Humanity has always looked to the sky for guidance, with ancient civilizations observing the heavenly bodies as the earliest form of timekeeping. Although the sun — kept track of using shadow clocks and dials — was used to determine the passing of days, the lunar cycle was instrumental in monitoring the passing of months. And while the waxing and waning of the lunar cycle is no longer necessary to keep track of lost time, the lure of the moon hasn’t ahem, waned.
There’s a certain romantic fascination associated with the moon, one which horologically translates into the rather poetic moonphase watch. While keeping track of the phases of the moon is unlikely to be relevant to your day-to-day life — unless you’re an astronomical photographer, werewolf, or practicing pagan — a moonphase watch is both a beautiful and impressive mechanical innovation as well as a nod to the inextricable link between the lunar cycle and the history of timekeeping. Plus, it’s just cool.
What is a moonphase watch?
A full lunar cycle is 29.5 days, going from new moon to full moon and back again. A moonphase watch is one with an aperture on the dial that relays the lunar cycle by displaying the current state of the moon in miniature — known as a moonphase complication. The moonphase is one of the more fanciful horological complications available today, taking a more abstract and artistic approach to time-telling. Naturally, watchmakers and manufactures each have their own interpretation of the moonphase watch, often employing unique and innovative takes on the complication.
How does a moonphase watch work?
Moonphase watches can be either automatic or quartz, however the former is more common. A moonphase complication works to show the phase of the moon, which is the moon’s illuminated area; namely, the section of the moon visible from earth. Beneath the dial of a moonphase watch sits a disc decorated with two identical moons, with the disc partially visible through the curved aperture on the dial (most commonly located at 6 o’clock). The disc rotates one complete cycle every 29.5 days; beginning with a minute sliver and gradually enlarging (waxing) until a full moon is revealed. As the disc continues to rotate, the dial hides a portion of the moon as it becomes a waning crescent moon before disappearing altogether to represent a new moon. Then, the second moon appears on the other side as a waxing crescent moon and the process begins again. The disc underneath the dial has 59 teeth (two times the 29.5 day lunar cycle) and advances by one tooth each day (or every 24 hours). Hence, one full rotation of the disc encompasses two lunar cycles.
How accurate is a moonphase watch?
Erudite astronomists will be quick to point out that the lunar cycle isn’t exactly 29.5 days. It’s actually 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 3 seconds. While this 15 minute and 57 second discrepancy may not seem like much in the grand scheme of things, it means that the standard 59-tooth moonphase complication is off by a full day once every two years and seven-and-a-half months. At this time, the moonphase will have to be manually adjusted.
To account for this, astronomical moonphase complications use a 135-tooth gear to improve accuracy. This improves the accuracy to the point that an astronomical moonphase watch will only require a correction once every 122 years; so, something for the next generation to take care of.
As is standard with all automatic watches, moonphase watches will only remain accurate (whether for almost three years or for 122 years) if they’re kept wound and run uninterrupted. If a moonphase watch loses power and stops beating, the moonphase will need to be reset. For this reason, a long power reserve is a useful feature when considering the best moonphase watches as many can be difficult to manually reset.
Types of moonphase watches
As mentioned above, standard moonphase watches need to be adjusted around once every three years, while astronomical moonphase watches are accurate for 122 years. There are also perpetual moonphase watches like the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon and A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna which are accurate for over 1000 years (if kept wound).
When it comes to moonphase displays, there are two main types. Bosom moonphase watches are the most popular and depict the phase of the moon graphically through an aperture in the dial. Less common are radial moonphase displays which use a hand to point to the current phase of the moon. In radial displays, the indicator hand is what moves, rather than the image of the moon.
The best moonphase watches in 2024
Captivated by the luminous allure of the moon? These are the best moonphase watches to carry a piece of la luna with you wherever you go.
1. Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Celestial
A fittingly whimsical take on the romantic complication, the Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Celestial sees an aventurine dial play host to a large-scale moonphase aperture which takes up the upper half of the dial. The moonphase display is also backed by aventurine while the moon itself is crafted from mother-of-pearl and is accompanied by shimmering stars and planets. Diamond hour markers continue the striking astronomical effect while a rose gold case (complete with a diamond bezel) and leaf-shaped hands add a touch of warmth to the cool hues of the dial.
Price: $36,800USD (approx. $54,148AUD)
Model: Cat’s Eye Celestial
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Power Reserve: 46 hours
Case Size: 35.40mm x 30.40 mm
Related: A Guide To The Different Watch Case Shapes
2. Arnold & Son Luna Magna
Arnold & Son is no stranger to the heavens above, with its Perpetual Moon timepieces standing out for their astronomical moonphase complications and large-scale dial displays. However, the Arnold & Son Luna Magna takes a unique approach to the moonphase watch, with the phase of the moon conveyed via a three-dimensional orb on the dial. Crafted from grey marble and aventurine, it’s controlled by an exclusive manually wound in-house movement (accurate for 122 years and boasting a 90-hour power reserve) and is also visible through the exhibition caseback which also features a second, more precise display indicating the current phase of the moon. The dial itself is composed on aventurine which is reminiscent of the starry night sky, with the hour and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock set in mother-of-pearl. To accommodate the spherical moon within, the Arnold & Son Luna Magna is topped with a domed sapphire crystal, evoking a planetarium feel.
Price: CHF $55,900CHF (approx. $95,970AUD)
Model: Luna Magna
Movement: manual winding
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Power Reserve: 90 hours
Case Size: 44mm
3. H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon
H. Moser & Cie. always does things a little differently. The deceptively simple dial utilises aventurine which resembles the limitless starry night sky, with the mineral glass unobscured by indices and branding. The dial is left blank save for its elegant leaf-shaped hour and minute hands and a seconds hand, as well as the circular moonphase aperture at 6 o’clock. Inside, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon is powered by one of the most precise movements, with the in-house manually wound HMC 801 calibre able to accurately display the lunar calendar for 1027 years. Fortunately, the movement’s seven-day power reserve makes it a tad easier to keep it running for a millennium. See you in 3050.
Price: $39,900CHF (approx. $68,505AUD)
Model: Endeavour Perpetual Moon
Movement: manual winding
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Power Reserve: 168 hours (seven days)
Case Size: 42mm
4. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon
Swiss manufacture Jaquet Droz elevates its signature figure-eight dial with an astronomical moonphase complication. The smaller hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock remains unchanged save for replacing the usual Arabic or Roman numerals with chunky stick indices, while the namesake larger seconds subdial at 6 o’clock plays host to a moonphase display and date indicator as well as the standard sweeping seconds. Utlising an atypical colour palette, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon sees a matte black dial adorned with a cratered rose gold moon to create a decidedly contemporary take on the classic complication.
Price: $36,788AUD
Model: Grande Seconde Moon
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: N/A
Power Reserve: 68 hours
Case Size: 41mm
5. Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase
With the moon holding court over the rise and fall of the tides, it’s no wonder that a manufacture with a strong maritime heritage would have a moonphase watch in its stable. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase pays homage to its history of supplying chronometers to the navy as well as the influence of the moon over the seas. A 42mm stainless steel case sees an aventurine dial (though it’s also available in white or sunray blue for a more understated look) play host to a moonphase and small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Smooth sailing is ensured by the automatic in-house UN-119 which has a 60-hour power reserve.
Price: $21,300AUD
Model: Marine Torpilleur Moonphase
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 5ATM
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Case Size: 42mm
6. Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT
A moonphase watch seems decidedly unPanerai, however the Italian manufacture has managed to execute it in a way that’s congruous to its distinct style. Now, you might be wondering where exactly the moonphase is? Flip it over the 50mm titanium timepiece and you’ll find it on the back of the dial, visible through the exhibition caseback. Front-of-house, a whole host of complications feature on the dial; in addition to a secondary time zone and date aperture, there’s also a complication that shows sunrise and sunset at home, the month, and a tourbillon thrown in for good measure. A moonphase watch for the not-so-romantic horologist.
Price: $230,000USD (approx. $338,882AUD)
Model: L’Astronomo Luminor Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT
Movement: manual winding
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Power Reserve: 96 hours (4 days)
Case Size: 50mm
Related: No Bones About It; These Are The Best Skeletonised Watches In 2024
7. Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune
The moonphase typically plays a supporting role on the dial, often restricted to a diminutive aperture. Here, the Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune thinks out of the subdial and lets the moonphase take centre stage. Eschewing the traditional rotating lunar disc format, the timepiece seed two stationary mother-of-pearl moons represent the phase of the moon in the northern and southern hemispheres, with two spinning subdials (one for the time and the other for the date) atop it. The dial itself also takes on an astronomic tone; in addition to standard fare like aventurine, lapis lazuli, and blue pearl, the timepiece has also been executed using real meteorites. Otherworldly, indeed.
Price: from €31,950 (approx. $51,820AUD)
Model: Arceau L’Heure de la Lune
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Case Size: 43mm
8. A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna
It’s business on the front and party on the back with the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna. A quintessentially A. Lange & Söhne take on a moonphase watch, the dial houses a perpetual calendar which is presented in a sober fashion that draws inspiration from the regulator design of high-precision scientific clocks. The time is displayed by way of three concentric circles, one each for the hours, minutes, and seconds. Flip it over and you’ll find a large-scale moonphase display which showcases not only the lunar cycle, but the position of the moon in relation to earth; powered by an in-house hand-wound movement, it’s accurate for 1058 years. With a massive 14 day power reserve, there’s a good chance of keeping it wound for generations to come.
Price: $POA (approx. > $300,000AUD)
Model: Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna
Movement: manually wound
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Power Reserve: 336 hours (14 days)
Case Size: 45.5mm
9. Farer Burbridge
While we’ve highlighted some stunning luxury moonphase watches thus far, a love of la luna isn’t the sole domain of high-end manufactures. Here, British microbrand Farer offers a unique take on the moonphase, eschewing the usual colour palette of deep blues and whites in favour of an arctic blue sunburst dial with a baby pink moon (which is an actual shade the moon can appear). Polished stick indices and lace hands are treated to a luminescent coating, as is the moonphase, allowing them to be seen in the dark (or under moonlight). Housed in a 38.5mm stainless steel cushion case, it posits the moonphase watch as an ideal daily driver. The Farer Burbridge is powered by a hand-wound Swiss Sellita SW288-1 calibre, which is visible through the caseback and has a power reserve of 45 hours.
Price: £1495 (approx. $2800AUD)
Model: Burbridge
Movement: manually wound
Water Resistance: 5ATM
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Case Size: 38.5mm
Related: The Best British Watch Brands Are Doing Things Differently
10. Chopard Happy Moon
Jewellery and horology meet on the dial in this poetic take on the moonphase. The Chopard Happy Moon sees an aventurine dial play host to a spangling of rose gold constellations, while a dainty aperture at 12 o’clock shows the phase of the moon. A diamond-studded bezel adorns the 36mm rose gold case, while the Swiss manufacture’s signature happy diamonds dance atop the dial.
Price: approx. $78,800AUD
Model: Happy Moon
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Case Size: 36mm
11. Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase
The Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is an astronomical moonphase watch that punches well above its weight. A gripe with Christopher Ward’s previous moonphase watches has been the somewhat incongruous logo plastered on the dial. The Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase avoids this by going logoless (and also stripping the dial of hour indices and markers), letting the uninterrupted beauty of the aventurine dial hold court. The upper half of the dial houses a generously sized moonphase aperture — also backed by aventurine — with the moon made from Globolight, a ceramic and Super-LumiNova mix that can be carved into any shape and glows white in the dark. It’s powered by the in-house JJ04 calibre, an automatic movement that is accurate for 128 years.
Price: $3275
Model: C1 Moonphase
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Case Size: 40.5mm
12. MeisterSinger Lunascope
MeisterSinger translates its idiosyncratic single-hand design into the lunar realm. The German manufacture’s Lunascope sees a deep blue sunburst dial play host to a large moonphase aperture which showcases a golden moon atop a starry sky. The timepiece uses an automatic Swiss ETA 2838 calibre, which has a power reserve of 38 hours and is accurate for 128 years.
Price: $6800AUD
Model: Lunascope
Movement: automatic
Water Resistance: 5ATM
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Case Size: 40mm
FAQ
Why do people stare at the moon? It’s not because it’s necessary. Since time immemorial, humankind has had a fascination with the heavens above for inspiration and guidance in equal measure. A moonphase watch is an aesthetically pleasing ode to that fascination as well as the history of timekeeping itself. Plus, they’re simply cool to look at.
Moonphase watches needn’t be expensive. Affordable moonphase watches include the Tissot Carson Premium Gent Moonphase, Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase, Farer Burbridge, and Longines Master Collection Moonphase.
Enjoyed this article? Why not check out our Ultimate Guide To Watches here; covering everything from the anatomy of a watch to watch styles and complications.
Words by Theo Rosen
