The old money aesthetic has dominated the collective consciousness of the style cognoscenti of late, with influencers, celebrities, and brands alike rather loudly touting the best recipe for ‘quiet luxury’. The trend towards quiet luxury proved a sartorial sigh of relief from the endless logomania that defined the previous decade, however ostentation isn’t limited to our wardrobes; it’s also present on our wrists. While there’s no shame in wearing a watch that appeals to — and is recognised by — the masses, sometimes there’s a certain charm in selecting the timepiece that hides in plain sight.
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So, what defines a quiet luxury watch? Well for starters, it doesn’t bear the initials AP, have a two-tone ceramic bezel, boast about its underwater prowess, and definitely isn’t named after a submarine. Some of the quiet luxury watches on this list are recognisable, and others go completely under the radar. All of them exude a sense of understated refinement and elegance, and are best paired with a Brunello Cucinelli half-zip.
Without further ado, these are the 8 best quiet luxury watches.
1. Rolex Perpetual 1908
Rolexes tend to be anthetical to quiet luxury. The timepieces the Swiss manufacture is best known for tend to scream “I’m a Rolex!!!”, and, given the historically long wait times to acquire one, most owners want them to do just that. However, the Perpetual 1908 deviates from this aesthetic. Replacing the Cellini line, it unites traditional watchmaking with Rolex’s heritage aesthetic codes, with a minimalist dial featuring a combination of Arabic numerals and faceted hour markers and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The 39mm case takes on vintage proportions and is available in white or yellow gold — the former is the ultimate quiet luxury choice.
Model: Perpetual 1908
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 5ATM
Case Diameter: 39mm
2. Cartier Tank Must
Now, quiet luxury needn’t necessarily be the most expensive option. Sometimes, true luxury lies in the best overall value proposition. Descended from the original Cartier Tank, created by Louis Cartier in 1917, the Tank Must distils the aesthetic codes of its predecessor into a strikingly essentialist timepiece. Devoid of a seconds hand and indices, it’s a timepiece for those who aren’t afraid to be fashionably late. After all, when you’re from old money, everyone else is simply too early. The Cartier Tank Must comes in a series of vibrant hues, however the black fits the brief best here. Plus, it clocks in at under $5000AUD. After all, the rich stay rich by not spending needlessly. And perhaps through exploiting the masses — but that’s another story.
Model: Tank Must
Movement: Quartz
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Case Diameter: 29.5mm x 22mm
3. H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds
Despite what the TikTok crowd will tell you, quiet luxury isn’t synonymous with neutrals. The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds shows off the manufacture’s penchant for fumé dials, with the absence of hour markers letting the gradient effect take centre stage. While it looks like it’s crafted from stainless steel, the 40mm case is actually made of white gold; something only those in the know will , well…know.
Model: Endeavour Centre Seconds
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Case Diameter: 40mm
4. Andersen Geneve Jumping Hours
A minimalist form meets maximalist detailing in the Andersen Geneve Jumping Hours. The atypical dial featured a window at the top to display the hours and a subdial at the botton to display the minutes. The rest of the yellow gold dial real estate is occupied by an intricate hand-engraved guilloché pattern; something that’s repeated on the oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Model: Jumping Hours
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Case Diameter: 38mm
5. A. Lange & Söhne 1815
A nod to the birthyear of A. Lange & Söhne founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the 1815 epitomises quiet luxury. Its slim case allows it to slip under your shirt cuff, while the manually wound movement ensures a regular visceral connection with your watch. The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 is laden with subtly luxurious details; the 38.5mm rose gold case houses a dial crafted from solid silver and is presented on an alligator leather strap.
Model: 1815
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Case Diameter: 38.5mm
6. Breguet Classique 7637
For those who like their quiet luxury to do a little talking. Belying its understated appearance, the Breguet Classique 7637 is equipped with a minute repeater function that chimes the time upon request. The glossy black dial is achieved through grand feu enamelling, while the sapphire crystal caseback shows off one of the most intricately decorated movements currently on the market.
Model: Classique 7637
Movement: Manual winding
Water Resistance: N/A
Case Diameter: 42mm
7. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor
Parmigiani Fleurier is the epitome of ‘if you know, you know’. The watch that watchmakers wear, it’s known for its unique yet understated aesthetic; reinterpreting traditional watchmaking principles into contemporary designs. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is one of the Swiss manufacture’s slimmest models yet. Its elegant appearance comes courtesy of a grey matte guilloché dial, while its stainless steel case and integrated bracelet cater to modern tastes.
Model: Tonda PF Micro-Rotor
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Diameter: 40mm
8. Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
Emulating a model launched in the year of its namesake, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 is an underrated model in the Swiss manufacture’s stable. Its cushion case, positioning of the crown between 1 and 2 o’clock, and diagonal orientation of the time provide it with a distinctive character — a bolder yet still classic take on an old money watch.
Model: Historiques American 1921
Movement: Manual winding
Water Resistance: 3ATM
Case Diameter: 40mm
Words by T. Angel
