Warm and familiar, vanilla has been a mainstay in fragrance for well over a century. While many scent notes can be polarising, vanilla is typically a safe bet; while it may not be everyone’s favourite, it holds universal appeal and is at the very least mildly pleasing to most. However, that very same ‘safeness’ evoked by vanilla has contributed to its connotations as boring, staid, and—god forbid!—basic.
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But make no mistake, vanilla is back — as the main character, not merely a supporting note. Unlike other popular fragrance notes, vanilla scents are nostalgic and comforting for many, acting as a veritable hug in a bottle. And while most vanilla scents are sweet, they’re a far cry from the cloying, cake-in-a-bottle perfumes and body mists of your youth. The best vanilla fragrances of today are all grown up; sophisticated and elegant, they’re teamed with rose, oud, and spices to create multifaceted scents that are cosy, romantic, and even seductive.
Herewith, the 14 best complex vanilla fragrances on the market.
1. Kayali Vanilla 28
One for the gourmand girlies, the Kayali Vanilla 28 is for those who have outgrown the cloying vanilla fragrances of our youth but still gravitate towards the sweeter side of life. It sees Madagascan vanilla orchid and jasmine laced with soft tonka bean and brown sugar to create a delectably decadent scent reminiscent of freshly baked pastries and vanilla ice cream. Sweet, creamy, and powdery, it’s nostalgic and familiar without being too predictable.
Brand: Kayali
Scent notes: jasmine, vanilla orchid, tonka bean, musk, amber, patchouli, brown sugar
2. Tom Ford Vanilla Sex
Tom Ford Vanilla Sex sees Indian vanilla tincture, vanilla absolute, and ultravanil (a powerful, resinous vanilla note) blend to form a sweet yet sensual ode to the timeless fragrance note. A slightly bitter almond note lends a sense of edginess to the otherwise sweet and soft vanilla scent, with the addition of creamy sandalwood contributing to its longevity on the skin.
Brand: Tom Ford
Scent notes: vanilla absolute, vanilla tincture, tonka bean, ultravanil, sandalwood
3. The 7 Virtues Vanilla Woods
Since its inception over a decade ago, vegan-friendly fragrance brand The 7 Virtues has been committed to not only using sustainably sourced raw and natural ingredients but also enriching the communities it sources from, partnering with organisations like Days for Girls and Charity Water. The 7 Virtues Vanilla Woods sees gourmand notes of vanilla and caramel tempered with unexpected hits of tart, juicy pear and soft rose. Warmth comes courtesy of base notes of amber, resulting in a vanilla fragrance that’s both sweet and fresh.
Brand: The 7 Virtues
Scent notes: pear, rose, vanilla, amber, caramel
4. Bond No. 9 Greenwich Village
While this fragrance often draws comparisons to Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540, Bond No. 9 Greenwich Village is a hit in its own right. While gourmand scents are often rich and intoxicating, Bond No. 9 Greenwich Village takes a fresher, lighter approach; elegant white florals, sweet fruits, and aquatic notes are enveloped in amber, soft musks, and vanilla. Memorable without being overpowering, it’s somewhat akin to sugar water — in the best (and most bougie) way.
Brand: Bond No. 9
Scent notes: cassis, lychee, mandarin, peony, waterlily, patchouli, jasmine petals, ambrox, peach musk, vanilla, oak moss, praline
5. Goldfield & Banks Silky Woods
Vanilla adds a lush, gourmand touch to this woody oud scent. A dramatic opening of oud and wood gives way to sweet, powdery vanilla, with hints of smoke and tobacco in the background.
Brand: Goldfield & Banks
Scent notes: oud, cinnamon, tobacco leaves, saffron, ylang ylang, vanilla, sandalwood , incense
6. Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder
This isn’t your typical vanilla fragrance. Dark, addictive vanilla is swathed in sweet coconut powder, while palo santo adds depth and nuance to the scent. Soft white musks increase the addictive quality, lingering on the skin for hours after first spray. Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder has a slightly masculine undertone, making it suitable for those who don’t want a conventional vanilla scent.
Brand: Matiere Premiere
Scent notes: vanilla, coconut, white musk, palo santo
7. Snif Vanilla Vice
Tapping into some of our favourite childhood memories of vanilla, Snif Vanilla Vice is redolent of an oldschool ice cream parlour. Vanilla intermingles with an ice cream accord, brightened by sugar and jasmine and warmed by soft musks.
Brand: Snif
Scent notes: ice cream, vanilla, jasmine sambac, sugar, amberwood, musk, orcanox
8. DS & Durga Deep Dark Vanilla
Proving vanilla needn’t always be gourmand, DS & Durga Deep Dark Vanilla offers a nuanced take on the popular fragrance note. Showcasing the beauty of natural vanilla, DS & Durga Deep Dark Vanilla teams the eponymous note with verdant plants, hay, and patchouli to create a raw, earthy, and slightly smokey scent.
Brand: DS & Durga
Scent notes: cabreuva, orchid, pink pepper, vines, green vanilla leaves, cypress root, vanilla absolute, dark patchouli, hay
9. Byredo Vanille Antique
Vanilla and freesia are tempered by cashmere wood, cistus oil, and amber which help ground the sweeter notes and add a warm, spicy, and earthy quality that results in a darker, more nuanced fragrance more suited to nights out than daytime wear.
Brand: Byredo
Scent notes: freesia, plum, amber, cashmere woods, vanilla beans, cistus oil
10. Santa Maria Novella Vaniglia
Another unconventional interpretation of vanilla, Santa Maria Novella Vaniglia references its heritage as an aphrodisiac in this oriental fragrance. Bright citrus notes meet soft jasmine and vanilla and cosy benzoins in this elegant scent.
Brand: Santa Maria Novella
Scent notes: lemon, bergamot, orange, jasmine, vanilla, sweet woods, benzoin
11. Dior Vanilla Diorama
Inspired by Christian Dior’s favourite dessert, the Diorama Gourmand, this fragrance is a grown-up gourmand that sees bourbon vanilla accented by rum, patchouli, orange wedge, and cocoa to create an elegantly edible scent.
Brand: Dior
Scent notes: vanilla, cocoa, rum, orange wedge
12. Heretic Dirty Vanilla
The vanilla planifolia is an orchid that blooms only once a year. This somewhat animalic fragrance sees it blended with coriander, vetiver, patchouli, synthetic vanilla, and sandalwood. The combination of sweet and savoury notes make it the ideal vanilla scent for those who aren’t fans of dessert-like, syrupy interpretations.
Brand: Heretic
Scent notes: cedar, coriander, ho wood, vanilla, styrax, vanillin, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood
13. Ellis Brooklyn Vanilla Milk
Designed to work symbiotically with your skin’s unique chemistry, Ellis Brooklyn Vanilla Milk is the platonic ideal of a creamy, lactonic scent. A creamy milk accord blends with pure white florals in the opening, before revealing a heart of vanilla bean and cacao, which is grounded by cosy skin musks, benzoin, and creamy sandalwood.
Brand: Ellis Brooklyn
Scent notes: creamy milk accord, frangipani, peony rose, vanilla bean, cocoa, benzoin resinoid, amyris, sandalwood, musk
14. Boy Smells Vanilla Era
Somewhat akin to smelling old books, Boy Smells Vanilla Era represents a dryer, more mature take on vanilla. The addition of black pepper, saffron, and frankincense lend an earthy, spicy layer to complement the subtle sweetness of vanilla, while coffee beans add a warm comforting element.
Brand: Boy Smells
Scent notes: white tulip, black pepper, frankincence, saffron, cashmere wood, iso e super, beetroot, black amber, vanilla absolute, coffee absolute, papyrus
Words by T. Angel
Feature image courtesy of Guy Bourdain