Marseille has a reputation for being a little gritty, however this doesn’t detract from its charm. The key is knowing where to go. When it comes to hidden gems and secret spots, the best travel advice often comes courtesy of the locals. And with Marseille, who better to get stylish recommendations from than Simon Porte Jacquemus? The founder of the eponymous brand was born in Salon-de-Provence and grew up in Mallemort, a commune close to the port city of Marseille. While Jacquemus is now based in Paris, Southern France has long provided inspiration for his collections, with the designer referencing his hometown in his work previously staging shows in a lavender field in Provence and at the Calanque de Sormiou, on the outskirts of Marseille.
To this day, Jacquemus splits his time between the sophisticated streets of Paris and the sun-drenched port city of Marseille, amassing a plethora of dreamy go-to haunts along the way. In the form of a series of wanderlust-inducing images and clips posted to Instagram, the designer has shared his favourite places to dine, shop, see and do, and stay, as well as a few date night suggestions in the coastal town.
While Jacquemus has—rightfully—let his captivating visual content do the talking in his mini city guide, we’ve collated the finer details (think overall vibe and addresses) so you have everything you need to enjoy a stylish summer in the south of France. Without further ado, our ‘maxi’ city guide to Marseille details everywhere Simon Porte Jacquemus wants you to eat, stay, dance, and play.
Where to eat in Marseille
Yima
An Algerian restaurant by Marseille local and former Top Chef contestant Ella Aflalo, dishes at Yima boast Algerian, Arabic, and Mediterranean influences, with highlights including sea bass with zaatar and her mother’s own shakshouka recipe. Editor’s note: As of April 2024, Yima has closed down, with Zerma Burgers by Jérôme Benoît (better known as Jéjé Barbu) occupying the space.
Address: 27 Rue d’Aubagne, Marseille, France
La Mercerie
Helmed by a trio of nomadic restauranteurs (hailing from England and Canada), La Mercerie places an emphasis on exacting techniques and high-quality locally sourced ingredients. Tasting menus paired with natural wines take centre stage here, with the menu continually rotating. Try the five-course ‘feed me’ menu, where English chef Harry Cummins serves an experimental feast guided by what’s in season.
Address: 9 Cr Saint-Louis, 13001 Marseille, France
Epicerie L’Idéal
A restaurant and traiteur, Epicerie L’Idéal offers a robust selection of artisanal pantry staples and delicacies (think tinned fish, pesto, antipasto, and an array of pastas and rice). The restaurant side serves up authentic Mediterranean dishes, with simple, low-intervention fare showcasing the beauty of the local produce.
Address: 11 Rue d’Aubagne, Marseille, France
Chez Yassine
Helmed by Chef Yassine who moved from Tunisia to Marseille in the ’90s, Chez Yassine is a Tunisian restaurant executing the specialties of his native land with locally sourced ingredients. The restaurant’s signature dishes are leblebi and kefteji, while other regulars on the menu include seafood spaghetti, couscous with lamb, and mloukhiya (a dish made from jute leaves and served alongside mains).
Address: 8 Rue d’Aubagne, Marseille, France
Chez Etienne
Chez Etienne is an old-school pizzeria serving classic, unfussy Italian fare. How old-school? Well, so much so that we can’t even link it, as the owner apparently doesn’t believe in websites, telephone numbers, or reservations. Guess you’ll just have to go there! Oh, and take cash, as he apparently doesn’t believe in credit cards either.
Address: 43 Rue de Lorette, Marseille, France
Chez Paul
Expect freshly caught seafood taking pride of place in bouillabaisse, spaghetti vongole, and fish and vegetables, served with water views. Chez Paul is worth visiting for the picturesque location alone, but the fresh fare certainly sweetens the deal.
Address: 35 Rue Désiré Pelaprat, Marseille, France
Pizzeria La Bonne Mère
This relaxed pizzeria in Marseille has a curated menu of tomato-based and white pizzas, and a selection of desserts alongside Italian and French wines.
Address: 16 Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, Marseille, France
Sépia
Perched on a hilltop, Chef Paul Langlère and his team serve exacting bistro fare that seeks to showcase the inimitable qualities of fresh Mediterranean produce.
Address: 2 Rue Vauvenargues, Marseille, France
La Relève
Something of a Marseille institution, La Relève has been around for 80 years. Once the sole haunt of locals, the bar is now also visited by Parisians and foreigners, retaining its buzzy, congenial ambience. Open morning to night, it’s the ideal place to enjoy a coffee and croissant, or something heartier (and more intoxicating) later in the day.
Address: 41 Rue d’Endoume, Marseille, France
Otto
A lively cantina, Otto offers a taste of Italy in France. Mediterranean influences reign supreme, seen in dishes like linguine vongole, Burrata di Puglia, and fior di latte ice cream.
Address: 150 Rue Jean Mermoz, Marseille, France
Tuba Club
Quite simply the place to be. A beach club, hotel, and restaurant, Tuba Club is where French elite come to commune and frolic. Order a cocktail and try the Linguini Tuba, a clam sauce with crispy breadcrumbs.
Address: 2 Bd Alexandre Delabre, Marseille, France
Le Bar des Amis
Open from dawn to…well, almost dawn again, Le Bar des Amis is a lively setting for petit dejeuner, lunch, and cocktails alike.
Address: 23 Av. de la Pointe Rouge, Marseille, France
Chez Le Belge
Located within the Calanques National Park—a stretch of breathtaking cliffs running from Marseille to Cassis, replete with watering holes and mini fjords—Chez Le Belge is a homey restaurant that quite literally sits on the water, serving simple, hearty fare.
Address: Calanque de Marseilleveyre, Marseille, France
Chez Jeannot
Pizza lovers are well catered to at Chez Jeannot. The restaurant takes its woodfired pizza seriously, with an array of traditional offerings including the moit moit, a half cheese and half anchovy pizza on a tomato sauce base.
Address: 129 Rue du Vallon des Auffes, Marseille, France
Glacerie Vanille Noire
An ice cream chain offering up to two dozen rotating flavours, with one consistent always remaining: vanilla noire, or black vanilla.
Address: 15 Rue Caisserie, Marseille, France OR Opéra, Marseille, France OR 2 Rue Lorette, Marseille
Bricoleurs de Douceur
Dessert lovers would do well to seek out the patisseries at Bricoleurs de Douceur; thoughtfully made and impeccably executed, they’re a visual and gustatory feast.
Address: 35 Bd Philippon, Marseille, France
Boulangerie Maison Saint-Honoré
It’s hard to go wrong with pastries anywhere in France, however you’d be remiss not to pay a visit to one of Boulangerie Maison Saint-Honoré’s three locations. While the croissants and pain au chocolats are invariably delicious, bypass them in favour of the broiche flavoured with pralines, pistachios, orange chocolate, and salted butter caramel, and the puff pastry bread, a must-try hybrid of croissant and puff pastry that makes for sandwich bread unlike any other.
Address: 131 Rue d’Endoume, Marseille, France OR 41 Avenue du Prado, Marseille, France OR 28 Boulevard du Cabot, Marseille, France
L’Eau a la Bouche
This petite pizzeria packs a plethora of colour and flavour into a positvely tiny square footage. With three terrace tables, L’Eau a la Bouche offers both dine-in and takeaway options (we’d recommend the former for the #vibes), with specialties including the anchovy and cheese and four cheese pizzas.
Address: 120 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, Marseille, France
Where to shop in Marseille
Simon Porte Jacquemus’ design flair extends well beyond the realm of fashion, with his office spaces and pop ups exuding inimitable style. With that in mind, the designer’s recommendations on the best places to shop in Marseille are not to be missed. Spanning apparel, homewares, and lifestyle goods, they’re a treasure trove of well-curated wares.
Jogging is a concept store spanning men’s and women’s apparel, lifestyle goods, and homewares — there’s even an on-site restaurant hosting chefs-in-residence.
The oldest hardware store in the world, Maison Empereur has since expanded to include a selection of authentic French goods that celebrate the ‘art of living’ across homewares, bath and beauty products, stationary, and clothing. If you dream of the provincial French life (or simply wish to evoke cottage core), this one’s for you. Supplement this with a trip to the Quartier des Antiquaires, a vibrant flea market filled with antique and second hand goods. The flea market takes place a few times a year, however the entire quarter boasts galleries and shops that fit the vibe and are worth visiting.
For something more contemporary, Honoré offers an array of coastal-inspired French furniture and decor.
Maison Mère is home to create streetwear, with both second hand finds and fresh new collabs on offer.
The literary inclined will do well to visit Librairie L’Odeur du Temps, which houses a selection of French and foreign literature, as well as plays, poetry, and works on philosophy, architecture, politics, and psychoanalysis.
Finally, Le Père Blaize is a must-visit for the witchy girls and guys. The pharmacy and herboristerie was founded in1815 and is the perfect place to shop for teas, herbal concoctions, and plant-based medicines in an old-world apothecary setting.
What to do and see in Marseille
The places Simon Porte Jacquemus recommends visiting in Marseille (ideally with a loved one).
Notre-Dame de la Guarde
A catholic basilica that presides over the port city, Notre-Dame de la Guarde is an exemplary display of Neo-Byzantine architecture.
Address: Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, Marseille, France
Cité radieuse de Marseille
A modernist residential apartment building, the Cité radieuse de Marseille boasts a striking colourful facade. Designed by architect Charles-Edouard Jeanneret of Le Corbusier, the post-war building is an iconic example of modernist architecture and a must-visit for design lovers.
Address: 280 Bd Michelet, 13008 Marseille, France
Calanque de Sormiou
The second-largest calanque within the Calanques National Park, the Calanque de Sormiou is one of the most beautiful places to visit in Marseille. During the summer, it’s exclusively accessible by foot.
Address: Calanque de Sormiou, Marseille, France
Grande Roue de Marseille
A 55-metre ferris wheel (the second-tallest in France) offering views over the water.
Address: 138 Avenue Pierre Mendès, Marseille, France
Niolon
With a charming village and sheltered swim spots, the Niolon calanque feels like a world of its own.
Plage Malmousque
Close to the old port, this concrete cove is located in the 7th arrondissement of Marseille. A historically significant location, it overlooks the ‘island of the hanged’, named so for being the place where Alphonse V of Aragon took revenge on the allies of Louis III in 1423 by hanging a dozen of his notables. Despite its bloody past, the town boasts undeniable charm, with pretty provincial houses bathed in vibrant hues scattered through the mazes of tiny streets and alleyways. It’s a little difficult to access on foot, but worth the effort.
L’Estaque
Known as the painter’s district, the town of L’Estaque has served as inspiration for many an artist, including Paul Cézanne, Georges Braque, and Pablo Picasso.
Le Train de la Côte Bleue
Travelling from Marseille to Miramas over the Côte Bleue and across serveral viaducts, this panoramic train ride provides a new vantage point from which to enjoy the calanques. It runs through towns like L’Estaque and Niolon and allows you to hop on and off.
Taxi Bateau
These boat taxis shuttle between Old Port to Pointe Rouge and L’Estaque, as well as Pointe Rouge to Les Goudes. In the summer months, they depart every hour during the day.
The best nightlife in Marseille
Nightlife doesn’t just mean hardcore partying (though it might encompass that). Jacquemus’ recommendations for enjoying Marseille after dark range from buzzy cafes and bars to thronging clubs.
Le Café de L’abbaye
A good place to kick off an evening, Le Café de L’abbaye offers hearty, homecooked meals at affordable prices.
Address: 3 Rue d’Endoume, Marseille, France
Bar Gaspard
Specialising in spontaneous, expressive cuisine and cocktails that linger on the palate, Bar Gaspard is an equally good way to start or end a night out.
Address: 7 Boulevard Notre Dame, Marseille, France
Viaghiji Di Fonfon
Nestled in one of the most bucolic ports in the Marseille, linger over tapas and cocktails and watch the sun set over the city Viaghiji Di Fonfon.
Address: 136-142 Rue du Vallon des Auffes, Marseille, France
Le Bar sur la Mer
Located right on the beach, Le Bar sur la Mer is the perfect place to dance the night away with your feet right in the water.
Address: 15 Quai de Rive Neuve, Marseille, France
Where to stay in Marseille
Les Bords de Mer
This light-filled seaside hotel takes on a contemporary tone. Set within a whitewashed building, each room opens out onto the sea, with most rooms boasting a private terrace or balcony. Neutral tones and pale wooden furniture let the ocean act as an additional element of decor, omnipresent within every room. The wellness-oriented will be happy to know there’s a spa using Susanne Kaufmann products, as well as heated indoor and outdoor pools, the latter of which is on the rooftop and overlooks the sea.
Price: from $320AUD/night
Address: 52 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, Marseille, France
Explore and book Les Bords de Mer here.
Hotel Maison Empereur
The oldest hardware store in the world, Maison Empereur extends its old-world charm to the hospitality realm, with a cosy apartment in the city available to book on Airbnb. An homage to a bygone time, the character-laden apartment celebrates exudes vintage charm, showing that good design really is timeless.
Price: approx. $277AUD/night (€170/night)
Address: 4 Rue des Récolettes, Marseille, France
Explore and book Hotel Maison Empereur here.
Le Petit Nice Passedat
This five-star boutique offers a dreamy taste of the Mediterranean. Close to the city yet a world away from the hustle and bustle, Le Petit Nice Passedat comprises 16 rooms and two villas each defined by with airy, minimalist design that let the water views take centre stage.
Price: from $650AUD
Address: 17 Rue des Braves Anse de Maldormé, 156 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, Marseille, France
Explore and book Le Petit Nice Passedat here.
Jogging Samena
One of two accommodations offered by concept store Jogging, Jogging Samena is located within a former industrial site turned ruin, with photographer Olivier Amsellem restoring the place using materials already present on the site. Just 50 metres from the sea, Jogging Samena houses a living room, bedroom, kitchen, pool, and outdoor shower.
Price: $490AUD (€300/night)
Address: Boulevard de la Calanque de Samena, Marseille, France
Explore and book Jogging Samena here.
Les Cabanons de Fonfon
A duo of tiny cabins overlooking the port of Vallon des Auffes, Les Cabanons de Fonfon offers simple but comfortable accommodation close to Old Marseille.
Price: from approx. $205AUD/night (€125/night)
Address: 138 Rue du Vallon des Auffes, Marseille, France
Explore and book Les Cabanons de Fonfon here.
Le Rhul
Perched on the corniche rock overlooking the sea, Le Rhul is a family-run boutique hotel with 13 rooms. The accompanying restaurant is famed for its bouillabaisse, with the space boasting panoramic ocean views.
Price: from $275AUD/night
Address: 269 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, Marseille, France
Explore and book Le Rhul here.
Words by Esmé Duggan
Feature image courtesy of Simon Porte Jacquemus via Instagram
Cover image courtesy of Tuba Club
