Swiss luxury watchmaker Zenith has been on a winning streak of late, resurrecting the El Primero movement and placing it within both contemporary and retro revival watches; a move which has shunted the brand into the mainstream. Initially introduced in 1969 within the monobloc Zenith A386, the El Primero marked the first automatic high-frequency chronograph movement on the market. With a high balance frequency of 36,600 oscillations, it could record times to 1/10 of a second.
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Dually inspired by the El Primero movement as well as the Chonomaster Original line released last year, the Swiss watch manufacturer has teamed up with watch destination Hodinkee to create the Zenith Chronomaster Original Limited Edition For Hodinkee. The wordily-titled watch represents the first limited-edition model in the Chronomaster Original line, featuring an opalescent salmon dial with subdials in three shades of grey.
Sporting the same ‘sweet spot’ case sizing as the Chonomaster Original — which was based on the original A386 released in 1969 — the Zenith Chronomaster Original Limited Edition For Hodinkee coalesces contemporary and vintage styles. The 38mm case and three-link bracelet are crafted from stainless steel. While relatively subdued thus far, the salmon dial enlivens the timepiece, complemented by the trio of grey shades.
Leaning more toward orange than pink, the salmon dial stands out against the muted stainless steel and makes a striking effect on the wrist. For a subtle vintage touch, the dial is enclosed by a slightly raised sapphire crystal, a nod to the acrylic lenses found on Zenith watches of yesteryear. Pump-style pushers further contribute to the retro aesthetic.
Under the dial, you’ll find the watch is kept beating with the El Primero Calibre 3600 movement, visible through the sapphire glass caseback. The Calibre 3600 boasts the same high-beat rate and column wheel design that defined the El Primero, but with the addition of modern technical enhancements to ensure smooth running. For example, rather than run the chronograph via the movement’s fourth wheel like the original, the El Primero 3600 drives the chronograph through a high-tech silicon escape wheel.
With the release of the Zenith Chronomaster Original Limited Edition For Hodinkee, the Swiss watchmaker adds another beautiful retro revival to its lineup. Priced at $9500USD, the watch has been released in a limited run of 300 pieces, available via the Hodinkee and Zenith webstores.
Words by T. Angel
