Picture the landscapes of Norway, Finland, and the moon converging on one driveable island and you’ll start to grasp the enduring appeal of Iceland. Despite having become one of the top travel destinations in the world for those in pursuit of adventure and breathtaking nature in equal measure, Iceland still feels like something of a hidden gem. While the country has certainly felt the impacts of being a tourist hot spot, its untamed beauty remains unchanged, with its cascading waterfalls, volcanic regions, and dramatic moss-covered landscapes no less beautiful for having been experienced by a greater number of travellers.
Although it’s possible to use the capital city of Reykjavik as a base to see some of Iceland’s most famous attractions; there’s far more to the country than the Golden Circle. Fortunately, the road to destinations off the beaten track is a road rather well-travelled (not to mention well-built). Route 1, Iceland’s main motorway—colloquially known as the Ring Road—loops around the island, connecting major cities and traversing through some of the country’s most stunning natural wonders.
One of the best things about the country is that there are so many unnamed picturesque locations in between main attractions on the Ring Road that even in the height of tourist season, it’s not uncommon to have an entire waterfall, river, glacier, or valley to yourself (not to mention seemingly endless photo opportunities). Away from the main cities of Reykjavik or Akureyri—where most Icelanders are based—both the population and amenities begin to taper off quickly, making it essential to plan your trip ahead.
Spanning just over 1300 kilometres, the Ring Road covers most of the country, bypassing North Iceland, the Westfjords, and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula (all of which require a 4WD to explore). While the entire Ring Road can technically be covered in a day, speeding through the countryside without stopping kind of defeats the purpose of visiting. For the best Iceland Ring Road experience, we’d recommend dedicating ten days to your trip.
To help make it easier to navigate the land of fire and ice, we’ve put together the ultimate guide to exploring Iceland’s Ring Road.
Should you rent a car or a camper van in Iceland?
While the past few years have seen a handful of luxury hotel and accommodation offerings crop up around the land of fire and ice, ultimately, Iceland’s main drawcard is its natural beauty. To us, the ultimate luxury lies in flexibility — no matter how plush the bed or satisfying the rain shower, there’s nothing quite being able to wake up before sunrise and having a lake or waterfall all to yourself. Plus, opting for a camper van rather than a car and hotel accommodation prevents you from being beholden to set deadlines (not to mention specific locations), allowing you to take the trip at your own pace and experience the remoteness the country is known for.
We opted to go with Happy Campers, one of the most reputable—and recognisable—camper van companies in Iceland. Their fleet of vibrant red, yellow, and green camper vans work to form instant camaraderie with other Happy Campers on the road, with most vans outfitted with a bed, running water, stovetop and cooler, and battery-powered heating system. A family-owned and -run business, Happy Campers was the first camper van rental company in the country and have perfected the process down to the tee. Patrons of Happy Campers receive complimentary transfers to and from the airport, while knowledgeable staff are on site to assist with trip planning and offer site recommendations.
The ultimate Iceland Ring Road itinerary
Day 1
Land early in Reykjavik and spend the morning exploring the city. The Hallgrímskirkja, a Lutheran parish church, is dedicated to the memory of Hallgrímur Pétursson, a beloved poet and pastor. Towering over Reykjavik, the Hallgrímskirkja is visible from every corner of the city. Its atypical curved spire and side wings imitate the columns of hexagonal basalt found throughout the country, with the resultant building boasting a distinctly gothic design. Depending on the day, stop for lunch at Reykjavík Kitchen — make sure you get the Skyr Crème Brûlée for dessert.
Bypass the Blue Lagoon (you can do it on the way back) and drive an hour to the Reykjadalur Hot Springs. Unlike the Blue Lagoon, Reykjadalur is a natural hot spring river surrounded by mountains — and, it’s completely free. Set within a valley, it takes around an hour to complete the uphill walk to the hot spring river (walking back downhill is a bit quicker). The naturally steamy river gets warmer as you move upwards, so if the temperature isn’t right for you, move around until you find a comfortable spot.
Day 2
Time to hit the most popular (read: touristy) areas in Iceland, the Golden Circle. But first, set your sights on Þórufoss, an impressive yet oft-missed waterfall that was actually featured in Game of Thrones.
Then, head to Þingvellir National Park which houses the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet. There are several ravines as a result of tectonic shifts, many of which are filled with water from the melted Langjökull glacier. The glacial water has travelled underground for decades through porous lava rock which acts as a natural filter, so by the time it reaches the ravines it’s crystal clear. If snorkelling and diving takes your fancy, you can do so in the Silfra Gorge which is located between the two continents.
Next, head to the Geysir Geothermal Area. The original geyser that gave the location its name has been dormant for years, however its neighbour, the Strokkur geyser, erupts every few minutes and is a sight to behold. Rounding off the Golden Circle trio of attractions is Gullfoss (foss means waterfall), a powerful waterfall fed by the Langjökull glacier.
Round off the day with a trip to the Kerid Crater, a volcanic lake surrounded by red volcanic rock. The vivid blue hue of the water comes courtesy of the mineral-rich soil.
Day 3
Starting off in the early hours of the morning means there’s a good chance you’ll have the majestic Seljalandsfoss to yourself (well, you and a few other early risers). Seljalandsfoss is one of the few waterfalls you can walk behind, but prepare to get wet; waterproof hiking boots and a poncho are a must. Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the lesser-known Gljúfrabúi waterfall. Hidden inside a gorge, you’ll have to traipse over some rocks (or wade through the stream if you’re up for it) to reach it.
Continue driving east until you reach Skogafoss. Visible from the Ring Road itself, this waterfall arrives rather suddenly and sets the tone for several unnamed waterfalls to come. A short drive further and you’ll find the small fishing town of Vik, best known for the black sand beach Reynisfjara. Check out the dramatic basalt columns (the natural phenomenon that inspired the design of the Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavík) and be sure to keep a safe distance from the ocean, as the waves can be dangerous.
In the mood for a mid-morning dip? Seljavallalaug Pool is a manmade pool fed by a natural hot spring; surrounded by mountains, it’s a bucolic experience. It’s best experienced during the warmer months as despite being fed into by a hot spring, it’s only warm in certain spots around the perimeter and relatively cool in the middle.
Hop back into the car and drive towards the Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, stopping along the way at the awe-inducing moss-covered landscape that is Eldhraun lava field. The Fjadrárgljúfur canyon is yet another breathtaking natural wonder — though it was closed for four years (until late 2019) after experiencing overtourism as a result of being featured in a Justin Bieber music video. Fortunately, it’s now reopened and makes for the ideal afternoon walk.
If you have energy for yet another walk, try Svartifoss, a waterfall with a backdrop of black basalt columns. Otherwise, settle in for the night. If you want to rest your weary bones in an actual bed, the Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon is your best bet.
Day 4
In the morning, make your way to the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. You can book a boat tour of the lagoon in advance to get up close and personal with the glaciers, but even covering the landscape on foot is a surreal experience. A mere hop away is the Diamond Beach, another black sand beach named for the shards and orbs of ice that have made their way down from the nearby Breiðamerkurjökull glacier.
On your way to the Eastfjords, stop at Stokksnes, a rugged coastal area backdropped by the Vestrahorn mountain. Nearby is the Hoffellsjökull Glacier Lagoon, which is part of the UNESCO-listed Vatnajökull ice cap. Accessible via a rocky off-road, a 4WD is recommended, however it may be possible to use a 2WD during the summer months. Quite literally the road less taken, Hoffellsjökull is one of those locations that it’s possible to have entirely to yourself, making it all the more worth visiting. To truly soak it in, follow the walking track around the mountains.
Continue driving to the Eastfjords. One of the least developed regions in Iceland, there’s little to do here but drive by and enjoy the sweeping landscapes — stopping for regular photo ops, of course. A few sights worth seeing are Gufufoss, a Viking village replica developed for a movie that never ended up being produced, the iconic Red Chair art installation along the Ring Road, and the Studlagil Canyon.
Best known for its rainbow path, the town of Seydisfjordur makes for a good place to stop for a meal (and to stock up on groceries) before continuing on the Ring Road.
Day 5
Start the day by seeing the most powerful waterfall in Iceland—and the second-most in Europe, after the Rhine Falls—Dettifoss.
Drive towards Mývatn, an area laden with otherworldly natural wonders. Filled with lava fields and crater lakes, the entire region smells of sulphur which makes for an…interesting olfactory experience. The Viti Crater, within the active Krafla Volcano, is filled with bright blue-green water. Lovers of dystopian novels will enjoy the somewhat post-apocalyptic landscape of the Krafla lava fields, where it’s not uncommon to encounter pools of steaming mineral water, sharp craters in the ground, and rocks hot enough to melt your Salomans off.
Continue the post-apocalyptic theme with a visit to the nearby Námaskarð geothermal area, a similarly barren—albeit more colourful—landscape teaming with mud cauldrons and steaming vents. Consider a visit to the Mývatn Nature Baths; slightly smaller than the Blue Lagoon, it makes for a relaxing respite after a long few days of driving.
Head north towards Húsavík to spend the night.
Day 6
Húsavík is known for being the whale-watching capital of the country, so book a tour in advance (we’d recommend locking in the earliest timing possible as they take a few hours).
You can never have too many waterfalls, so make your way west towards Goðafoss, just over half an hour’s drive from Húsavík, before heading to Akureyri. In good weather, we’d recommend deviating from the Ring Road here and taking route #84, which adds 10-15 minutes and a whole lot more scenery (including the very cute orange Svalbarðseyri lighthouse) to your journey.
You’ll be doing less driving today, so take some time to explore the town and stop for a meal (and perhaps a drink) at the Mulaberg Bistro & Bar, which prides itself on its use of locally sourced ingredients and features fresh, produce-centric dishes with several vegan options on the menu.
Day 7
After breakfast at Akureyri, take a detour off Ring Road and head north on route #76 towards the Tröllaskagi Peninsula. Often skipped by most due to being off the road well-travelled, it’s flecked with imposing cliffs, mountains, and fjords, making it well worth the extra kilometres.
Rejoin Ring Road and take a quick visit to Víðimýrarkirkja—a turf church that wouldn’t look out of place on a Lord of the Rings set—before continuing west towards Snæfellsnes.
Day 8
Take the day to explore the wonders of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Housing some of the country’s most impressive mountains and waterfalls, there’s a photo opportunity every few hundred metres, making it difficult to see everything in a day. That said, the Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss waterfalls are a must, as is the charming picturesque town of Stykkishólmur.
Day 9
Continue exploring the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the morning before setting south for Reykjavik, stopping at the Hraunfossar and Barnafossar waterfalls along the way if you can spare the time.
Enjoy dinner in town at the Michelin-starred Brút (for seafood lovers) or Matur og Drykkur (for traditional Icelandic cuisine).
Day 10
If you’re willing to spend your last day in Iceland battling hordes of tourists, take a trip to the Blue Lagoon and enjoy the sulphur-rich geothermal waters. To avoid your hair turning to straw, apply a deep conditioning hair mask before entering the water (you’ll thank us later).
Explore camper van rental options with Happy Campers here.
Words by T. Angel
