Chiang Mai is not wanting for luxury hotels and resorts, with the rose of the north positively teeming with viable upmarket outposts. But while the resorts out of town capture the beauty of the surrounding region’s countryside to great effect and the hotels within the city walls offer a viable launch pad for exploration, when it comes to balancing an accessible location with a boutique feeling, options start to thin out.
A property steeped in history, 137 Pillars House respects its storied past without slavishly fawning over it. Centred around a 19th century colonial teak homestead that originally served as the headquarters of the East Borneo Trading Company and was the former home of Leonowens, the son of Anna Leonowens—the governess in the royal court of Siam, as depicted in the musical The King and I—137 Pillars House simultaneously draws guests into the past while taking them forward on a wholly new journey.
Enveloping guests in the allure of a bygone era, 137 Pillars House cultivates the ideal balance between old and new. Behind the desk at the reception sala is a feature wall designed to resemble the draws of an old-world post office or apothecary, while an abundance of verdant living walls (the most striking bordering the pool) work to block out the surrounding modern condo development neighbouring the property.
An impressive attention to detail adds to the immersive experience, with live piano music playing every evening from 6pm to 10pm. While this serves as a musical accompaniment to dinner at the in-house restaurant Palette, it’s equally as enjoyable from one’s own private terrace overlooking the grounds.
Continuing the old-world colonial charm (sans…well, colonisation) is the presence of true Thai hospitality. Every guest at 137 Pillars House is assigned a personal butler, who is reachable via WhatsApp (and in person at the property) to assist with any and everything during your stay — we appreciated how our butler Ray would send us a lovely good morning note upon waking. The service is strong across all facets of the boutique hotel, with everyone from Khun Aim, the front-of-house staff who met us at the airport for our complimentary transfer and the servers at breakfast Khun Ech, Khun Torch, and Khun Fee to the cleaning personnel consistently attentive throughout our stay and unfailing in their warmth and graciousness.
Read on for our full review of 137 Pillars House.
The lowdown: 137 Pillars House
The hook; why stay at 137 Pillars House?
A sophisticated boutique hotel with an intriguing history, 137 Pillars House acts as a charming reprieve from the tourist crowds within the city walls without sacrificing accessibility to the old town and its multivarious sights.
How to get there
Located a short walk away from the old city across the Ping River—during the colonial era, foreigners were required to live on this side of the river while only Thai people were permitted to inhabit the other side—137 Pillars House sits within the leafy neighbourhood of Wat Gate. It’s around a 15-minute drive from Chiang Mai International Airport; a journey made infinitely easier by the hotel’s complimentary transfer service.
Design and architecture
The aforementioned teak building—also known as Baan Borneo—and its namesake pillars were meticulously restored and weatherproofed and now holds court as a stately presence at the centre of the boutique hotel.
Rather than mimic the exact colonial Lanna aesthetic of the 19th century building, Bangkok interior design firm P49Deesign has opted to have the surrounding clusters of guest villas echo the structure in contrasting whitewashed materials and adding new life to its narrative. Snaking their way around the property, each villa cluster comprises four, six, or eight bedrooms, with the cluster format working to maximise plant life and walkable public space within the property, while contributing to its residential feel.
The residential vibe is further contributed to by the recessed layout of the property, with guests greeted by a lily pond outside the dignified reception sala. Landscaping by Bangkok-based firm P Landscape proceeds to take them on a journey through flora, with abundant wild plant life punctuated by ficus, longan, and flame trees gradually getting more cultivated as one moves through the property, with the old teak homestead standing tall on the manicured stepped lawn.
While the interiors of the original teak homestead are now limited to a library, lounge, and the intimate Palette restaurant, it’s been seamlessly extended to connect to the original outbuildings, with The Dining Room incorporated within the same structure. Within the homestead, the rich hues of the teak wood are complemented by a colour palette of teal, blues, and greens. Thai details such as carved wooden ceiling art and hanging lanterns contribute to the charm of the space.
Rooms and suites
137 Pillars House is an all-suite hotel, with 30 guest suites on offer. Regardless of room typology, each suite is an expansive affair, boasting high ceilings, walk-in wardrobes, vast bathrooms with freestanding bathtubs and double vanities as well as separate indoor and outdoor showers, a plush four poster bed, and a verandah or balcony complete with a vast daybed and rocking chair.
The 30 suites are divided into five distinct types, with the name of each nodding to a pivotal element or person within the hotel’s history—Rajah Brooke, East Borneo, David Fleming Macfie, William Bain, and Louis Leonowens—each spanning from 70m² to 135m². With the exception of the lead-in Rajah Brooke suite, which houses two people, all suites are able to accommodate between three to four people, either on a convertible divan or sofa bed.
Our party of three was accommodated within one of the two William Bain Terrace suites, a 100m² suite capturing views of the historical homestead, pool, and landscaped grounds. Located on the upper floor, the suite is more than amply sized for three people, with a separate living area which can either be opened up to connect to the bedroom or closed off to provide delineation between spaces.
When it comes to suite interiors, colonial design reigns supreme. Dark teak hardwood floors and furniture are complemented by an oldschool glam colour palette of beige, cream, chocolate brown, and black with welcome pops of red throughout. No small detail is foregone here, with touches of rattan, elephant-printed cushions, and Jim Thompson silk soft furnishings ground the space in its locality. Far from appearing staid, a use of clean lines and rectilinear forms combined with elevated materials such as the brass bar cart keep things feeling fresh.
The bathroom is a masterclass in design in itself, pairing a generous use of marble on the double vanity with hand-painted tiles and carved wood and brass details. The spacious bathroom has both an indoor and outdoor shower, as well as a sunken bathtub overlooking the foliage outside.
Tea and coffee
137 Pillars House has in-room tea and coffee facilities in the form of a kettle and a Nespresso coffee pod machine. Tea bags are by Saro Bangkok, with the Thai brand’s Black Lotus, Green Lotus, and Mint Lotus teas on offer. Coffee pods are by Nespresso, with both caffeinated and decaffeinated options available.
Bathroom products
Bathroom products are 137 Pillars House branded for body wash, body lotion, shampoo, and conditioner, with the products boasting a beautiful jasmine scent. There’s also soap by fellow Thai brand Panpuri, which is scented with jasmine and mint.
Comfort factor
This bed was so comfortable I considered rummaging around in the sheets to find out what mattress they used. Fortunately, 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai was more than happy to divulge their secrets to somnolence, with the Sealy Posturepedic Premier Ultra Plus mattresses their weapon of choice.
It’s also worth noting that the guest bed offering is one of the most comfortable—and aesthetically pleasing—setups compared to other luxury hotels. Eschewing rollaway beds (I’m told the general manager isn’t a fan) in favour of sofa or divan beds means the ‘third’ guest is more than an afterthought. In our suite, the extra bed in the living room has a full sized mattress that was almost as comfortable as the aforementioned four poster bed. It seamlessly blended in with the colonial atmosphere, offering a comfortable sleep at night and acting as a space to lounge during the day.
The expansive nature of our William Bain Terrace suite meant that there was more than enough space for three people, with the spacious bathroom a particular highlight.
Food and drink
137 Pillars House is home to two restaurants and a bar.
The Dining Room is a space for casual dining, with the buffet breakfast served here daily. With its four poster seating with gauzy pale blue curtains that subtly filter in the natural light, carved wooden walls, and lush foliage views, it offers a serene location to start your day in.
Located within the teak homestead and open for lunch and dinner, Palette is an intimate space serving up western and Thai cuisine. We dined here on our first evening at 137 Pillars House and ordered from a dedicated vegetarian menu. We focused on the Thai offerings on the menu, with the tom kha gai, green curry, and pad thai among the best we had in Thailand. In particular, the tom kha gai was impeccably well balanced, with the perfect amount of lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves.
There’s also the characterful Jack Bain’s Bar located opposite Palette in the teak homestead. Named after a colourful Scottish legend, Jack Bain’s Bar appears in both 137 Pillars properties (the other being the glitzy 137 Pillars Suites & Residences in Bangkok) and serves up colonial and Asian-inspired cocktails, premium whisk(e)y, bespoke spirits, and sabered champagne. While the bar was closed for renovation during our stay, we’re told the space is evocative of old-school gentleman’s clubs and makes for the ideal place to kick back with a dram after dinner.
Tell us about the breakfast
Breakfast is served in The Dining Room, with a buffet spread spanning two adjoining rooms; there’s hot western, Thai, and Chinese dishes on offer (usual suspects like pad see ew and pad thai are joined by spring rolls and fried gyozas), as well as a made-to-order egg station in one room, while the cold larder is dedicated to fruits, salads, pastries, and dairy (with non-dairy options like coconut yogurt available). One of our favourite things about the buffet breakfast at 137 Pillars House is that the made-to-order offering extends to the Thai and Chinese hot dishes, with the friendly staff on hand to whip up pad thais or clear soups to cater to various dietary requirements.
Spa and facilities
Wellness is woven into the foundation of 137 Pillars. Literally — the gym is located beneath the teak homestead, in a space carved out between the pillars. Open 24 hours a day, the air-conditioned facility is equipped with Technogym weights and cardio machines, as well as free weights.
Opposite the teak homestead is the 25-metre lap pool, which is flanked by a vertical garden wall on one side and lined with sunbeds on the other. Cocktails, juices, and light snacks are available to order through your private butler, while complimentary citrus infused water is on tap.
For those wishing for true escapism, such can be had at Nitra Serenity Centre, the boutique outpost’s spa offering. The treatment menu takes a holistic approach, with a plethora of Thai massage options and body and facial treatments sitting alongside more specialised services like abdominal massage, lymphatic massage, and reiki.
The service
We’re used to expecting good service from well-known global brands, but in the past have found some beautifully designed boutique hotels can fall short on the human element. Fortunately, 137 Pillars House excels at both, showcasing true local Thai hospitality at every step of the guest journey. Going beyond meeting guest needs, staff were perceptive, anticipatory, and genuinely caring, continually striving to make our stay both comfortable and memorable.
Family affair
Ideally suited to family or multigenerational travel, the generously sized suites and comfortable extra beds mean there’s ample space for up to four people in the larger suite categories. While children aren’t explicitly catered for in terms of dedicated activities or restaurant menus, the warm service by the staff makes little ones feel welcome while the personal butler service aids parents with accommodating any specific needs.
Sustainability initiatives
137 Pillars House employs energy conservation methods in its suites by keeping the air conditioning at 24-25°C, with the auto shut-off activating if doors are left open. The boutique hotel is also committed to becoming fully plastic-free, with glass bottles provided in the room and a plastic-free laundry service.
AR Verdict
Elegantly recalling a bygone era, it would be easy for 137 Pillars House to coast on its aesthetic merit. But it’s the finer details and commitment to warm and caring service that make it a truly transportive experience, plucking guests out of the popular tourist hotspot and ensconcing them within a luxurious and glamorous take on a colonial respite.
137 Pillars House is open for bookings, with suites priced from around $850AUD/night.
Address: 2 ถนน NHA Wat Kaet 1 Alley, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai, Thailand
Words by T. Angel
