of 6th generation Olivier Creed. While its backstory is a little vague, there’s no denying the influence of Creed on modern perfumery, with fragrances like Aventus, Green Irish Tweed, and Silver Mountain Water setting a precedent for scents to come. Creed Original Vétiver is one of our favourites. Using the root, leaves, and stem of the vetiver plant, it showcases the multifaceted nature of vetiver, from its bright, verdant opening to its soapy, clean finish.
What we think: “If you’re after a clean, fresh scent, it’s hard to go wrong with something from Creed. Original Vétiver is one of my favourite interpretations of vetiver on the market — no other scent seems to capture its essence quite as well. That said, longevity isn’t the best (likely because it doesn’t use synthetics), but it’s worth it for the scent.” — John Deckard, publisher
Brand: Creed
Founder: Henry James Creed
Established in: 1760
Indie? No
16. Orto Parisi Seminalis
Price: $330AUD
Scent notes: undisclosed (yes very helpful, we know)
Founded by Alessandro Gualtieri, the same creative behind Nasomatto, Orto Parisi creates some of the weirdest fragrances on the market. Bold and provocative, they showcase the power—and often the sensuality—of nature. Want something that smells like manure…but sexy? Try Orto Parisi Stercus. Alternatively, Seminalis is milky, creamy, woody, and nostalgic, while being dirty, sweaty, and irresistible.
What we think: “Do not buy any of these based on the notes without trying them on your skin. Orto Parisi scents are so distinct and smell nothing like their olfactive notes alone can convey. Many of them are simultaneously repulsive yet addictive — we don’t ‘recommend’ them in the traditional “go out and buy this” sense, but we do recommend knowing about (and smelling) them.” — Tanisha Angel, editor
Words by T. Angel and Arabella Johnson
