Retro sneakers have been having a moment. In Sneakerland, it was inarguably the year of the Adidas Samba, with celebrity sightings and unending influencer endorsements coupled with a slew of hyped collaborations (Gucci, Khaite, Jonah Hill, Sporty & Rich, and Wales Bonner, to name but a few) and limited availability propelling the style to grail status and bolstering its value on the secondary market. Fellow Adidas stablemate the Gazelle, as well as New Balance 574s and 990v5s (but really, literally anything from New Balance) and Nike Waffle Trainers have also enjoyed a share of the spotlight, while Puma brought its 1980s Palermo style back from the archives to nab a slice of the market.
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Suffice to say, what’s old is new (again). And while there’s nothing wrong with wearing the sneaker of the moment, well, everyone else is wearing them too. That said, the retro sneaker aesthetic isn’t solely fare of Big SneakerTM players, with several independent and underrated sneaker brands making innovative, design-led retro-inspired sneakers.
While these sneakers don’t necessarily have the storied histories of their Big SneakerTM counterparts, they’re more than able to hold their own aesthetically against well-known styles. In fact, we’d wager that the best retro-inspired sneakers on the market are from a brand you don’t even know about. Yet.
What are retro sneakers?
Retro (i.e. retrospective) sneakers technically refer to previously released (or archival) models that have been updated and reissued, with examples including the Adidas Samba, Puma Palermo, Puma Suede, New Balance 574, Nike Dunk Low, Nike Blazer, and Vans Old Skool.
Here, we’re focusing on retro-inspired sneakers. Made by newer labels, what they lack in history and heritage is made up for in aesthetics. Drawing from vintage styles, they feature characteristics such as colour-blocked details, leather and suede overlays, overly chunky or satisfyingly streamlined silhouettes, and rubber gum outsoles which imbue them with a healthy dose of nostalgia.
The best vintage- and retro-inspired sneakers to buy in 2023
Ready to look beyond swooshes and three stripes? These are the best retro-inspired sneakers from underrated brands.
1. Flower Mountain Yamano 3 Uni
Encompassing pretty much every quintessential retro sneaker detail, the Flower Mountain Yamano 3 Uni represents a glamorous and decidedly unserious take on a sport sneaker. Executed in breathable technical fabric, the uppers feature vibrant suede overlays and lace-up trekking closures with eyelets in the Japan-based brand’s signature flower shape. The uppers feature perforated flower details while the toebox and heel counter are adorned with animalier pony print. Like all of the brand’s designs, the Yamano 3 Uni is fitted with a lightweight grippy rubber sole suited to trekking, should you wish to take a break from flexing them in the concrete jungle.
2. Greats The Royale 2.0
Founded in 2014, Brooklyn-based brand Greats has swiftly managed to carve out a name for itself thanks to its nostalgic aesthetic and elevated design language. A veritable emblem of cool, The Royale 2.0 is sophisticated yet understated. The low profile silhouette features a two-tone suede or leather upper with the brand’s signature tack stitch detailing, while subtle gold foil branding appears on the heel.
3. Arkk Copenhagen Duratek-L Nylon TX-22
These low-cut hiking sneakers represent an environmentally conscious take on the retro-inspired sneaker trend. Crafted from nylon, they’re vegan-friendly and feature colour-blocked details. They utilise the brand’s Trail-X22 sole unit, giving them the cushioning and durability of a hiking boot with the aesthetic of a sneaker. The key to pulling off sneakers like this is utilising unexpected styling cues; pair them with tailored trousers or shorts and a blazer in muted neutrals to juxtapose the vibrant colours and technical silhouettes.
4. Dizygotic Project Alpha
A truly underrated brand with a unique design aesthetic. Each pair of Dizygotic Project Alpha sneakers are fraternal rather than identical twins. They feature deliberately mismatched colour-blocking and laces, with an asymmetrical design on the lateral quarters. Each Project Alpha colourway is designed in collaboration with an artist and pays homage to pop culture. Pictured is the ‘Peach Boy’ Makoto edition, which nods to the Japanese folklore story of the same name and features embroidery and graphic insoles by Japanese tattoo artist Makoto Horimatsu. Each pair of Dizygotic Project Alpha sneakers is handmade and limited edition — if you want a real pair of statement sneakers, let it be these.
5. Eytys Santos
Simultaneously able to stand out while blending in, the Eytys Santos is a low-cut sneaker constructed from nappa leather with serrated suede overlays and satin embroidery. Its oversized rubber gum sole is a hallmark of retro-inspired style, while the soft blue shade allows it to be worn with streetwear and smart-casual ‘fits alike. Think of these as a viable substitute for Adidas Sambas and Gazelles.
6. Flamingos Life Retro 86s
Spanish plant-based sneaker brand Flamingos Life has been creating retro-inspired vegan-friendly sneakers since 2015. Crafted from recycled corn and recycled polyester, the eco-conscious Retro 86s are timeless yet nostalgic, with their minimalist silhouette and restrained use of colour making them equally at home with slim-cut suiting as they are with denim and a chore coat.
7. Ekn Liana
Same same but different. Simultaneously familiar and futuristic, the Ekn Liana is a retrofuturistic sneaker that combines materials and textures to striking effect. An oversized elastic band influences the architecture of the sneaker, while the nylon upper features recycled vegan leather overlays and the tongue is adorned with a debossed pattern. A chunky Vibram sole allows for all-day comfort while contributing to the nostalgic tone.
8. Filling Pieces Sprinter Dice
A sleek low-cut silhouette coupled with colour-blocked details makes these sneakers both versatile and statement-making. Use them to anchor a neutral ‘fit; whether it’s tailoring in a hue of beige or cream, straight-cut denim, or even a tenniscore-inspired look.
9. Ecoalf Cervino Trainers
Crafted from recycled materials, the Ecoalf Cervino Trainers take a tonal approach to colour-blocking, with a slew of cohesive colour palettes that range from muted neutrals to vibrant shades. For streetwear outfits, look to the Emerald or Taupe colourways, while smart casual looks are best paired with the Grey, Sand, or Nut styles.
10. KangaROOS Exo II Ultimate Y2K
Despite their name, KangaROOS sneakers hail from America. Founded by architect and avid runner Robert Gamm in 1979, they were the first (and probably still the only) sneakers to contain pockets. Since 1981, German company Bernd Hummel GmbH is the largest licensee of the sneaker company, allowing them to design and manufacture independent collections designed specifically for the European market. Known as KangaROOS ‘Made in Germany’, they boast superior craftsmanship and thoughtful design. The KangaROOS Exo II Ultimate Y2K is the only true retro sneaker on this list — inspired by the running shoe design of the same name from 1997, it features mesh uppers complemented by leather and suede overlays, with a colourful midsole adding interest to the design. A thick rubber outsole ensures comfort and cushioning while contributing to the retro aesthetic. To get authentic KangaROOS ‘Made in Germany’ sneakers, the brand’s German-based webstore is your best bet; Google Translate is your friend here.
11. Axel Arigato Area Lo Sneaker
Swedish brand Axel Arigato balances Scandinavian minimalism with Japanese design philosophy and attention to detail. The Axel Arigato Area Lo Sneaker looks to vintage basketball styles for inspiration, with its white mid-top silhouette accented with colourful overlays. Gold branding appears on the collar as well as embossed on the geometric rubber outsole, with a hint of colour on the sole visually tying the sneaker together. A distinctly elevated take on the archetypal basketball sneaker.
12. Sneep Crew Pro Zool Sintergic
Sinuous shapes and wavy lines characterise the Sneep Crew Pro Zool sneakers. Suede and leather in shades of pink, beige, cream, and navy swathe the sneakers to create a distinctly nostalgic effect, while the geometric embroidery and distorted name on the heel counter add a retrofuturistic touch.
13. Mercer Amsterdam The Re-Run Pineapple
Exuding Ivy League collegiate appeal, the Mercer Amsterdam The Re-Run Pineapple looks to vintage sports teams across basketball and football for inspiration. Boating a decidedly luxurious feel, they see recycled mesh uppers adorned with vegan pineapple leather overlays and feature a tonal rubber sole. Mercer branding appears in gold on the quarter, while the use of a statement gold eyelet contributes to the elevated aesthetic.
14. Veja Dekkan Alveomesh
You probably have heard of Veja, but the sustainably minded French footwear brand is worth a mention nonetheless. Designed with outdoor adventures in mind, the Veja Dekkan Alveomesh combines technical prowess with retro style. A Vibram outsole offers foot support and protection while the waterproof upper features lightweight polyurethane and rubber panels. The brand’s signature ‘V’ branding appears on the lateral sides.
Words by Theo Rosen
