In the horological world, the least costly metal is also the most covetable, with the waiting lists for steel sports watches far surpassing demand for white gold, yellow gold, bronze, and platinum timepieces.
While common logic would dictate that the most expensive watches would be those crafted from expensive (i.e. precious) metals, the high demand and — often intentionally created — scarce supply of steel sports watches have seen their prices skyrocket on the secondary market over the past few years. While some models are next to impossible to purchase directly from a watch boutique without strong ties to the brand — think the Rolex Submariner and Daytona, Patek Philippe Nautilus, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — there are still some steel sports watch models that are possible to acquire.
Related: After something a little more elevated? Check out our guide to the best dress watches here
From underrated attainable models to covetable, genre-defining (yet likely un-buyable) pieces, these are the 11 best steel sports watches you need to know about.
1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Quite possibly the watch that started it all, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is defined by its screwed-down octagonal bezel (said to be inspired by the shape of a diver’s helmet), integrated bracelet, and steel construction. Conceived by the legendary watchmaker and designer Gérald Genta in 1972, the Royal Oak was the first steel sports watch to be sold for the price of its gold counterparts and can be credited with changing the landscape of contemporary horology.
Price: approx. $38,000AUD
Model: Royal Oak
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 5ATM
Case Diameter: 41mm
2. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711
Another Gérald Genta design, the Patek Philippe Nautilus came four years after the Royal Oak, in 1976. While the Royal Oak takes its cues from diver’s helmets, the Nautilus features a rounded octagonal bezel inspired by the shape of a ship’s porthole. Framed by two ‘ears’ that protect the hinge and crown, the Nautilus takes its name from the submarine in Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. Alongside the Royal Oak, it’s one of the most coveted steel sports watches of all time, regularly selling for up to ten times its regular retail price on the secondary market.
Price: nice try.
Model: Nautilus 5711
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 12ATM
Case Diameter: 40x38mm
3. Rolex Submariner
First introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner has become the reference point for pretty much every diver’s watch created thereafter. A holy grail for many a watch collector, the Submariners of today remain relatively faithful to the original and are equally as desirable on land as they are underwater.
Price: $12,600AUD
Model: Submariner
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Diameter: 41mm
Related: Dive In; The 17 Best Dive Watches To Buy In 2024
4. Tudor Black Bay 58
Once best known for being Rolex’s little brother, the Tudor Black Bay 58 is an icon in its own right. While it may bear some resemblance to the Rolex Submariner, it has an overall warmer, subtler feel, with its vintage styling, gilt details, and heritage appeal setting the Tudor Black Bay 58 apart.
Price: $5,150AUD
Model: Tudor Black Bay 58
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Diameter: 39mm
5. Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40
Part of the recently revamped Chronomat collection, the Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 fuses rugged durability with understated style, resulting in a steel sports watch you can team with a suit. The unique integrated Rouleaux bracelet makes a slick style statement, while the Chronomat’s ‘do-it-all’ approach allows it to effortlessly flit between land, air, and sea.
Price: $7,950AUD
Model: Chronomat Automatic GMT 40
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Diameter: 40mm
6. A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus
Perhaps the greatest testament to the zeitgeisty nature of the steel sports watch is the existence of the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus. Introduced in 2019, it’s a marked departure from the dress watches in precious materials typically produced by the German watch manufacturer. The brand’s first sports watch (and fourth stainless steel watch), the Odysseus carves out its own path. Designed by Günter Blümlein, it eschews the non-round case design in favour of a round case with distinct, separate lugs; with the latter distinguishing the Odysseus from its Swiss steel sports watch counterparts.
Price: approx. $83,500AUD
Model: Odysseus
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 12ATM
Case Diameter: 40.5mm
7. Zenith Chronomaster Sport
Released in 2021, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport plays with the Swiss watch manufacturer’s strengths, combining elements from archival chronometer references with the high-frequency El Primero movement. With its striking tri-compax dial and tri-colour bezel, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport is a steel sports watch icon in the making.
Price: from $15,800AUD
Model: Chronomaster Sport
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Diameter: 41mm
8. Girard-Perregaux Laureato
First introduced in 1975, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato is the ultimate sleeper hit, boasting the aesthetic of a Royal Oak but without the hype. Designed by Italian architect Adolfo Natalini, its slightly raised octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet contribute to a steel watch that effortlessly bridges the gap between sports and luxury. Its name comes from the film Il laureate (‘The Graduate’, in Italian). Best of all? This is a steel sports watch you might actually be able to buy directly from the boutique.
Price: from $14,300USD
Model: Laureato
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 20ATM
Case Diameter: 42mm
9. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
Defined by its ultra-thin proportions, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic combines Italian design with Swiss watchmaking techniques. Pioneering the union between jewellery and horology, Bulgari has become known for its innovative haute horlogerie pieces, with the titanium version of the Octo Finissimo holding the record of the world’s thinnest watch for three months (before being out-skinnied by the Richard Mille UP-01 Ferrari). This steel iteration combines avant-garde proportions with a classic matte black dial, resulting in a watch with a surprisingly striking presence on the wrist.
Price: $19,100AUD
Model: Octo Finissimo Automatic
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Diameter: 40mm
10. IWC Ingenieur 40
The formerly dressy IWC Ingenieur, first introduced in 1955, received a sporty, steel-heavy makeover in 1976 courtesy of Gérald Genta. Dubbed the IWC Ingenieur, its robust nature, bold aesthetic codes — including Genta’s favoured screw-down bezel — and large (for the time) case size have cemented it as a collector’s favourite. Responding to demand, the Swiss manufacture has introduced the IWC Ingenieur 40, which remains faithful to the design aesthetic pioneered by Genta, while incorporating contemporary ergonomics and finishes.
Price: $17,300AUD
Model: Ingenieur 40
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Diameter: 40mm
11. Chopard Alpine Eagle
A contemporary reinterpretation of the St Moritz, designed in 1980 by current co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Chopard Alpine Eagle combines past and present. Also designed by Scheufele, the Alpine Eagle has all the hallmarks of a classic steel sports watch — minus the waiting list and hefty after-market markup. Its textured dial draws inspiration from the iris of an eagle, while its three-link bracelet and paired screws on the bezel reference the original St Moritz.
Price: approx. $22,700AUD
Model: Alpine Eagle
Movement: Automatic
Water Resistance: 10ATM
Case Diameter: 41mm
Enjoyed this article? Why not check out our Ultimate Guide To Watches here; covering everything from the types of watch movements to watch styles and complications.
Words by AR Staff
