Unlike more ‘gentlemanly’ hobbies like golf, tennis, and sailing, hiking isn’t a typical source of stylistic inspiration. However, with the advent of dad style, came several unlikely trends, including technical backpacks, fleece, insulated jackets, and hiking boots. Ruggedly stylish yet functional, the latter is a sartorial takeaway that works both on the trails and the streets.
While #gorpcore has embraced contemporary, technically innovative hiking boots which are crafted from lightweight materials like mesh, durable synthetic fibres, and Gore-Tex and rendered in bold colours, classic menswear aficionados have bypassed these in favour of vintage hiking boots. Defined by their full-grain leather construction, metal D-ring eyelets, thick grippy rubber lug soles, and durable construction, vintage hiking boots are being embraced for their timeless aesthetics, foot support, and ability to pair with classic outfit formulas.
When it comes to performance on the mountain, the hefty nature of vintage hiking boots means they often don’t compare to their lightweight, water-resistant contemporary synthetic counterparts. However, when it comes to street style cred, it’s vintage all the way, baby.
Like many utilitarian garments that get co-opted by the sartorially minded crowd (read: blue collar style), vintage hiking boots have been iterated by luxury fashion houses such as Dior, Hermès, and Prada. That said, these often lack the technical credentials to back up their outdoorsy aesthetic.
The best hiking boots for men are equally at home pounding the pavements of the concrete jungle as they are traversing rocky terrain. For hiking boots that unite substance with style, look to heritage brands like Diemme, Fracap, and Danner. Rooted in technicality, they go the distance without sacrificing form. Plus, the rise of technical style has seen many of these brands team up with contemporary fashion labels — of late, Diemme has collaborated with the likes of J. Crew, Throwing Fits, and Mr P. on stylish hiking boots that can be teamed with slim-cut corduroys and cargo pants alike, while Fracap has teamed up with independent British shoe brand Duke + Dexter on slick stompers that fuse the design codes of both brands.
Our guide to the best vintage hiking boots for men details exactly what to look for when buying vintage hiking boots, the best brands to shop, and how to style them.
Just want to know the best vintage hiking boots brands for men? Jump ahead here.
What are vintage hiking boots?
Vintage is a broad term, with anything over 20 years old technically falling into the category. However, when we refer to vintage hiking boots here, we’re talking about hiking boots from the 1960s to the early 1980s. These hiking boots prioritised leather construction and durable soles, with styles like the Vasque Sundowner, Danner Mountain Light, and Fabiano Rainier reigning supreme.
This time frame also saw the introduction of Norwegian welt construction, which utilises two rows of stitching to attach the upper, midsole, and outsole, and significantly improved the water resistance of hiking boots. These days, Goodyear welt construction is typically prioritised in quality vintage-style hiking boots; while it’s less water-resistant than Norwegian welt construction, Goodyear welted boots are easier to resole, thereby extending their lifespan.
What to look for when buying vintage hiking boots
As mentioned earlier, vintage hiking boots are distinguished by their leather construction and feature details like metal D-ring eyelets, lug soles, round toes, and colourful laces. Built to withstand the elements—and look good doing it—here are some key factors to consider when buying vintage hiking boots.
Materials
Vintage hiking boots are typically crafted from full-grain leather which offers durability and water resistant (in addition to unparalleled aesthetics). While they’re not as comfortable fresh out of the box as their synthetic counterparts, good quality leather boots will mould to your foot with regular wear and deliver a comfortable fit that only gets better as the years go by.
Some contemporary vintage-inspired hiking boots make use of full-grain suede. Suede has many of the same characteristics as leather, with the caveat that it’s not as water-resistant. That said, if you’re planning to solely wear your hiking boots in genteel settings (i.e. not hundreds of metres above sea level in inclement weather), suede hiking boots are a stylish and durable option.
Construction
When it comes to investing in boots that stand the test of time, construction is key. The crucial detail to look for is how the sole of the shoe is joined to the upper. Traditional vintage hiking boots often employed Norwegian welt construction for its superior water-resistant properties. However, given your hiking boots will be more exposed to the concrete jungle than mountains or marshes, we’d recommend looking for boots with Goodyear welt construction. This construction method means your boots can be resoled again and again (once the sole has worn out), allowing them to last a lifetime.
Sizing
Even the best boots will lay unused if the fit is off. While purveyors of modern hiking boots often recommend you size up for a good fit, vintage hiking boots tend to fit differently. Most vintage hiking boots are designed with a generous fit in order to accommodate thick woolen hiking socks (practical origins, remember!). Heritage brands like Danner, Viberg, Diemme, and La Montelliana will usually adhere to this sizing protocol, while newer brands that make vintage-inspired hiking boots will typically be more true to size. Always check the size guide before buying — and ideally (if feasible) visit a store in person to try on your boots prior to making a purchase.
How to wear vintage hiking boots for men
Despite their name, hiking boots needn’t be relegated to the great outdoors. What separates stylish vintage hiking boots from their contemporary technically driven counterparts is material; city slickers should opt for premium materials like leather and brushed suede over textiles like Gore-Tex and mesh. Silhouette is also key here; opt for clean silhouettes that look more akin to Chelsea boots than sneakers and avoid those laden with an abundance of mesh or suede overlays. While brands like Merrell and Salomon make a good technical hiking boot, these styles are best avoided if you’re looking to wear your hiking boots in non-hiking settings.
Whether you’re an office trekker or a weekend wanderer, we’ve got you covered on how to wear hiking boots for any occasion.
Casual
When the cold weather hits, vintage hiking boots make the perfect footwear accompaniment to layered looks. Stay warm by teaming chinos or jeans with a chunky roll neck sweater and a gilet or chore jacket. Hiking boots in chestnut brown or black leather or tan suede finish off the look well.
Smart casual
For an outfit that’s well put together yet retains casual appeal, team brown or black leather or suede hiking boots with slim-cut jeans in a dark shade like black or indigo with knitwear and a structured coat, or opt for slim-cut neutral coloured trousers with a shirt or simple crewneck sweater and a blazer.
Business casual
In laid-back offices where oxford or derby shoes feel a bit too strait-laced, hiking boots are a perfect footwear choice. Leather boots teamed with thick wool trousers or suiting separates and a collared shirt strike the ideal balance between business and casual. Just ensure you keep your boots in good nick with regular polishing to avoid coming across as scruffy.
The best vintage men’s hiking boot brands
To help keep you stylish on and off the trails, these are the best brands making vintage hiking boots for men. We’ve included both true heritage brands as well as a few newer brands which do vintage-style stompers well. To make it easier for you to choose the right vintage hiking boots for your tastes and lifestyle, we’ve also specified whether we’d actually go hiking in them or if they’re solely restricted to urban exploration.
1. Fracap
Founded in 1908 by Antonio Cappello, Italian label Fracap’s footwear has been produced by the same bloodline for over a century. Fracap boots are made with vegetable-tanned leather at the family’s factory in Puglia, Italy. Instantly recognisable by its iconic red laces, Fracap boots utilise traditional bootmaking techniques, while experimenting with contemporary elements.
Established in: 1908
Founder: Antonio Cappello
Headquarters: Italy
Materials: full-grain leather, Vibram soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? Yes!
2. Grenson
One of the most widely respected shoe and bootmakers around the world and in the UK, British label Grenson was founded in Northampton by William Green in 1866. While the luxury footwear label specialises in more classic styles like oxford shoes, loafers, and derby boots, they also have a range of premium hiking boots in clean silhouettes, perfect for smart casual wear. In addition to their traditional leather offerings, Grenson also has a small selection of dedicated vegan footwear offerings.
Established in: 1866
Founder: William Green
Headquarters: Northampton, England
Materials: full-grain leather, suede, rubber soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? Maybe a weekend stroll, but we’d steer clear of mountainous terrain.
3. Moncler
Luxury Italian fashion house Moncler excels in creating aesthetically pleasing technical gear well-suited for the great outdoors, making it a natural choice for hiking boots. Seamlessly merging fashion with tactical construction, Moncler’s hiking boots are at home on the mountains and down at the pub. Think premium materials, meticulous Italian construction, and references to Moncler’s signature tricolour branding.
Established in: 1952
Founder: René Ramillon
Headquarters: Milan, Italy
Materials: leather, nylon, Gore-Tex, shearling
Would you actually take a hike in these? Yes, catch us traipsing up a snow-capped mountain in these.
4. La Montelliana
Established in 1965 in Montebelluna, Italy, La Montelliana creates fine footwear using traditional shoemaking techniques. Though they’re made with hiking in mind, La Montelliana boots often play host to a touch of whimsy, whether it’s a leopard-print upper or shearling ankle detailing.
Established in: 1965
Founder: Italian artisans (family-owned)
Headquarters: Treviso, Italy
Materials: suede, shearling, Vibram sole
Would you actually take a hike in these? Depends which style. The leopard-print ones are staying firmly grounded.
5. Danner
Since their inception in 1932, Danner shoes have been worn by the military, the police force, polar explorers, and outdoorsmen alike, gaining them a reputation as some of the finest footwear in the world. Founded in Portland, Oregon by American Charles Danner, Danner boots remain designed and made on US soil. Classic in their design, Danner boots are made with purpose in mind, however, they look pretty darn good too.
Established in: 1932
Founder: Charles Danner
Headquarters: Portland, Oregon, United States
Materials: full-grain leather, Gore-Tex, Vibram soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? Yes, catch us flexing on all the North Face basiques next hike.
6. Diemme
Founded and family-owned since 1992, Italian footwear label Diemme has been producing high-end footwear for the likes of Chanel, Bottega Venetta, and Maison Margiela. Each pair of boots is handcrafted, with Diemme utilising traditional shoemaking techniques to create unique, contemporary styles; think leopard prints, fur detailing, and coloured panels. Of late, Diemme has collaborated with brands like Mr P. and J. Crew (pictured above) on hiking boots that exude rugged style.
Established in: 1992
Founders: Dennis and Maico Signor
Headquarters: Veneto, Italy
Materials: suede, leather, rubber, Vibram soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? It’d be rude not to.
7. Viberg
The eponymous label was founded in Saskatchewan, Canada in 1931 by Edward Viberg, who learnt the craft of shoemaking from a British immigrant. Viberg utilises traditional bootmaking methods, with Goodyear welt (allowing for resoling), Stitchdown, Naildown, Goodyearwelt, Cemented and Side Wall Stitched footwear. With leather and suede variations, Viberg boots have a clean silhouette with a distinctly masculine feel, making them ideal for casual wear.
Established in: 1931
Founder: Edwin Viberg
Headquarters: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Materials: full-grain leather, chromexcel leather, Dainite soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? We’re already out there. Lace up your boots.
8. Oliver Sweeny
British designer Oliver Sweeney founded his eponymous label in 1989, after two decades of learning his craft from some of the best shoemakers in the business. Produced in an Italian factory, Oliver Sweeney boots combine traditional shoemaking with 21st century technology and innovation. Sweeney’s designs are traditional in nature, infusing details of yesteryear like vintage-effect leathers and calfskin linings.
Established in: 1989
Founder: Oliver Sweeney
Headquarters: London, England
Materials: full-grain leather, calfskin, rubber soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? Hmm. Probably just a lunchtime hike through the concrete jungle.
9. Thesus Outdoors
When it comes to vintage hiking boots, leather is king. However, that often precludes those who take a more animal-friendly approach to their wardrobes from partaking in the trend. One of the newer brands on this list, Thesus Outdoors creates hiking boots from sustainable materials such as nylon made from repurposed marine plastic and recycled rubber (the brand is also refreshingly transparent about its materials, with a full breakdown of every style).
While Thesus Outdoor hiking boots aren’t strictly vintage (nor are they trying to be), they pair throwback details like metal D-ring eyelets, ankle padding, colourful laces, and chunky soles with forward-thinking materials and funky colours, resulting in a fresh interpretation of vintage-inspired hiking boots. Balancing playful colour-blocking and a durable rubber lug sole with a clean silhouette, they’re apt to add interest to otherwise neutral casual outfits. While their core style, the Weekend Boot, is available in a plethora of vibrant colourways, there are also a few neutral options that work well with casual and smart casual ‘fits.
Established in: 2014
Founders: Sofi Khwaja-Horekens and Nicholas Horekens
Headquarters: Toronto, Canada
Materials: recycled nylon, recycled plastic, recycled polyurethane, water-based vegan glue, natural rubber
Would you actually take a hike in these? That’s literally what they’re for!
10. Filling Pieces
Founded in 2009 by Guillaume Philibert, Filling Pieces is perhaps best known for its sneakers. However, the brand’s boot offering is not to be overlooked, with its hiking boots sitting in the space between streetwear and high fashion, while boasting impressive heavy-duty construction. Combining nylon with nubuck, nappa, and ruberised leather, the Filling Pieces Mountain Boot features striking contrast leather details yet is elevated enough to pair with relaxed suiting or separates.
Established in: 2009
Founder: Guillaume Philibert
Headquarters: Amsterdam, Netherlands
Materials: leather, suede, recycled rubber
Would you actually take a hike in these? We’re just using these to trample across your instagram feed.
11. Velasca
One of our favourite Italian menswear brands, Velasca hiking boots represent a design-led take on vintage styles. The brand’s boots see tumbled leather or suede paired with Vibram lug or mountain soles, with each pair of boots exuding retro style while delivering rugged durability and a comfortable fit. Our favourite styles are the Barinàtt, which pairs leather with canvas, and the Stagnaa, a suede style (treated so its water-repellent) that directly recalls the vintage hiking boots of yesteryear.
Established in: 2013
Founders: Enrico Casati and Jacopo Sebastio
Headquarters: Milan, Italy
Materials: calf leather, suede, Vibram rubber soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? More for rugged nature getaways than actual mountaineering, but yes.
12. Morjas
Informed by its founder’s Spanish and Swedish heritage, nascent men’s footwear brand Morjas combines Scandinavian minimalism with traditional Spanish craftsmanship. While Morjas is best known for its reasonably priced dress shoes, the brand’s vintage-inspired hiking boots are well worth a look in. Blending vintage and modern design codes, the brand’s aptly named The Hiking Boot utilises a more streamlined silhouette than traditional vintage hiking boots, but retains all the beloved aesthetic hallmarks — think D-ring metal eyelets, padded ankle collar, fold-over tongue, and a lug sole. Morjas hiking boots lend a touch of rugged style to polished outfits without being incongruous, while being durable enough for off-duty weekend exploration.
Established in: 2017
Founder: Henrik Berg
Headquarters: Stockholm, Sweden
Materials: Full-grain leather, suede, lug soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? Save them for urban exploration.
13. Hanwag
For true old school vintage hiking boots that look good paired with pleated trousers and hold up while you’re scaling a mountain, Hanwag is a solid bet. The Bavarian hiking and mountain boot label has been specialising in outdoor footwear for over a century and offers both modern and vintage hiking boots. For the latter, look to Hanwag’s Doublestitched line, with styles like the Grünten, Kranzegg, and Bergler pairing a double-stitched leather upper with Vibram soles and featuring aesthetic signatures like a comfortable padded ankle cuff, metal eyelets, and contrast laces.
Established in: 1921
Founder: Hans Wagner
Headquarters: Bavaria, Germany
Materials: full-grain leather, Gore-Tex, Vibram soles
Would you actually take a hike in these? They’ve hiked through Bavaria, so yes.
14. Paraboot
When it comes to heritage brands that have managed to evolve and adapt to modern tastes without losing sight of its roots, Paraboot is one of the best. The French footwear brand has been around since 1908 and began by creating durable yet stylish footwear inspired by American work boots for European blue collar workers and mountaineers. As such, Paraboot designs have always had aesthetic appeal; the brand’s Avoriaz hiking boots are rendered in either leather or suede and inspired by styles from the 1960s to ‘80s (i.e. the golden age of vintage hiking boots!). Today, they’re designed with (comfortable) urban exploration in mind and ideally suited to pairing with suits or smart casual ‘fits. Paraboot (and Morjas above) also has a couple of derby-inspired takes on vintage hiking boots, fusing the design codes of both shoes to create a unique style that toughens up everyday outfits.
Established in: 1908
Founder: Rémy Richard-Pontvert
Headquarters: Saint-Jean-de-Moirans, France
Materials: full-grain leather, rubber, Norwegian welt
Would you actually take a hike in these? They’ll probably hold up, but they’re too slick to chance it.
FAQ
Some of the brands for vintage hiking boots are Grenson, Viberg, Moncler, Fracap, Paraboot, and Danner.
The best designer hiking boots are made by Moncler, Diemme, and La Montelliana.
Hiking boots in clean silhouettes can be worn for casual, business casual, and smart casual outfits. Team them with slim-cut chinos or jeans, or opt for suiting separates or dress pants and structured outerwear for an office-appropriate look.
Enjoyed this guide to vintage hiking boots for men? Check out our other men’s style guides here.
Words by Theo Rosen
Feature image courtesy of La Montelliana
