With the ability to traverse from suburban barbeques to inner-city model casting calls with ease, the grey-on-grey aesthetic of the New Balance 990 is an apt choice for anchoring street style fits. However, its intended purpose was more suited to pounding the pavement than strutting down it.
Prior to the release of the New Balance 990, flexibility and support were considered mutually exclusive qualities in a running shoe. A flexible midsole enhances proprioceptive feedback, providing runners with a better sense of movement and location; while support was achieved through the use of a carbon plate topped with soft foam cushioning, resulting in a stiffer shoe that put more distance between you and the ground.
Thanks to four years of research and development, the New Balance 990 was able to unite both properties. A slip-lasted upper provided flexibility and responsiveness while a polyurethane heel-cradle (termed the ‘Motion Control Device’) ensured foot support. The popularity of the latter feature makes it a mainstay in New Balance’s current performance runner lineup.
Synthesising aesthetics with performance, the New Balance 990 was first released in 1982 and quickly became known for both its unique design and price point in equal measure — at $100USD, it was the most expensive running shoe on the market at the time. Its comparatively high price point can largely be attributed to New Balance’s commitment to domestic manufacturing, with the 990 exclusively assembled in the US.
Having been in production for over four decades, and undergone countless iterations (it’s currently in its sixth generation — ‘990 v6’ in New Balance speak), it’s safe to say the style has stood the test of time. Easily distinguished by its monochromatic grey tones and mesh upper with suede overlays, the New Balance 990 has long transcended its performance-oriented origins as a running shoe. Flitting between genders and cultural subtypes, it’s now seen on everyone from Kaia Gerber and the late Steve Jobs to middle-aged midwestern fathers.
“The New Balance 990 can be widely credited as one of the silhouettes that inspired the ‘dad shoe’ trend that has taken over the past couple of years,” notes Tom Woodger, VP of Global Cultural Marketing at StockX. Woodger notes that the resurgence of throwback style also plays a role in the 990’s enduring popularity.
“Additionally, more and more consumers are favoring comfort, which a chunky silhouette like the 990 can offer. Combine this with the 1990s and 2000s aesthetic that has made a comeback, and the 990 is the perfect storm.”
Chunky without bordering on absurdity, its wearable proportions and neutral tones allow the New Balance 990 to be teamed with casual and smart casual outfits alike. In addition to Steve Jobs’ preferred outfit formula of jeans and a black turtleneck, the style also works well with slim-cut suiting in shades of charcoal or black, as well as providing the ideal foil to slip and summer dresses. Naturally, it’s also an easy choice for athleisure ‘fits.
In recent time, the New Balance 990’s ‘Supermodels in London’ credentials have extended to influencers and content creators, particularly in the health and wellness space. Its comfortable nature and trendy aesthetic have led the 990 to be co-opted by the ‘that girl’ and ‘beigefluencer’ aesthetic subgroups; typically paired with grey tracksuits or black leggings and white socks.
Unlike many overhyped sneakers, the standard New Balance 990s are still easy to acquire. However, limited-edition collaborations with the likes of Salehe Bembury, Kith, and Aimé Leon Dore have aided in bolstering the often underrated style’s cred.
“New Balance 990 collaborations seem to stand the test of time, with early collaborations increasing in value,” says Woodger. “The first New Balance x Aimé Leon Dore sneaker collaboration in 2019 (which included two New Balance 990 sneakers and two New Balance 997s) had an average appreciation rate of 180% over the last two years, proving first-ever sneaker collaborations can remain popular for years to come and see bigger gains down the road.”
Recent years have also seen the American sneaker brand release the iconic design in different colourways, including the green and tan 990v3; white, purple, and pink 990v6; and navy and white 990v6. However, for a true classic: stick to the grey-on-grey.
Available in six versions, including a vegan iteration, the New Balance 990 is available via the brand’s webstore.
Words by T. Angel
