We’re calling it: Audemars Piguet and Matthew Williams have released the it watch of the year. In 2021, Matthew Williams’—also known for his work as creative director of Givenchy—streetwear brand 1017 ALYX 9SM collaborated with watch customisation company MAD Paris to create a collection that offered a minimalist, brushed metal take on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
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Now, the Givenchy creative director has officially teamed up with the Swiss manufacture, with the 1017 ALYX 9SM x Audemars Piguet collaboration set to be the horological link up of the year. The limited-edition four-piece capsule collection comprises two Royal Oak and two Royal Oak Offshore references, spanning from 37mm to 42mm and available in white and yellow gold.
Both Royal Oak models are exclusively available in yellow gold, while the Royal Oak Offshore is offered in white or yellow gold.
The 37mm selfwinding three-hand model is the ultimate model for smaller wrists. Powered by the calibre 5909, it features a minimalist dial layout. Devoid of indexes or numerals, it features the ‘Audemars Piguet’ and ‘1017 ALYX 9S’ signatures at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock respectively, the the former in gold appliqué and the latter transferred. The relatively sparse dial allows its brushed satin finish to take centre stage.
Powered by the calibre 4409, the 41mm selfwinding chronograph employs a similarly essentialist approach, reducing the functional timepiece to its component parts. The traditional chronograph counters are foregone, with just the hands at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Both Royal Oak models are limited to 200 pieces each.
The slightly chunkier Royal Oak Offshore models continue the stripped back theme. Available in white or yellow gold (limited to 75 examples each), both timepieces are sized at 42mm and powered by the calibre 4404 — an integrated chronograph movement with a flyback function. Here, the chronograph hands (counters removed) have been placed at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock, with a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Save for these features, all other information typically found on the dial has been done away with.
All four Audemars Piguet x 1017 ALYX 9SM releases is equipped with a sapphire crystal caseback, designed to showcase the oscillating weight within. Crafted from white or yellow gold, it features an engraving of the 1017 ALYX 9SM signature as well as the indication of Newton’s millimetre and rotor weight; a nod to the technical references indicated by Matthew Williams on his buckles.
Auctioned during the collaboration’s launch party in Tokyo, a one-off 41mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph fused yellow gold with stainless steel. The two-tone effect was enhanced by a contrasting satin-brushed black PVD-coated gold dial. Proceeds from the auction have been pledged to the not-for-profit organisations Kids in Motion and Right to Play, which support play-based learning initiatives for disadvantaged children.
The 1017 ALYX 9SM x Audemars Piguet collaboration is priced from around $115,900AUD and available via the Audemars Piguet webstore.
Words by Theo Rosen